How to... A Researcher's Guide to Mattress Wisdom

Hey Aladrieth,

Thanks for your question to Phoenix:) . Did you say what size your Serta mattress and box spring are?

Would you consider a foundation from MFC? They offer two models, a standard box spring that fits inside a metal frame or a free standing box spring that sits on top of 5" high wooden legs, both with a hardwood frame, full length center support and 3/4" thick x 4-1/4" wide slats. A queen free-standing box spring is around $539, which is well within the price range of $600 you mentioned. You can check out their foundations here. They are online shopping only but are Trusted Members on our forum, you can ask them questions from our site here. Good luck foundation shopping and let us know what choice you make.

Thanks,
Sensei

Hello:
1st off thank you for the time & effort it’s taken to put all this information on the internet & maintain this forum. Having been a list-serv admin back in the early 90’s I know how much time/trouble it can be to do so.
The mattress industry has long been a source of confusion to me since entering adulthood (the 60’s). I need help & I can’t seem to figure out how/where to post questions so starting here. If it’s wrong place please direct me to right place.
We’ve bought a Roadtrek RV & there are 2 configurations for sleeping: 2 twin benches across from each other, left is 30"x72" & right is 76"x30 or we can make a queen size bed where 2 middle cushions measure 54" by 76" and can lay 2 twin toppers side by side. Some folks make the bed up at beginning of trip but we feel we’ll like using the bench seats for eating, using laptops, watching football etc and may make up twins as often as we do the queen bed. I deal with pain on a 24 hr basis & am a poor sleeper. Hubs is a snorer & does his best using breathe strips & mouthpiece to muffle but doesn’t work very well. Mattress at home is old & needs replacing but we’re selling & moving so will deal w/it till Spring. RV has medium density foam cushions that feel very hard to me & uncomfortable. I sleep best on our couch which has latex foam cushions. I also have multiple chemical sensitivities from working around a neon plant for years. I don’t tolerate chemical smells at all.
We’re thinking of buying two latex foam toppers or Thermarest pads to use on the twin bench beds & if we want to make up the queen bed we can put them side by side.
Can you recommend to me what is the least smelly, most comfortable latex foam topper? Are latex foam toppers more comfortable then Thermarest pads? There are a gazillion brands out there & I just don’t know which to choose. I don’t want a lavender scented topper because it is probably there to offset a chemical smell. Cost is not a huge issue, would prefer to purchase a topper that will last with good care but not a $300 each product. $75-$200 each would be a good ballpark figure.
Would also like a recommendation for covers that can be removed & washed, not dry cleaned, and line-dried to keep shrinkage to a minimum.
Given these concerns can you:
1)Recommend natural, GOLS approved toppers that are made with zero chemicals so it won’t retain a chemical smell for under?
2) Recommend a topper cover that zips on which we can wash and should it be bigger then topper so topper won’t curl up on edges?
3) Should we also put a mattress pad on top of topper cover to maintain topper (and should it be bigger then topper so edges don’t curl up?)
Thank you in advance for your help. Much appreciated.
Chris

Hello iluvs2fish,

Yes, a latex topper is much more comfortable than a thermarest pad, in part due to its spongy bounce that lets you sink in a bit, in part due to the depth possibilities (compare 1/2" or even 1" thermarest pad to 3" of soft and squish) and in part due to the options of different fimnesses.

One question before I answer your specific questions, If you find that the latex cushions on your couch are the most comfortable for you, can we help you replicate those cushions? Do you know their depth and firmness, maybe an ILD number or at least a manufacturer and firmness classification (soft, medium, firm, etc.)

  1. People generally say that latex smells either like vanilla or cleaning products. Personally, I like the vanilla smell better as it is more mild. I work with two brands of latex, the Arpico latex is the vanilla smell. For interest’s sake, the Arpico latex also has the latex protein that commonly causes skin allergies removed from their formula.

