Casper had a gel-infused foam topper, and then they were designing their own latex one. It was discussed in a few placed here on the forum - check this thread out. If you’re replacing your old one are you able to simply measure it to find out the thickness, or is your old one gone? You could look on the law tag to determine the foam content and whether yours was latex or not. I personally don’t have any more specifics, but maybe someone else on the forum does.
Added: I contacted Casper directly (they have a chat function on their web site in case you weren’t aware) and they stated it was 2" thick and the latex version was close to this.
Hi,
I posted a question a couple of days ago, but I wonder if it got lost among these other posts because I never received any replies. Could someone please take a look at my question from feb 6th? Thanks a lot!
Yes it seems that quite a few posts got buried in this thread that seems to have become the “catch-all” thread instead of serving the “forum help” topic and questions. For the moment I recommend that users either create a new topic in the expert dedicated sections or latch on a topic of similar interest.
This would certainly qualify for higher BMI DIY but as you seem to have multiple issues I would advise much caution in designing your own system. Building your own DIY can be rewarding but very challenging at the same time. If you chose to build a mattress out of separate components that are purchased from one or several different sources then the first place I would start is by reading option 3 in post #15 here and the posts it links to (and option #1 and #2 as well) so that you have more realistic expectations and that you are comfortable with the learning curve, uncertainty, trial and error, or in some cases the higher costs that may be involved in the DIY process. While it can certainly be a rewarding project … the best approach to a DIY mattress is a “spirit of adventure” where what you learn and the satisfaction that comes from the process itself is more important than any cost savings you may realize (which may or may not happen).
If you decide to take on the challenge then I would either use the specs (if they are available) of a mattress that you have tested and confirmed is a good match for you in terms of comfort, firmness, and PPP as a reference point or blueprint and try and “match” every layer and component in your reference mattress as closely as possible or alternatively use a “bottom-up” approach (see post #2 here).
Your high BMI also presents special challenges and generally requires firmer materials (in the support layers especially). firmer latex such as the Dunlop you mentioned or innersprings (the type of support component would be a personal preference and in the right design either could be suitable) or even a zoned construction. In mind with your multiple issues and also with having 32 BMI and being a side sleeper I would make sure to carefully go through the overall guidelines and learn what is needed to achieve the PPP (Posture and alignment, Pressure relief, and Personal preferences) along with an appropriate mattress thickness for your situation and along with using high-quality durable materials that will maintain their feel and performance for longer periods of time are the way to make the best choices. Heavier people, in general, will need firmer and thicker comfort layers and firmer support layers than those who are lighter and because no materials will last as long with much higher weights the quality and durability of the materials and components is even more important than normal. I wouldn’t “rule out” any types of mattress and base your choices on your own personal testing. Post #3 here has more information and suggestions about heavier weights that is worth reading. All in all, regardless of the materials you prefer I would make sure to use something using appropriate, firmer, and higher density foams.
Post #2 here has some generic guidelines for different body types and sleeping positions, and post #14 here has more about the benefits of thicker comfort layers and thicker mattresses (most of these are in the tutorial post but I thought I’d highlight them here as well.
Here are some general tips when choosing componentry for a DIY , or a mattress, for higher BMI ranges:
Higher BMI ranges will need more durable materials and components in a mattress and in a BMI range of 30 or higher I would include any 1.8 lb polyfoam or 4 lb memory foam as a “lower quality/density” material (relative to a higher BMI only) and minimize their use to a total of “about an inch or so or less” in the mattress.
Polyurethane foam: If your mattress is one sided then I would look for 2.0 lb per cubic foot density or higher. If the mattress is two sided then I would use a minimum density of 1.8 lbs per cubic foot or higher.
Memory foam (or gel memory foam): If your mattress is one sided then I would make sure that any memory foam is at least 5 lb per cubic foot. If the mattress is two sided then I would use a minimum density of 4 lbs per cubic foot.
A mattress needs to have deeper layers that are “firm enough” to stop the heavier parts of your body from sinking down too far and make sure you sleep with your spine and joints in good alignment and upper layers that are thick and soft enough to “allow” any pressure points such as the hips and shoulders to sink down far enough to relieve pressure points in all your sleeping positions as well but “firm enough” and “soft enough” can vary widely from person to person.
