Latex Mattress Retailers near Downsview (Toronto)

[phoenix]

Hi sb,

[quote] At the store the information the younger sales person (in his twenties?) gave me is different from what I read in Mattress Underground.

1. Sales clerk says there is just a narrow range of firmness that natural latex provides. This range is in the ILD 26 range. New Dawn Mattress said basically the same thing, that natural latex comes in just one firmness.[/quote]

This appears to be a common belief in the Toronto area (and has been the subject of discussion on the forum before in other Toronto threads) but it’s completely untrue even though a wider range of latex firmness levels is less common in the Toronto area. Latex comes in firmness levels from ultra soft to ultra firm even though many of the Toronto retailers don’t use (or have access to) the full range.

2. A soy-based synthetic latex called Koosh is what provides the core-support for Foamite mattresses. Their website says Koosh is a foam - I did not read that it is a synthetic latex, but the sales clerk clearly repeated many times that it is a synthetic latex.

As far as I know … Kush is a high quality polyfoam not synthetic latex. If you look at the law tag on the mattress is will include the types of materials in a mattress based on weight and if it’s synthetic latex then the law tag wouldn’t have any other material listed. If it’s “soy based” (see post #2 here) then it’s polyfoam not latex … although some very high quality HR polyfoam materials can have many of the properties of latex.

3. Natural latex softens over time, but it takes a while - it will be ten years before it begins to soften, and it will remain usable for long after that still.

All foam materials soften over time but latex softens more slowly and to a lesser degree than most other foam materials. softer latex will also be less durable than firmer latex (you can see some of the factors involved in the relative durability and useful life of a mattress in post #4 here).

Am I misunderstanding what Mattress Underground says re: firmness options for latex mattresses? Or are the sales people simply wrong? Maybe these particular merchants only provide latex at one firmness level and that is why they say what they say. Perhaps I can try the main foamite outlet in Vaughan at a later time - they may have more expertise there.

The sales people are simply wrong … and are confusing what may be available to them from their suppliers with what is available in the industry (and from other manufacturers or retailers in the Toronto area).

While I was there I tried their 26 ILD Latex mattress (with 4" Koosh core) for about 15 minutes and later their 34 ILD mattress (again with 4" Koosh core and for 15 minutes). Then I returned to the 26 ILD for one minute. When I moved from 26 to 34 ILD I didn’t like it - the 34 was too firm, but after 15 minutes it was good. Similarly, when I returned to 26 ILD I found it too soft, I liked the firmer option better. So based on this, I’ll look for a 34 ILD - especially if it will only get softer over time.

A big part of the PPP of this mattress would be the specific design and the Koosh material not just the ILD of the latex so I would keep an open mind about the firmness levels or mattress design that works best for you and use your personal testing for PPP as the criteria or “target” rather than a single specification (out of many that can make a difference) of one mattress you have tested as your “target”. ILD by itself is only small part of a bigger picture and when you are testing a mattress in person the ILD is not nearly as important as PPP.

Phoenix

[sbsbsb]

I have some time off work, which means time to do mattress shopping. I’m a 6 foot, 165 pound individual looking for an all
latex mattress. I visited Soma and Ton Furniture (aka Dreamworks) this afternoon. I’ll be visiting more mattress places in
the next couple days. The sales person at Soma was very knowledgeable, knew his facts, and no high-pressure sales tactics. But after the visit I do have some questions.

First: I asked about ILD and he said ILD is meaningless - he said latex from different parts of the world have different levels of firmness and instead he emphasized the need for pressure-point relief. I have read on this forum that a few years ago corruption and subsequent failure of a foam supplier created difficulties for GTA mattress manufacturers and left them with very limited access to foams of different ILDs. Is this correct and does it still affect the GTA mattress industry. Could this contribute to Soma’s statement that ILD does not matter?

Second: Apparently the elasticity inherent in good-quality latex mattresses automatically provides spinal alignment; i.e., spinal alignemnt is a non-issue for Soma mattresses. The sales person again emphasized the importance of pressure-point
relief - which is especially true for side sleepers. Is this correct re: spinal alignment?

Third: Soma printed spec sheets for two different mattresses. One spec was for a basic mattress with two 3" layers of medium natural rubber and the second was for a three layer mattress (2" firm, 4" my choice, 2" soft pressure relief). The sales person repeated several times that the basic mattress might not provide the needed pressure relief for side sleepers and that a softer mattress top would be better. Is this be correct?

Fourth: Same mattresses and spec sheets as above. All Soma mattresses have wool “quilted and hand-tufted to cover”. The
basic mattress has 700g per square metre. The three layer mattress has 1225g per square metre. What is the significance of
this?

Fifth: The sales person mentioned that Soma mattresses have a density of 85 pounds per cubic foot (I hope I am quoting him
correctly), which is 10 pounds more than most manufacturers. Does this sound correct? And does it really mean that a one
foot cube of latex weighs 85 pounds? That seems to be very heavy!

Sixth: The salesperson says he has owned his mattress for 7 or 8 years and that it hasn’t lost any of its firmness in that time. But I am doubtful that anybody would notice firmness changes over that period of time …; but his claim is that their mattresses do not lose their firmness over time - partially because of the 85 pounds per cubic foot vs 75 pounds.

Soma does offer a 90 day one-time “comfort adjustment” on their mattresses … just in case the first try isn’t quite good enough.