While latex is GOLS certified and the end product is 96% tree sap, all foam requires “foaming agents” in order to stay a foam. Without them, the latex slab would be a flat, brittle brick.

In the end, all natural latex, whether organic or not, ends up containing the following ingredients:

Organic Latex Rubber 96%
Zinc Oxide 2%
Fatty Acid Soaps 1%
Sulfur 1%
Sodium 1%

Item 1 is pure, natural rubber harvested exclusively from the “Hevea Brasiliensis” tree, which grows primarily in South-East Asia.

Items 2 thru 5 are foaming agents that are essential to the vulcanization, foaming and curing process that all latex cores must go though. The finished core is then washed a minimum of 3 times to remove any residuals that may be left over after curing.

That said, while organic latex is not chemical free, it does not off gas and it is pretty darn close to being chemical free, which is impressive for a man made product.

Questions to consider:
a. How deep of a slab do you want?
b. How is the cushion going to be used primarily?

a. As a cushion that is going to be sat and slept on, I suggest a minimum of 3".
b. A sitter and a sleeper require different firmnesses of latex. A sleeper usually likes something softer than a sitter because their weight is dispersed throughout the latex as opposed to a sitter’s weight being contained at one point and sinking in heavily at that one spot. A sleeper could comfortably sleep on 6" of latex, 3" would be unusual, though not unheard of.
You have to choose whether you want to sit on something softer so that the cushions are comfortable to sleep OR to sleep on something firmer so that the cushions are comfortable to sit on.

  1. There are a number of us that sell zippered GOTS organic covers, we call them ticking. Some of them have wool in them, some have a top waterproof layer that zips off for washing, some are made of a thick, flexible prewashed double knit fabric.

A lot of people who make cushions will have an inner and an outer case so that the inner case contains the latex and does not have to be removed when the outer is removed for washing.

  1. Mattress pads as in mattress protectors are a personal choice. If you feel you need one and you don’t get a ticking with a waterproof layer, then they could be right for you.

One more thought. Latex needs air circulation. When you are not using the latex in the RV, it is recommended to bring it into a climate controlled place to store so that it is not stuck in a humid environment. It is a natural product and like untreated fabrics, it will deteriorate faster than necessary in an box full of condensation.

Hey iluvs2fish,

Welcome to our Mattress Forum! :slight_smile:

Thanks for your appreciation and kind words; we’ll be moving your post shortly to a more appropriate topic conversation where other consumer members would have questions similar to yours (How to… Ask a Question: chronic pain person needs help choosing RV topper etc.) .

You certainly have quite a few questions “on the pipe” and thank you for the photos and details you provided. It looks like you are looking to replace the current “medium foam density cushions that feel very hard & uncomfortable” with more comfortable layering for your cozy RV set up. I see TMU trusted member DIY Natural Bedding has offered helpful insights to your questions. They specialize in mattress DIY and custom work with natural products, including options of cutting organic latex in any needed size and shape, providing unique sleep/ support solutions for non-traditional environments such as your RV.

Just curious, you are not stating what your BMI, sleeping preferences and body configuration is for each sleeper?

Thanks,
Sensei

Hi Phoenix,

Thank you so much for your response and sharing your knowledge! Was very helpful. Due to some family crisis, I could not respond sooner and we also did not move forward with any adjustment/ changes to mattress until recently.

We finally decided to try out a pillow top to see if it will help me but i still have some soreness when sleeping on my side. The pillowtop has 1.5 “of latex N5 radium talalay with 0.5” inches top and bottom of wool & cotton casing.

I think you are right that a split firmness for each side will help us. So I am considering going back to the previous soft core we had for my side and keeping the current firmer one for my husband.

My question is: how would one know if a core is too soft? With the previous one, it was fine for sleeping for me but when sitting on it ( not the edges but in the center just when waking up , etc) it seemed too soft and I felt like I was sinking in. Is this something I will just need to get used to? My 2 yr old son sleeps on the bed sometimes so worried about anything too soft.