There is also more about primary or “deep” support and secondary or “surface” support and their relationship to firmness and pressure relief and the “roles” of different layers in a mattress in post #2 here and in post #4 here that may also be helpful in clarifying the difference between “support” and “pressure relief” and “feel”.
I am not very sure how much you read since visiting the site but I would recommend that before you venture into building your own DIY to start your research with the mattress shopping tutorial herepost #2 here post #13 here (there is a condensed version of it at the end of that post) which includes all the basic information, steps, and guidelines that can help you make the best possible choice … and perhaps more importantly know how and why to avoid the worst ones. Two of the most important links in the tutorial that I would especially make sure you’ve read are which has more about the different ways to choose a suitable mattress (either locally or online) that is the best “match” for you in terms of “comfort”, firmness, and PPP that can help you assess and minimize the risks of making a choice that doesn’t turn out as well as you hoped for andwhich has more about the most important parts of the “value” of a mattress purchase which can help you make more meaningful quality/value comparisons between mattresses in terms of suitability (how well he will sleep), durability (how long he will sleep well), and the overall value of a mattress compared to your other finalists based on all the parts of your personal value equation that are most important to you (including the price of course and the options you have available after a purchase if your choice doesn’t turn out as well as you hoped for).
When assessing any product or components, also be sure that you find out information listed here so you can compare the quality of the materials and components to the durability guidelines here to make sure there are no lower quality materials or weak links in a mattress that would be a cause for concern relative to the durability and useful life of a mattress before making any purchase.
I hope this gives you a good start and once you have a chance to reassess your options and decide the direction you wish to take (DIY or finding a suitable mattress) let me or any of our Expert Members know and if you have more specific questions we’ll be happy to assist you.
Good luck!
I’ve got severe fibromyalgia, which means that too much firmness from a mattress is a massive no. It’s like someone pushing your pressure points all night, which leads to absolute exhaustion the next day. 99% of mattresses feel like this to me.
Until recently I was able to lie on bed and sofa without this pain, thus getting a night’s sleep. Obviously these things wear out eventually.
Bed- 600 pocket spring king size, bought the store model in 2014, was fine to sleep on from first night until recently where it lost its’ support in the middle.
Sofa- Bought in 2012, also a pocket sprung seat, not comfortable to lie on until roughly two years after purchase. Again, now worn out.
I’ve bought the exact same model in both products, only to find that they’re too firm.
Mattress toppers don’t work for me, before anyone suggests that.
Obviously, over time and use the springs must soften to the point that they’re manageable. I saw this with the “old” sofa, and God knows how old and how many people bounced on the store model mattress before it was sold.
Unfortunately I don’t have a time machine, so can’t get someone to sit on my sofa or sleep in the bed for a year to break it in. As such, the basic question is how would I go about wearing down/weakening the springs quickly. Obviously I don’t want to break them, but having visited every mattress and furniture shop within driving distance over the past year and found everything too firm this seems like the only way forward.
I am sorry to hear about your health issues; you certainly have some difficult challenges to deal with.
Obviously the showroom model has had more use than your new product (and it could have been at a warmer room temperature which for Memory foam comfort layer(s) would have made it feel a bit softer too), and would more than likely be more representative of what your mattress would feel like after this initial “break-in” period.
You did not specify what material and how thick the comfort layer of your actual mattress is, but generally speaking no mattress can totally eliminate pressure points, however there are certain foams, specifically latex and visco-elastic memory foams, which in the appropriate plushness/thickness can be very good at assisting the distribution of your mass over a wider area and minimize pressure points.
Given your condition, I am not very sure if you can make this work, but you can certainly accelerate the loss of the “false firmness” of the new mattress by walking evenly and carefully, or crawling on your hands and knees or rolling around on it. Doing this will stretch and loosen a little the mattress cover and also break-in the foams underneath as the entire mattress gets tenderized and the materials settle. If the mattress has a zipper cover you could also consider unzipping it and leaving it open until the cover has had the chance to stretch and break-in a little.
