DIY Mattress

Currently I have an old version BME medium. While I can’t really fault the materials and construction, over time the comfort layers have gotten too soft for my back and I really need something more firm. When it was brand new it was awesome. My wife however would prefer something softer than the BME. So I’m looking at putting something together myself. [EDIT] I’ve owned the BME for 18 months now. It’s queen size.

I like this idea as I can replace a component as opposed to an entire mattress if there’s something I need to change in the future. Saves money and effort and should be more flexible overall.

–BME Medium–
2" 28 ild Talalay
2" 32 ild Dunlop
6" Polyfoam Core 2 lb. (Correction: It’s convoluted 6.5")

Here are some options I’m looking at:

–Base– from mattresses.net (Arizona Mattress)
7" Certipure Polyfoam 1.9 lb 31 ILD ($249)
OR
6" Dunlop 36 ILD ($500)

–Comfort– from Sedona Sleep Mattress
3" Talalay (one side 32 ILD, other side 28 ILD) ($345)

Another option on the comfort may be to contact Arizona Mattress to see if they could come up with a split comfort layer combo or I could trim two TwinXL comfort layers.

Any thoughts? Dunlop vs. Polyfoam? I’ve owned enough latex/poly core mattresses that I think I understand the ILD that should be right for me. I think the Dunlop may give better longevity although I know the base doesn’t suffer as much as comfort layers.

[EDIT] One more thought. I could just replace the comfort layer on my BME. I think I’ll try to open it up this weekend. I know the cover has a zipper. I’m not sure if the layers are glued together though.

Thanks for any input!!

Hi wrngway,

If you do decide to open up your BME, you can see if you’re able to remove the top two layers of latex (they will be attached). Many people here on the site have performed successful “mattress surgery”. If you do decide to reuse the polyfoam core, you could simply have split queen pieces of latex cut for each side - two 2" layers. And as you stated you’re familiar with ILDs that you like, it should be easy for you to create the comfort you want on each side. But I guess for now the direction in which you head will be determined by your opening up your mattress, so I’ll await the results of that before entering into hypothetical configurations.

Phoenix

So I looked at my BME and it doesn’t have a zipper like I thought it did. I’m not ready to go cutting as I may have family that might want it. The base in the BME is convoluted polyfoam (2 lb) per the video below.
[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4EdgeSldxHk [/video]

I would think a convoluted layer would be detrimental to consistency of firmness & durability, however the material is good quality. So…even though I could re-use the old base, I’m leaning towards ordering a new one.

I also called Arizona Mattress. I think Sedona Sleep is an affiliate of theirs. In any case, they’re willing to do a split queen latex topper at a good price. So here’s what I’m leaning towards:

Topper: 3" Talalay Latex Blend Split Queen (32 ild / 28 ild)
Base: 6" Dunlop Latex (36 ild)
Cover: 9" Cotton OR Wool Bamboo. I’m not sure yet.

Hi wrngway,

Yes, the polyfoam core has a convoluted surface on top to ease the transition from the upper comfort layers to the polyfoam core, and it also helps a bit with breathability. The core used in that mattress is quite durable.

What you’re considering ordering (yes, you’re correct, Sedona Sleep is affiliated with Arizona Premium and Ken Hightower) does use good quality material. The one thing I would be curious about would be your wife’s response to the 28 ILD side and the softness of that and the transition from the latex to the polyfoam core.

I’ll be interested in learning about your eventual decision and combination.

Phoenix

I was leaning towards getting the Dunlop 6" core. Based on what you say about the durability, my practical side says tear apart the BME and use that base foam before spending more. This might be better for the softer side transition to the base. I can always go back and get the Dunlop later. I’ll cut a small hole tomorrow to check that the layers aren’t glued together. YOLO?!?

BME base is 6.5" convoluted per the video. [Not sure how they measure that]

Would a 9" mattress cover be acceptable with a 3" comfort layer? That would be best if I end up getting the 6" base and makes the most sense to me.

[color=blue][EDIT] The BME mattress uses adhesive between the layers. There’s not an easy way to separate them without getting some tearing in the dunlop layer.