And I am ok with not much edge support but was just worried if the core is too soft. The store told me they have some felt firming pads for free that can be placed between the core and top layer for slightly more firmness, but it may need to be replaced every year.

My husband is too apprehensive about trying another mattress and repeating process all over again.

Your thoughts will be very appreciated and will give me some direction. Thanks again in advance!

Hi Embee,

You are most welcome! Sorry to hear about the family crisis, hopefully, all is sorted out by now. :unsure:

I am glad that you are getting closer to your desired configuration and that you decided on a side to side split configuration to accommodate your husband. The pillowtop top layer you described has good materials and there are no red flags in terms of durability.

Usually Dunlop makes a better sitting surface and Talalay a “comfier” sleeping surface so it is usually a tough call which way to go, but generally, with most foams, you will sink more when sitting then when lying down. This is because of your weight being distributed on a smaller contact area when sitting than when sleeping. Think of the depth of the imprint of high heels shoes in snow vs slippers. Unfortunately, nobody can have it both ways and the first concern is having good alignment while sleeping which is when the body regenerates and recharges.

How far you sink into a mattress when you are sitting upright has very little to do with the support of a mattress which is designed for the weight distribution of a person when they are lying down. Latex, in particular, is so point elastic that you may sink in deeper when you are sitting on it and the weight is more concentrated (the material beside the point of compression has less effect or “drag” on the material that is compressing) and yet this same soft material is also very supportive and can provide good alignment when you are lying on it. Support (the ability to bear weight without bottoming out) is a means to achieve alignment when you are on a mattress in all your sleeping positions but neutral alignment is the goal and support in each area of the body is just the means to alignment … not the goal in itself.

The core’s primary function is connected with support and keeping the body in neutral alignment and only secondarily with comfort. Alignment itself is quite complex and involves different factors. The most important is spinal alignment from top to bottom of the spine and maintaining the natural curvature of the spine however it also involves “side to side” and “rotational” alignment and the alignment of the joints all of which can have a “natural” or “neutral” position along with a “learned” position. All of these interact with the ability of a layer(s) to re-distribute weight throughout the surface of the body in each sleeping position (and there are many variations of the 3 basic positions).

Your choice of a soft pillowtop will “allow” these types of positions more easily because of the characteristics of the foam. Latex has a higher compression modulus or “sag factor” than polyfoam and also a higher resiliency (stores more energy instead of absorbing and dispersing it and “bounces back” more readily). What this means is… people who have good posture both top to bottom and side to side will be more supported in this “good posture”. Those who have a more “learned” posture (or even a natural posture or body type or weight distribution that is outside of the “norm”) may have a feeling that the latex is “pushing back” as it tries to even out the alignment in all directions as opposed to poly and memory foam that will “allow” more sagging into the material.

There is more about primary or “deep” support and secondary or “surface” support and their relationship to firmness and pressure relief and the “roles” of different layers in a mattress in post #2 here about firmness and support and in post #4 here may be helpful in clarifying the difference between mattress “support”, “pressure relief” and “feel” and it can also provide some useful insights into the reasons for pain and/or discomfort on a mattress.

Children have different support/comfort requirements than adults do. There are some links to the better forum posts Included in Post #2 here with topics about mattresses and children and includes some suggestions and guidelines and links to some good quality/value options as well.

I’d also make sure to revisit the Mattress buying personal value equation to help determine all the parts of that are most important to you.

Once you cover some of the readings I linked above you’d probably have enough information to move along in the decision process. Let us know how it goes.

Phoenix

Hi Phoenix,

After reading your responses and re-reading and browsing through the mattress buying tips, looking at the value equation, we realized we have ended up going way over our budget for the mattress and latex topper and were not too happy about it. And comparing online options, we realized there was almost a $1600 price difference. Since the topper while making it softer for me, was still not giving me enough pressure relief ( sore hips), and the differential configuration was not giving us options to fine tune it more, we finally decided to return this one to the local store and go with SleepEZ 10" CA king split all Talalay latex. Thankfully the store had graciously extended their return period for us and have a 100% money back minus delivery fees.