I would also look at any layers that are in between you and the mattress or any other parts of your sleeping system besides the mattress which may be a contributing factor. This would include any mattress protector or mattress pad you are using and your sheets. In some cases, a mattress protector or sheets can create a “drum” effect which can lessen the amount your shoulders sink in just enough to cause pressure and this tends to affect the lighter parts of the body more than the heavier parts. I would also make sure that you have a rigid non-flexing foundation or support surface under the mattress (or a support system that is suitable for the mattress) to remove this as a possible cause as well (a flexing support surface under the mattress can allow heavier parts to sink in too deeply while still being firm enough to prevent the lighter parts from doing the same).
Part of the breaking-in and adjustment period is to give your body some time to get used to a new sleeping surface that is different from what it is used to (see post #3 here ). This would typically be a few weeks but it can be shorter or longer depending on the specifics of the person and the mattress (higher density materials like latex can take longer) and it can be surprising to many people how much their sleeping experience can change over the course of the first month or so.
I don’t know if you are stuck with this design, or if you have any options of adjusting, customizing or exchanging your mattress, but you may consider looking into any after purchase adjustments that are possible such as changing thickness/plushness of the comfort layers for better pressure relief and overall comfort.
I hope this gives you a few things to try and I’d be interested to learn of your progress, how much the mattress changes for you, and what you eventually decide to do.
Found my way here looking to start a thread as well to ask my question.
I have been lurking for a few weeks as I have been researching and educating myself. This is a great resource.
As you may expect, I am looking at a new mattress. In my research, latex has turned out to be my likely route and have down selected to two different manufacturers.
I am a 185 pound stomach sleeper and the wife is a 170 pound side to back sleeper.
I prefer firm, she prefers medium to medium/soft.
The first mattress we are considering are the SleepEZ 13" Organic 4-layer in a split configuration of M-T / F-T/ F-D / EF-D (left side) and S-T / M-T/ F-D / EF-D (right side). We are debating on going with the M-T for the top layer of the right side.
The second mattress is the Flexus Natural Latex 13" 4-layer split configuration as well. The configuration being M-T / M-D/ F-D / EF-D (left side) and S-T / M-D/ F-D / EF-D (right side).
Our thoughts is going with a 4-layer, it will give us the maximum options for customizing.
When comparing the SleepEZ and the Flexus, is the second layer being a Talalay worth the price differential of $350? I don’t mind the investment if will truly make a difference.
Guess I’ll join the crowd: [color=black]nowhere on my computer screen to start a new post either!
I’m looking at a mattress at Sleepworld in Asheville. Amanda sent me this info:
“The Hillbrook Eurotop is a 15” thick mattress that features an Individually Pocketed Coil Innerspring unit and is made by Paramount Sleep. The upholstery layers above the coils contain Natural Cotton, Natural Wool, Natural Latex in varying thicknesses and firmnesses. It is hand tufted with an Organic Cotton stretch knit cover and Wool Rosettes."
Then Jeff sent me this (it was in chart form but I’m not able to cut and paste):
Panel fabric:
All over organic cotton stretch knit
Tufting:
Hand Tufted with Wool Rosettes
Product architecture + coils:
Quilt -
Natural FR Rayon Fiber
Luxurious Cashmere Comfort Layer
Super Soft Convoluted Foam 1.3/15
Super Soft Convoluted Foam 1.3/15 [this is NOT a typo; it’s exactly what’s on the chart)
Quilted Zoned Latex Lumbar
Euro top -
Block of 1.5" Natural Latex
MicroCoil Comfort Layer
Upholstery -
Densified Fiber Pad
Natural Cotton Comfort Pad
Foam encasement -
HD Densified Fiber Pad
Base:
HD Densified Fiber Pad
I have read and read and read the info on this website and still feel overwhelmed! It sooo informative that I’m having trouble condensing it down and applying it to this actual mattress. It doesn’t appear to me from what I’ve read that this info is adequate for me to determine whether there is a “weak link” layer, but I’m not sure. I’d VERY much appreciate any assistance!