So I’ll likely go with a 6" 36 ild Dunlop base & 3" split queen (32 ild/28ild) blended talalay. Two 2" comfort layers would likely be $100 more although easier to fine tune later.
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Hi wrngway,

I meant Dunlop, not polyfoam. Sorry about that. Had Sedona Sleep on the brain and their polyfoam core option.

The layers are attached, which I see you confirmed later in your post when you performed “exploratory” mattress surgery :wink: . The video you embedded in your earlier post has the layers loose for ease of description. Too bad about the difficulty in separating these layers, but at least you know the mattress was built well.

That is usually measured from the bottom to the “hills” of the engineered or convoluted design.

Because of the familiarity you said you have with the ILDs you like, the thought of using two 2" layers on each side would be intriguing, because as you stated it allows for more chance to fine tune. For some people this adds a level of complexity that isn’t welcome, but in your case it might be something to consider.

Phoenix

I always like to post a follow up some time after a mattress purchase. Here’s my experience to date with Arizona Mattress. I ended up purchasing the following:

–Base-- from mattresses.net (Arizona Mattress)
6" Dunlop 36 ILD ($500)

–Comfort-- from mattresses.net (Arizona Mattress)
3" Talalay (one side 32 ILD, other side 28 ILD) ($298)

–Cover-- from mattresses.net (Arizona Mattress)
9" Bamboo Wool Zippered Cover ($269)

It all showed up in 2 heavy duty boxes and foam was vacuum packed and strapped to prevent expansion. Ordered 23 October and delivered 22 November. Assembly was straightforward after watching their videos on youtube.

The mattress didn’t need much break-in compared to other mattresses that may have been fully vacuum sealed for longer periods of time.

I ordered differing firmness for the top layer for my wife and me. You can tell a slight difference between the two. It’s nothing dramatic, but it’s noticeable. So far it’s working out great. Support is good. We’re not bottoming out at all. I’ve rotated the mattress once. Temp isn’t too warm, but I haven’t used it in the summer yet. The best part is being able to just order a replacement comfort layer if we need a change in the future.

I did also order the Queen Restora Latex Pillow. It’s a touch firmer than the cheaper latex pillows you get from JC Penney etc… It’s exactly what I was looking for. I get much better support from it.

Hi wrngway.

Thank you for taking the time to update us on the forum and for your comments, it’s great to hear that it is working out so well for you.

Phoenix

Do you know where I can find 15 inch to 18 inch matress covers? I can only find 12

Hi El1itehax0r.

Welcome to our Mattress Forum! :slight_smile:

On top of my head, one of our Members that make 15" covers/encasements is: Arizona Premium’s ,15" Bamboo - Wool Zippered Mattress Cover
You may also want to also peruse the mattress covers in the component post here.

There are many options for zippered encasements of a mattress. You can check out some of the more knowledgeable outlets like Allergy Buyers Club (or their sister site Sleep Buyers Club) are often great resources because they personally test all of their products and have good comparative descriptions of the different materials on their site.

Phoenix

Apologies for highjacking the thread, but it seems we aren’t allowed to make new topics until the redesign is complete and I think my questions are at least somewhat relevant to this thread.

[li]Is there a consolidated list of the popular latex mattress layers and corresponding ILDs? Just looking to get a base config to start experimenting.[/li]

I’m currently looking to go completely DIY and aiming for a split king set up. We are approximately 200lbs and 110lbs respectively. These are the frame and components I have compiled so far and would love help on seeing what I’m missing or what other alternatives one might suggest.
Frame: Knickerbocker Engauge - King
Foundation: Soaringheart wood slats (would a regular foundation work better with my frame choice?)
Mattress: 200lb side - XFD 3"(maybe Hard instead) + FD 3" + MD 3", ||100lb side - XFD 3" + MD 3" + MT 3". Open to suggestions on whether we should just modify the comfort layer and keep others the same as 200lb prefers firmer while 110 likes some softness but not plush.
Cover/Ticking: Was looking at the King Bamboo - Wool Zippered Mattress Cover from mattresses.net and would I then combine that with a protector such as the St. Dormeir Wool Mattress protector or is that overkill?

Is there anything I’m missing and is the 9" enough?