I really owe it to you and this forum for giving me the confidence to actually go ahead with the online purchase. I wanted all Radium Talalay since we knew what had worked / didn’t work for us but they were out of stock and only had Talalay global. So after a lot of reading on this forum, talking to sleep ez and using the insights we gained with sleeping on the mattress from the local store, I decided to order a Firm-medium-soft all Talalay 3" layer for my side and a firm-soft-soft for my husband’s side. We just received the mattress and have to give it time for the break- in of course but hoping it works out this time. The talalay global’s firmness feels different from Radium for similar ILD’s. After our first night of sleeping on it , it feels too firm for me but husband seems to like it. This time I asked my husband to check out my alignment when lying on it and he felt my hips were sinking more than shoulders but while I did not have any pain lying on my back, on my sides, I felt like I needed more pressure relief for my hips. Need to figure out of its primary support issue vs pressure relief. Also being mindful of our posture. Not sure if we have a learned posture like you had described. Though in the past we have both never had issues with mattresses- loved our foam mattress ( bought online too) until it stopped being supportive. We also realized my husband’s spine alignment is not really neutral too while lying on the side as he has really broad shoulders that don’t seem to sink in as much. He originally tried the firm-firm-soft and felt he wanted firmer, so we put the firm on too so last night he slept on firm-soft-firm and didn’t have any pain in his shoulders so far but have to give it more time. Just wanted to share this update and thank you for all the support! Will reach out if we need help fine tuning the layers this time. Would you recommend waiting until 2 weeks to do any changes?

Feeling so grateful for this forum!

Hi Embee,

Congratulations on your new mattress from Sleep EZ . :cheer:

Thank you for your detailed update and your kind words about our forum. Most importantly … I am glad that your husband enjoys"his side" of the new mattress and it looks like you are also very close to a good match for you with a solution that allows for fine-tuning :).

I am glad to hear that you’ve been working closely with SleepEZ, one of our experts trusted members at the Mattress Underground that I think very highly of and that I believe that they compete well with the best in the industry in terms of their quality, value, service, knowledge, and transparency.

I am glad that you opted for a split system with customizable firmness and the ability to swap layers. You are correct that for any new configuration you may choose it may take some time for you to adjust to your mattress and for your new mattress to adjust to you. For this reason, I would avoid the temptation to swap layers too quickly and unless it is really clear to you that a configuration does not work I would give around 2-3 weeks before changing to a new configuration.

Thank you again for your kind words and support of the TMU forum! I am interested to learn about the results of your fine-tunning and how your new mattress turns out.

Phoenix

Hi
I’m looking for a new mattress and am struggling to decide. I’m 5’4", 170 lbs, am a side and back sleeper, and am looking for a twin mattress. I’m interested in one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/LINENSPA-Inch-Innerspring-Mattress-Twin/dp/B011397784/ref=pd_ybh_a_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=86H5KQ9WKJ4W30TP9C2B

Please let me know what you think.

So I live in Salem, OR, and I’ve learned that the Flexus Comfort max rest double regular doesn’t ship here, so that’s off the list.
I’ve never tried a latex mattress before. I’m not sure whether I’ll like it or not. I’ve always slept on spring mattresses. My current mattress is sagging a lot, and causing me a lot of hip and back pain.
I’ve been reading a lot but am struggling to make up my mind.
My budget is $650. Portland is too far away for me to travel.
Thank you for any help.

Hey 282930,

Welcome to the TMU forum :slight_smile: ! Thanks for your question.