Nice to have you back to our Mattress Forum! Long time no see …. since 2013
You are certainly throwing many variables, unknowns, and a few health concerns in the “pot” and I would strongly advise to do a hard reset and rethink the way you approach this, both because you seem to be in a rush to be done with it which is indicating that the “spirit of adventure” is missing and because you have too many preference questions unanswered. There will be a lot of trial and error in building your own DIY and because it is not clear to you what you really want, the first thing I would do in your case is to slow down, do a bit for research and answer a few of the questions you have that only YOU can answer as only you can feel what you fell on a mattress and no “theory at a distance” that can possibly be more reliable than your own careful testing (hopefully using the testing guidelines in step 4 of the tutorial) or your own personal sleeping experience (see mattress firmness/comfort levels in post #2 here
A DIY will not necessarily save you money as it can be quite frustrating at times and involves a lot more knowledge of how different materials, layers, and components interact than many people suspect. You cannot be in a rush with a DIY as there are too many variables that you are considering at the same time and without having a firm baseline of understanding of what your real needs and preferences are (as your many question marks indicate) this can only make things confusing, blur out any clarity you may have and be less likely to be a successful project.
Caution about building your own DIY… lots of trial and error…
If you are attracted to the idea of designing and building your own DIY mattress out of separate components and a separate cover then the first place I would start is by reading option 3 in post #15 here and the posts it links to (and option #1 and #2 as well) so that you have more realistic expectations and that you are comfortable with the learning curve, uncertainty, trial and error, or in some cases the higher costs that may be involved in the DIY process. While it can certainly be a rewarding project … the best approach to a DIY mattress is a “spirit of adventure” where what you learn and the satisfaction that comes from the process itself is more important than any cost savings you may realize (which may or may not happen).
There is also more about primary or “deep” support and secondary or “surface” support and their relationship to firmness and pressure relief and the “roles” of different layers in a mattress inpost #2 here and in post #4 here that may also be helpful in clarifying the difference between “support” and “pressure relief” and “feel” that may be useful as well.
I would normally recommend working closely with a manufacturer who will be able to give good advice about all the different components (option 2 in post #15 here) over using your own knowledge and separate sources to build your mattress (option 3 in the linked above) but if you want to forge ahead with your own design anyway … this will provide some options.
Ordering layers separately and where to order would depend on the material you wanted. Local mattress manufacturers and local foam shops can often be good quality and value sources if you want to see what you are buying first or talk to someone that has the skill and knowledge to help you make good choices.
Regarding component suppliers, while not inclusive, there are some options listed here , with a few Canadian sources here . Unfortunately, I don’t keep a record of the individual component suppliers in the hundreds of lists throughout the forum or have available online, as it would be a bigger job than anyone could keep up with in a constantly changing market.
Once you have a chance to clarify some of the personal questions that only you can answer and perhaps “sketch out” a simpler design please let me or any of our Expert Members know and if you have more specific questions we’ll be happy to assist you.
I too am in the party with a query and unable to create a new thread. My question however pertains more to shipment of a mattress.
About 7 months ago, I bought a Brooklyn Bedding titan foam mattress, for which I am relatively satisfied with. Due to career related obligations, I have to move from LA → Miami. I was wondering if it was possible to vacuum compress these latex/latex alternative mattresses as demonstrated on various youtube videos. Otherwise, does anyone have any idea how to fit/transport this mattress in my little 2013 Honda Civic across the country?
Thanks so much in advance with assistance with this matter.
While you won’t be able to get the compression as much as when your mattress originally arrived (as I’m guessing you don’t have room for a $250,000 compression machine in your garage :lol: ), this video shows how I’d go about it. I’ve used this technique with much success in the past. Be sure to have some good packing tape to wrap around the product once rolled into a tube, and I would place a secondary bag over it, as air will leak back in for sure over the time you transport it so you’ll need to prevent it from reinflating in your car. A decent home vacuum can do the trick, or even better yet a shop-vac or similar. And two people work a lot better than one when taping up the rolled/compressed product.
Welcome to our Mattress Forum! and thank you for your appreciation.
I moved your post to a different thread which discusses some of the products you are considering.
With the classical “him” and “her” different preferences and combination sleeping a side-by-side split seems to be a win-win for both.
[quote] Our thoughts is going with a 4-layer, it will give us the maximum options for customizing.
When comparing the SleepEZ and the Flexus, is the second layer being a Talalay worth the price differential of $350?[/quote]
As for “worth”, while price is certainly important of course … the “value” of a particular purchase is what is most important and price is just one of many factors that can affect the “value” of a mattress purchase. There isn’t a “formula” that can be used to assess or “calculate” the value of a mattress because there are so many different variables and criteria involved that can affect the price of a mattress that can each be more or less important to some people and not to others who may have completely different criteria or definitions of “value” and only you can decide this based on your personal value equation and all parts that are most important to you (including the price of course, adjustability, and the options you have available after a purchase if your choice doesn’t turn out as well as you hoped for).