Hi fred33.

Welcome to our Mattress Forum! :slight_smile:

Currently this information is presented in various posts throughout the site, but your post prompted me to start some info consolidation so I’ll include here some the charts I worked on. You can also use the forum search tool for other details and matufacturers.

TALALAY

DUNLOP

Most Dunlop manufacturers list density, as this is more accurate metric for comparing than ILDs, because most Dunlop companies use a formula to predict ILD in Dunlop instead of actual measurements, which is why you can get a wide swing for ILD measurements in Dunlop. Here are a few Dunlop charts I put togheter. I’ll add more later as I have time.

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A side to side split as has the advantage that you can choose a different initial design and firmness level with different levels of comfort and/or support for each side of the mattress which can certainly be beneficial for couples that are in different weight ranges or that have different needs and preferences in a mattress. Having a side to side split also allows you to “fine tune” the comfort and/or support on each side of the mattress separately from the other side by rearranging layers or replacing a layer on one side of the mattress without affecting the other side and it also is a lot easier to assemble/disassemble a mattress using the split left and right sides, (and usually you won’t notice the seam where they meet in the middle.) There is more about the pros and cons of a split layer mattress in post #2 herepost #2 here. Also has more information about couples that have a larger weight differential

Engauge Frame is a good quality frame from Knickerbocker, less expensive, with a weight capacity of 2500 lbs, which comes with fiberglass tapered legs designer element. The slats aren’t meant to be used with the bed frame and you would certainly need a foundation.

The only way to know whether any specific mattress design or combination of layers and components is a good “match” for you in terms of comfort, firmness, and PPP with any certainty will be based on your own careful testing and/or your own personal experience when you sleep on it. It will also depend on your body type and sleeping positions as well because side sleepers may need more softness and contouring than back or prone sleepers. Having said that … you can see some general comments about the properties of an “ideal” mattress in post #4 here.
Post #14 here has more about the benefits of thicker comfort layers and thicker mattresses (most of these are in the tutorial post but I thought I’d highlight them here as well). Post #2 here has some generic guidelines for different body types and sleeping positions

When you can’t test a mattress in person then the most reliable source of guidance is always a more detailed phone conversation with a knowledgeable and experienced retailer or manufacturer that has your best interests at heart and who can help “talk you through” the specifics of their mattresses and the properties and “feel” of the materials they are using (resilience, firmness etc) and the options they have available that may be the best “match” for you based on the information you provide them, any local testing you have done or mattresses you have slept on and liked or other mattresses you are considering that they are familiar with, and the “averages” of other customers that are similar to you. They will know more about “matching” their specific mattress designs and firmness levels and the different options they have available to different body types, sleeping positions, and preferences or to other mattresses that they are familiar with than anyone else.

A good online retailer or manufacturer will generally make suggestions that they honestly believe have the best chance of success based on the information you provide them when you talk to them on the phone because this is in both your own and their best interests but once again … at the end of the day the only way to know for certain whether any specific mattress is a good match for you in terms of comfort, firmness, and PPP (or how it compares to another mattress) will be based on your own careful testing and/or your own personal experience so if you can’t test a specific mattress in person then the options you have available after a purchase to either exchange the mattress (or individual layers or components in some cases) or return the mattress for a refund (and any costs involved) would generally become a more important part of most people’s personal value equationjust in case a mattress you purchase doesn’t turn out as well as you hoped for.

It is always reccomended to use some sort of mattress pad or protector over your mattress (St…Dormeir is a good quality protector that many of our trusted members offer) Using a wool mattress pad over a mattress covering that contains some wool isn’t overkill – some people like the feel of wool , it will slightly modify the surface tension and feel of your mattress.

Designing and building your own mattress can be a lot of fun but can also be quite frustrating and involves a lot more knowledge of how different materials, layers, and components interact than many people suspect. Posts 15 - 17 here may be worth reading and I would normally recommend working closely with a manufacturer who will be able to give good advice about all the different components (option 2 in the linked post) over using your own knowledge and separate sources to build your mattress (option 3 in the linked post) but for those who want to forge ahead with their own design anyway … this will provide some options.

Good luck with your DIY!

Phoenix