[quote]I’m looking for a new mattress and am struggling to decide. I’m 5’4", 170 lbs, am a side and back sleeper, and am looking for a twin mattress…So I live in Salem, OR, and I’ve learned that the Flexus Comfort max rest double regular doesn’t ship here, so that’s off the list.
I’ve never tried a latex mattress before. I’m not sure whether I’ll like it or not. I’ve always slept on spring mattresses. My current mattress is sagging a lot, and causing me a lot of hip and back pain.
I’ve been reading a lot but am struggling to make up my mind.
My budget is $650. Portland is too far away for me to travel.
Thank you for any help.[/quote]

For clarity, I’ve combined highlights of your two separate posts into this one, just have a few questions for you. See that you’re looking for a twin mattress, specifically one for RV use. Can you describe your current RV environment/ set up? Are you an occasional RV enthusiast or regular traveler? Also curious to know what brand your current twin is and maybe some aspects you liked about it.

Thanks,
Sensei

I’m NOT looking for an RV mattress.
I have an old spring mattress that my sister slept on when we were kids. I’m not sure of the brand. It was fine until recently, when the sagging became too much. I was diligent about flipping and rotating it.
I’m have really mostly slept on spring mattresses.

I’m looking for a spring mattress in Salem, Oregon. I’ve decided to forget about latex mattresses, because I’ve never used one and don’t know if I’d like it, and they’re more expensive.
I’d like it to be flippable. I’d also like it to be firm.
I’ve been reading this site a lot, and find it helpful and useful.
Does this one look good: https://www.morfurniture.com/product/sherwood-premier.html

@282930 - The mattress you linked to is very inexpensive, but you should note that it is recommended for youth and children. That indicates that it is not very durable and would not be a good choice for normal sized adults. Sorry but I doubt you’ll find a mattress of reasonable quality in that price range.

Is this one good?

It’s the only flippable spring mattress Ikea has.
Thank you.

I’m not really sure if the Ikea mattress is flippable. It just doesn’t specifically say that it’s not. What do you think?
Do you know of any good spring mattresses in Salem, OR? Or that ship here?
Thank you

Hi, I’m new to this forum and I’m completely unsure on what I’m doing when it comes to mattress shopping. Can anyone help me out?

I basically need a new one, Full sized, and I’ve found some intriguing sales, but I have some concerns about the brand. I also have no idea if I’m a firm mattress type either. My budget is only $300-$400 for a mattress, so…I’m not certain on which one to get at that price. The sales I’ve been looking at only showcase Springwall, which has durability/sagging issues. These are the ones I’ve been looking at:

https://www.thebrick.com/products/springwall-true-north-huron-eurotop-full-mattress-set

https://www.thebrick.com/products/springwall-pisa-eurotop-full-mattress-set

Does anyone have any experience with this brand and/or can offer insight with these mattresses?

Hi Mattress Cavern,

Welcome to our Mattress Forum! :slight_smile:

[quote]Does anyone have any experience with this brand and/or can offer insight with these mattresses?
www.thebrick.com/products/springwall-tru...op-full-mattress-set
www.thebrick.com/products/springwall-pis...op-full-mattress-set[/quote]

I recognize that you are somehow “trapped” by your very low budget but even so, I would consider my alternatives carefully. I agree that the two mattresses you listed most likely have durability/sagging issues
• True North Huron Eurotop uses continuous coils for its support layer. Which means that coils are made from one long wire. While it can have some motion transfer issues for partner sleeping it could be a decent option for those on a low budget. The Pisa Eurotop uses pocket coils instead (which are much better when it comes to motion isolation.
• The Brick does not provide any of the specifications that would allow assessing these products to determine if there any weak links in terms of durability. Huron uses gel infused foam and egg-crate-shaped soy-based foam (unknown density and thickness) The downside of convoluted foam that has “peaks and valleys” is that it is often a less durable material compared to the same type or density of material in a solid non-convoluted layer. With higher quality foams such as latex this wouldn’t be a durability issue but with lower quality/density foams such as polyfoam or memory foam that are already in the minimum density range that I would consider it certainly could be (especially in the upper layers of a mattress vs the deeper layers of a mattress). They don’t list the specs of their Pisa or Huron, nor how much or little “cheap” polyfoam on top but they should be able to give you the specs of the layers of each. If you post them here I’d be happy to give you my opinion as to which may work best for you.