Talalay in the same ILD as Dunlop will be less dense (will weigh less than Dunlop per cubic foot of material) because it has more air in it. (Talalay vs Dunlop would be like angel food cake vs pound cake) Although they both have the same general properties they will feel slightly different, with Talalay being considered springier and with a softer overall feel than Dunlop in the same ILD… Some people like the feel of it some don’t and you have to test it and assess if this important to you. Talalay is also more expensive to produce with the natural version being more extensive than the Synthetic alternative called Styrene Butadiene Rubber (SBR) or Blended. The natural version is more difficult and lengthy to obtain and work with. Keep in mind that the Top layer is where you would notice most of the differences between the two.
For Talalay … the higher ILD’s use proportionally more latex (are denser) so the cell walls are thicker and more elastic. This in combination with the fact that higher ILD’s are usually used in the core of a mattress where there is less mechanical stress on the material means that it is probably a tossup and because of its better performance I would say the NR has better overall properties than a blend in higher ILD’s but of course also more expensive and the practical differences between them may not justify the increased cost.
Talalay is also more open-celled than Dunlop and would be more breathable and has a more consistent, even, and stronger cell structure because even though there is less latex overall … the cell walls or “struts” are thicker and more consistent. For a more in-depth look there is an interesting post by FloBeds one of our Expert Members which points to some of the “differences” between the Talalay and Dunlop, and you may wish to peruse to see if this would justify the price differential according to your personal value equation.
You can also read more about the differences between Talalay and Dunlop in Post #7 here
As you probably are already aware, both SleepEZ and Flexus Comfort are our Trusted Members here which means that I think very highly of them and that I believe that they compete well with the best in the industry in terms of their quality, value, service, knowledge, and transparency. They are extremely knowledgeable about latex and different configurations, and I would advise you to have a detailed phone conversation with either of these companies before making a purchase in order to confirm your choice of comfort layers.
I’d be interested to learn of your eventual decision
I am leaning towards the Flexus at this point. Considering the difference in pricing, I figure I can buy a Talalay layer for less than or very close to the difference in price.
However, I submitted some questions on the contact us page of their site a couple days ago and have yet to get a response. I tried calling a little while ago to talk to someone and was on hold until it went to message. Hopefully my phone message will not go unanswered like my contact us questions have.
Received a phone call back from James. I was not home, so the wife spoke with the Flexus representative. She explained what we were looking for and our profiles. He questioned why we thought we needed the 13" model agreeing that it would give us the most flexibility, but stated a 10" would work for us. If at some later point we thought we wanted more, we could buy a topper. So he essentially talked us into saving money.
The configuration we had come up, he agreed was good for us and gave us his recommendation for a 10" model.
I just placed our order. They are running a sale right now and gave us the Mattress Underground discount.
So far so good…
Thanks for the update. I am glad that your wife spoke with James and discussed your options in more depth. His suggestions and your final decision make good sense to me. (I am glad you received your discount as well)
Congratulations on your new mattress purchase! :cheer:
You certainly chose something using good quality and durable materials. As you are aware Flexus Comfort is of our Trusted Members which means that I think very highly of them and that I believe that they compete well with the best in the industry in terms of their quality, value, service, knowledge, and transparency.
I hope you have the chance to share an update when you’ve had the chance to sleep on it for a bit.
We are busy on the back end implementing the – Talk to the Experts features and while it is under construction we have temporarily eliminated “New Topics” from the General Mattress, allowing the creation of “New Topics” only from the Experts dedicated areas where you can ask our Experts directly a question. When time permits and when appropriate I will add any relevant information that may be helpful.
For now you could focus on an area of expertise that seems to be closer to what you are looking for and start a New topic here (More will become available soon)
You can also peruse and Search our forum for a topic that is relevant or close to what you are looking for and I’ll reply as soon as I have some time …
Thank you for your understanding and I or any of the Expert Members of our site will be happy to assist you.
I have been searching the topics & forum post on this site for days now. First of all, kudos for creating an awesome resource!
Now, onto my question: with the help of the files here, I narrowed down my choice to latex, or latex hybrid. Yesterday, my husband and I went to IKEA to try their latex/hybrid mattresses, since it’s the only place around me I knew would definitely have them. There are 3 models available: MATRAND) latex/poly ($), MYRBACKA) latex/unknown, and ($$) MORGONGÅVA) natural latex ($$$). All were medium/firm, but we liked the cheapest one, MATRAND, the most (page 9). What’s up with that? How can three mattresses that all supposed to be med/firm from the same company feel so different!?
My original plan was to go all latex for a mattress, but now I’m worried about buying online. The MORGONGÅVA was REALLY hard, so much so that it hurt both of our backs. The MYRBACKA was okay, but still too firm. The MATRAND was perfect for him the second he laid down, and after a couple of minutes of laying on it, it was decent for me.
IKEA being themselves, I can’t tell which type of latex it is, and am having trouble getting the specifics. I read somewhere that the MATRAND has 1.7 lb density polyfoam as the core, which worries me in terms of durability. I went into this search thinking I would either DIY with this forum’s help/using guidance from a trusted member here, or at least make an educated choice about something less customizable. After going to try the beds, I feel like know less than when I started! I am tempted to buy the IKEA bed with potentially poor(er) materials just to get it over with.
How do I tell if all latex is not for me after all? The MORGONGÅVA only had the one solid layer of natural latex-- is that the problem? Would more layers help? (I assume ‘yes,’ logically, but I feel like I’m drowning in information & possibilities). Before yesterday, I was leaning heavily towards Flexus Comfort or Latex Mattress Factory. I feel really lost!
I’m happy that the information here is helpful and is making things a bit clearer for you.
Thanks for summarizing at the end of your posting the few things to keep in mind …sometimes I have to dig across many postings to understand the larger picture for any particular poster.
You are correct that all 3 Ikea mattresses you’ve tested are rated as medium firm , but generally speaking, there are no “standard” definitions or consensus of opinions for firmness ratings even across products from the same manufacturer where accuracy is not a priority. As all layers work together, how much you’ll sink an what you feel on a specific mattress depends on your body specifics and also on the overall layer combination, including the encasement and the bedding being used and also as the thickness and softness are interrelated and this may also may alter the firmness rating as it applies to you.
The issue of firmness ratings is even more complicated as different manufacturers can rate their mattresses very differently than others so a mattress that one manufacturer rates as being a specific firmness could be rated very differently by another manufacturer. Different people can also have very different perceptions of firmness and softness compared to others as well and a mattress that feels firm for one person can feel like “medium” for someone else or even “soft” for someone else (or vice versa) depending on their body type, sleeping style, physiology, their frame of reference based on what they are used to, and their individual sensitivity and perceptions. There are also different types of firmness and softness that different people may be sensitive to that can affect how they “rate” a mattress as well (see post #15 here ) so different people can also have very different opinions on how two mattresses compare in terms of firmness and some people may rate one mattress as being firmer than another and someone else may rate them the other way around. This is all relative and very subjective and is as much an art as a science.
Martrand Latex 7" uses 5" of synthetic Dunlop latex (A forum search on Myrbacka and on Matrand (you can just click the links) will bring up more information about them (and some pictures as well)
While the Dunlop latex would be a better quality material, and the polyfoam would be “on the edge” of being better quality, I have received feedback in the past on the inconsistency and poor quality of assembly of many Ikea mattresses, so it is possible that you run into this when you tested this item. I would not rush into any purchase just because it is convenient or because you wish “to get it over with”. The way you sleep will affect the way you live and it is worth the time investment to get things right.
The most important part of the “value” of a mattress purchase is how well it matches your specific needs and preferences in terms of PPP and this can be very different for each person. Regardless of the cost or quality of a mattress … if a mattress isn’t a good match for you and you don’t sleep well on it then it would have little value to you regardless of how well any other person or group of people may sleep on it. When you are looking at a local mattress then careful and objective testing is the most reliable way to assess this.
Outside of the suitability of a mattress … the quality and durability of the materials are the next most important part of the value of a mattress purchase. If a mattress is “perfect” at first but uses lower quality materials that can soften, break down, or compress too quickly relative to the price you paid and you lose the comfort and support that was the reason you bought it in the first place then it would also have little value to you. Don’t forget that the loss of comfort and/or support is the main reason that you will need to replace a mattress and this isn’t covered by warranties (which only cover manufacturing defects). In the case of latex I would want to confirm the type and blend of the latex (unlike polyfoam or memory foam where the density is the most important “quality” spec).