Typically, the weak link of a mattress is almost always in the use of low-quality materials in the comfort layers and if you don’t know the specifics of what is inside your mattress you have no way to identify any weak links in the mattress or make meaningful comparisons with other mattresses. When assessing any product, also be sure that you find out information listed here so you can compare the quality of the materials and components to the durability guidelines here to make sure there are no lower quality materials or weak links in a mattress that would be a cause for concern relative to the durability and useful life of a mattress before making any purchase.

Generally giving into a sense of urgency because of “sales” may do more harm than good when it comes to suitability. Sales come and go and in my opinion, many of them are mostly fake and are about the illusion of saving money than they are about reality. While it’s not possible to make a blanket statement about sales because each retailer or manufacturer can be different, I would look at huge discounts as a red flag because manufacturers or retailers that sell good quality/value mattresses don’t need to negotiate or have “fake sales” to create a false sense of urgency and they generally sell good quality/value mattresses every day of the year at prices that are already very reasonable.

The first suggestion I would have is to start with the tutorial post here which has all the basic information, steps, and guidelines you will need to make the best possible choices … and know how and why to avoid the worst ones which would include the major brands such as Serta or any mattress where you aren’t able to find out the quality of the materials inside it.

While you are heavily limited by your budget, the only other advice I would give is not to be rushed into what you choose for the sake of sales and to look carefully at the suitability in terms of PPP (Posture and alignment, Pressure relief, and your Personal preferences) or how durable it will be compared to many mattresses in lower budget ranges.

I wish I could give you better news and/or guidance but unfortunately, I don’t see many options with what they offer in this price range

Phoenix

[quote=“Phoenix” post=83639]Hi Mattress Cavern,

Welcome to our Mattress Forum! :slight_smile:

[quote]Does anyone have any experience with this brand and/or can offer insight with these mattresses?
www.thebrick.com/products/springwall-tru...op-full-mattress-set
www.thebrick.com/products/springwall-pis...op-full-mattress-set[/quote]

I recognize that you are somehow “trapped” by your very low budget but even so, I would consider my alternatives carefully. I agree that the two mattresses you listed most likely have durability/sagging issues
• True North Huron Eurotop uses continuous coils for its support layer. Which means that coils are made from one long wire. While it can have some motion transfer issues for partner sleeping it could be a decent option for those on a low budget. The Pisa Eurotop uses pocket coils instead (which are much better when it comes to motion isolation.
• The Brick does not provide any of the specifications that would allow assessing these products to determine if there any weak links in terms of durability. Huron uses gel infused foam and egg-crate-shaped soy-based foam (unknown density and thickness) The downside of convoluted foam that has “peaks and valleys” is that it is often a less durable material compared to the same type or density of material in a solid non-convoluted layer. With higher quality foams such as latex this wouldn’t be a durability issue but with lower quality/density foams such as polyfoam or memory foam that are already in the minimum density range that I would consider it certainly could be (especially in the upper layers of a mattress vs the deeper layers of a mattress). They don’t list the specs of their Pisa or Huron, nor how much or little “cheap” polyfoam on top but they should be able to give you the specs of the layers of each. If you post them here I’d be happy to give you my opinion as to which may work best for you.

Typically, the weak link of a mattress is almost always in the use of low-quality materials in the comfort layers and if you don’t know the specifics of what is inside your mattress you have no way to identify any weak links in the mattress or make meaningful comparisons with other mattresses. When assessing any product, also be sure that you find out information listed here so you can compare the quality of the materials and components to the durability guidelines here to make sure there are no lower quality materials or weak links in a mattress that would be a cause for concern relative to the durability and useful life of a mattress before making any purchase.

Generally giving into a sense of urgency because of “sales” may do more harm than good when it comes to suitability. Sales come and go and in my opinion, many of them are mostly fake and are about the illusion of saving money than they are about reality. While it’s not possible to make a blanket statement about sales because each retailer or manufacturer can be different, I would look at huge discounts as a red flag because manufacturers or retailers that sell good quality/value mattresses don’t need to negotiate or have “fake sales” to create a false sense of urgency and they generally sell good quality/value mattresses every day of the year at prices that are already very reasonable.

The first suggestion I would have is to start with the tutorial post here which has all the basic information, steps, and guidelines you will need to make the best possible choices … and know how and why to avoid the worst ones which would include the major brands such as Serta or any mattress where you aren’t able to find out the quality of the materials inside it.

While you are heavily limited by your budget, the only other advice I would give is not to be rushed into what you choose for the sake of sales and to look carefully at the suitability in terms of PPP (Posture and alignment, Pressure relief, and your Personal preferences) or how durable it will be compared to many mattresses in lower budget ranges.

I wish I could give you better news and/or guidance but unfortunately, I don’t see many options with what they offer in this price range

Phoenix[/quote]

Thank you for that! I’m not sure how to find out the specifications of the mattress, as requested, but I am wary of cheap materials being used in mattresses. What would be a decent price to purchase a decent mattress at? One that will be durable? I often read up online reviews/customers’ experiences and even then, I’m not too certain about them. I dug around a bit and found something from Costco…I’m not sure if it’s decent.

https://www.costco.ca/blackstone-25.4-cm-(10-in.)-cooling-gel-memory-foam-double-mattress.product.100418500.html

Would spending $500, depending on mattress brand/materials used, if they’re decent materials, be a good purchase? I don’t want to go $600 for a mattress either.

I also found these:

https://www.thebrick.com/products/sealy-posturepedic-argent-eurotop-low-profile-full-mattress-set

https://www.thebrick.com/products/sealy-posturepedic-argent-eurotop-full-mattress-set

https://www.leons.ca/products/kingsdown-caldwell-cushion-firm-full-mattress-and-boxspring-set

https://www.leons.ca/products/sealy-fog-firm-full-mattress-and-boxspring-set?variant=16137394683950

https://www.leons.ca/products/sealy-glittering-firm-full-mattress-and-boxspring-set?variant=16349720510510

Hi Mattress Cavern.

You are correct to be wary of both “cheap materials” and “online reviews” for several reasons.
“Short-term” reviews are usually from people who review a product shortly after the purchase. While such a review can be useful for understanding how a company deals with their customers it can be very misleading when it comes to understanding if a particular mattress will be suitable for anyone else’s particular needs and preferences… Consumers who review their newly purchased mattress are almost exclusively unqualified to render an educated opinion about the product and is usually more confusing than helpful as only they can feel what they feel on the particular mattress. This is misinformation is also amplified when the “review” sites then accrue this “data” and attempt to pass it off as homologated research. However, If you can wind your way through the ads from mattress companies featured on the site (which are mixed in to appear to be part of the article), you’ll see a few tidbits of information that is accurate. I sometimes find it funny when a reviewer talks about the quality of a mattress when they have no idea about the materials that are in it. This is where the knowledge of the relative durability and the different characteristics and lifetimes of different materials can be very valuable. Even the cheapest materials can be used to make a mattress that feels amazing … it just won’t stay that way for long. How long the mattress retains the pressure relief, alignment, and feel that is “perfect” is one of the biggest issues in quality and value but is not really dealt with in the majority of reviews.