The answers to your questions about ILD may be a little bit more complex and more than you would want to know at this time. Suffice to know that that ILD in latex has variance across the surface (usually measured with a 6" thick layer) differs from manufacturer to manufacturer (may be using different testing protocols) The accuracy of the rating depends on the source and their knowledge of latex foam and on whether the ILD is a real measurement or just a guess or “mistranslation” from other methods. Dunlop latex that is accurately rated as being in a certain range (it’s never a single number in reality) will also feel firmer to most people than Talalay of the same ILD range unless you only sink into the layer exactly 25%.
If you are testing a mattress locally then none of this really matters because what you feel when you test a mattress will be more important than any ILD or comfort specs although it may be more important in an online purchase if you know the specific and accurate ILD of all the layers in a mattress you have tested locally (as well as all the other information and specs that will play just as big a role in how a mattress feels as ILD) and you are looking to make an online choice that is somewhat comparable to what you have tested locally.
As far as adding more layers …In the large majority of cases … 8" - 9" of latex is easily enough to include the combination softer layers (or sometimes sections) for pressure relief and firmer layers for support that most people of average or even higher weights would need. In some cases … lighter weights or people that sleep in “flatter” sleeping positions, have slimmer less curvy body types, or who prefer a firmer mattress will do well with even 6" even though there is less “room” to design in different layers in the mattress. Thicker mattresses can also use firmer materials because thickness and softness are very related and work together. These are all good questions to ask the manufacturer or retailer of a mattress so they can discuss the differences between the different options they have available in terms that are more specific to the layers they use or options they provide.
Unfortunately there is no “magic bullet” when it comes to your own needs and preferences … “suitability” is the most important part of the “value” of a mattress purchase is and how well it matches you in terms of PPP (Posture and alignment, Pressure relief, and Personal preferences) which “translates” into how well you will sleep on the mattress. Only you can feel what you feel on a mattress or decide which one you would most likely prefer and that you believe is likely to be the best match for you based on your preferences and testing on different materials and types of mattresses (using the testing guidelines in the tutorial post) or in the case of an online purchase your more detailed conversations with an online manufacturer or retailer so they can help “talk you through” the options that may be best for you (see post #2 here) There is also more about the different ways to choose the most suitable mattress that can help you identify and minimize the risks involved with each of them in post #2 here . There would be little value in a mattress purchase where you don’t sleep well on the mattress regardless of the quality of the materials or the price of the mattress.
Outside your personal testing one best way to get a more accurate idea is to deal with better manufacturers or sources who will usually list their latex more accurately as they are much more familiar with their own mattress designs and materials than anyone else and they can use the information you provide them about your body type and sleeping positions, your preferences, your history on different mattresses, and the results of your local testing to make suggestions based on the “averages” of other customers that may be similar to you. The more accurate and detailed the information you provide them the better you will help them to help you make the best possible choices out of the options they have available. Of course the options you have available with each retailer or manufacturer (or with a particular mattress) and your ability to exchange layers or the mattress itself or use other forms of fine-tuning after your purchase or the return policy may also be an important part of your personal value equation or to offset the risk that can go with any online purchase. Both Flexus Comfort and Latex Mattress Factory along with other members of this site would qualify as “better” or more accurate sources. They are both our Trusted Members here which means that I think very highly of them and that I believe that they compete well with best in the industry in terms of their quality, value, service, knowledge, and transparency.
So hopefully this wasn’t too complex even though it’s never as simple as I and most others would want it to be.
Thank you for the quick reply! I will have to talk to some manufacturers directly. I currently have the flu, so I have been spending a LOT of time on my very uncomfortable mattress. The irony of trying to find a new mattress while being stuck on the old isn’t lost on me!
I’m definitely ready to invest in something better than IKEA! I’ve narrowed it down to three choices I found here on TMU (Latex Mattress Factory, Sedona Sleep, and Sleep EZ). I will either post again in the expert section, or call them directly. I have a phone phobia (and I sound silly right now), but maybe my husband will sit with me.