As you state that you have “no idea if I’m a firm mattress type either” and looking at the array of mattresses you’ve listed I recommend that you first do a bit of testing to determine what you like in terms of mattress type and materials … at least in the comfort/transition layer… It is not a good approach to go randomly hoping that the perfect mattress will suddenly materialize. It is rare to stumble over something that is just the price you are looking ….AND is a perfect match for you in terms of PPP ((Posture and alignment, Pressure relief, and your Personal preferences) …. AND built with durable materials (which is an indicator of how long you’ll sleep on this mattress before having to change it for something else). As you are looking at a full-size bed around a $500 CAD your options reduced but there are still some options especially if you decide on an innerspring support layer with some good foams in the comfort/transition layer which are suitable for your BMI (weight range) This is why it is so important that you find or ask for the specifications of each mattress that you are considering and find out information listed here so you can compare the quality of the materials and components to the durability guidelines here If you want something durable, I would not consider any of the mattresses for which you are not able to find those specifications.

Again depending on your needs and preferences some mattresses that quickly come to mind in Canada in your price range would be:

Love & Sleep mattress from NestBedding
This high resilience foam mattress & cover from Memory Foam Comfort

Both listings are from our Trusted Members of the site which means that I think highly of them and that I believe that they compete well with the best in the industry

There is not so straight forward way and requires some perseverance if the product specs are not listed on their website. You can certainly call the retailer hoping to speak with a knowledgeable enough assistant who is able to share that information with you. A search on our Mattress Forum can bring up many results with comments, expert discussions, or consumers who share their experience with a particular product or its specifications from a reliable source.

As far as the mattresses you’ve listed, if you can find the specifications mentioned n the links above (layer thickness, density, and IFD.ILD) for each mattress you are looking at then we can let you know if there are any red flags.

The Blackstone Costco mattress you linked is a (10") memory foam mattress made by Zinus and while you can see the layering and thickness the other meaningful specs about density and IFD are not listed. Zinus is a Chinese manufacturer that uses mostly low / mid-quality materials although they are CertiPur certified. They are most commonly sold under many brand names in big box stores and elsewhere. Whenever you see “green tea” you can assume the manufacturer is Zinus. I would also read about mattresses imported from Asia or China in post #6 with mattresses that may have been compressed for long periods of time in either shipping or storage before being purchased. A forum search on Zinus (you can just click this) will bring up more information and feedback about some of their brands and mattresses. Being sourced in China make this somewhat of a risky purchase IMO.

Generally, about the other mattresses, you listed… I would avoid the major brands or any mattress where you aren’t able to find out the quality of the materials inside it no matter what your budget range. Also testing mattresses made by major manufacturers can end up doing more to confuse than to help because no matter how they feel in a showroom … you are making a blind purchase and since you can’t feel quality or durability all that happens is that you waste a lot of time testing mattresses that aren’t worth buying but also can’t be used as a reference point or compared to other mattresses. This is the reason for the first guideline in this article which suggests avoiding them completely (and the chain stores that sell them) The only exception I would consider is if I knew the quality of all the materials and layers and they were good quality materials and value which unfortunately you aren’t likely to find.

Hopefully, the information in this reply will help point you in the right direction in your mattress search.

Phoenix

All the info you’ve provided me with is very useful. It sounds to me like every major retailer, like the Brick, Leon’s, Costco, Ikea, Sleep Country, etc. all boast about these “sales” to get consumers to purchse it in a timely manner that will boost their profit. As it is, it also seems like those stores use cheap, low-quality materials/components in their mattresses from what I’m understanding and if they don’t provide further specifications on anything then it sounds like they’re hiding the fact they’re using low quality.

Saying that, I’ve found an alternative mattress store I might try out. I think they allow the customer to customize their own mattress and at a more affordable price compared to major retailers. I think they’re a local factory direct manufacturer.

Problem is, I have no idea how I should go about customizing a mattress. My BMI, surprsingly, is 14.1.

So, saying that, I think a density foam (polyfoam) of 1.8lbs is mid-density. Is that something I should go for or something a bit heavier? With a memory foam density of 3lbs? I’m not sure which foam is higher quality over the other though. I know latex is best, but I don’t know if I can get that for $500. What would you suggest I go for in terms of layering/thickness, IFD.ILD? I just don’t know about prices because I’d need it to be around $500.