Now for Ton Furniture (aka Dreamworks). I said I wanted an all latex mattress, but the closest they have is a soy-based 6" base and 4" latex top (thicknesses may be off). They can custom manufacture an all latex mattress for me, but that would almost double the price. The have natural wool, but I don’t recall how much and they do not specify it in their specs. Finally, their fabric is organic cotton fabric, but they also have bamboo written across the top of the mattress.

So a mattress with a 6" soy base costs about $900 less than a similar latex base, but what do I gain by going with all latex?

As always, many Thanks.

sb

[phoenix]

Hi sb,

You have some good questions so I’ll see if I can unravel some of the information for you and sort out the parts that are “mostly correct” from the parts that aren’t.

First: I asked about ILD and he said ILD is meaningless - he said latex from different parts of the world have different levels of firmness and instead he emphasized the need for pressure-point relief. I have read on this forum that a few years ago corruption and subsequent failure of a foam supplier created difficulties for GTA mattress manufacturers and left them with very limited access to foams of different ILDs. Is this correct and does it still affect the GTA mattress industry. Could this contribute to Soma’s statement that ILD does not matter?

I agree that when you are testing a mattress locally that ILD is mostly meaningless. There is much more detail about this in post #39 here and the posts it links to about focusing on specs (especially a single spec that is only part of a much bigger picture and by itself doesn’t mean much at all) vs your own personal testing and experience on a mattress.

The manufacturers and retailers in the Toronto market have access to many different suppliers and both Talalay and Dunlop are available in a wide range of firmness levels and from many different sources. While I don’t know why someone else may believe what they do or say what they say … their comments about ILD are “mostly true” regardless of the type or firmness of the latex that they have available to them.

Second: Apparently the elasticity inherent in good-quality latex mattresses automatically provides spinal alignment; i.e., spinal alignemnt is a non-issue for Soma mattresses. The sales person again emphasized the importance of pressure-point
relief - which is especially true for side sleepers. Is this correct re: spinal alignment?

IMO this isn’t correct. It’s certainly possible for some latex mattresses to be either too soft or too firm in either the comfort or support layers to provide ideal alignment. This is part of why testing for PPP (Posture and alignment, Pressure relief, and Personal preferences) is more important than the “comfort specs” of a mattress (such as ILD). While latex has a higher compression modulus (the rate that a material becomes firmer with deeper compression) than other foams which means that the odds of alignment issues or the risk of using softer/thicker comfort layers or softer support layers may be less than other materials … it is certainly still there.

Third: Soma printed spec sheets for two different mattresses. One spec was for a basic mattress with two 3" layers of medium natural rubber and the second was for a three layer mattress (2" firm, 4" my choice, 2" soft pressure relief). The sales person repeated several times that the basic mattress might not provide the needed pressure relief for side sleepers and that a softer mattress top would be better. Is this be correct?

Nobody else can feel what you feel and there are to many unknowns, variables, and personal preferences involved for anyone else to be able to predict which mattress will work best for you in terms of PPP based on specs (either yours or a mattress) or “theory at a distance” that can possibly be more reliable than your own testing or experience. Having said that … in many cases it’s true that thinner mattresses can be firmer than thicker mattresses that use layers that have a similar firmness level (ILD) and that side sleepers generally need softer and more pressure relieving comfort layers than back or stomach sleepers but there are also many other variables and “specs” involved in the feel and performance of a mattress that play just as important a role. Like ILD … layer thickness or the thickness of a mattress is just one more variable that interacts with all the others. There is more about the effect of thickness in post #14 here.

Fourth: Same mattresses and spec sheets as above. All Soma mattresses have wool “quilted and hand-tufted to cover”. The
basic mattress has 700g per square metre. The three layer mattress has 1225g per square metre. What is the significance of
this?

The amount of wool that is quilted in a cover and how it is made or quilted will affect the “feel” of a mattress and can also affect temperature regulation (wool is a great temperature regulator). More wool will will also add to the cost of a mattress but I would treat these types of specs as just “one more variable” that contributes to PPP and which mattress is the best match for you. In other words it would be a preference issue based on which mattress your testing indicated was the best match for you. There is more about wool quilting in post #6 here.

Fifth: The sales person mentioned that Soma mattresses have a density of 85 pounds per cubic foot (I hope I am quoting him
correctly), which is 10 pounds more than most manufacturers. Does this sound correct? And does it really mean that a one
foot cube of latex weighs 85 pounds? That seems to be very heavy!

No … the 85 is referring to kilograms per cubic meter. 85 kg/m3 would be about 5.3 lbs/ft3. The density of latex is a “comfort spec” and you can see some comparisons between kg/m3 and lbs/ft3, and a rough ILD range for Latex Green 100% natural Dunlop in post #2 here which you can use as a reference or to “translate” between them.

Sixth: The salesperson says he has owned his mattress for 7 or 8 years and that it hasn’t lost any of its firmness in that time. But I am doubtful that anybody would notice firmness changes over that period of time …; but his claim is that their mattresses do not lose their firmness over time - partially because of the 85 pounds per cubic foot vs 75 pounds.

Latex is the most durable of all the foam materials and will lose firmness much more slowly over time than other materials but all foam materials will soften or break down to some degree over time. With latex it just happens much more slowly. You can see an example in this video of a Dunlop latex mattress that was almost 50 years old (although I wouldn’t expect every latex mattress to maintain it’s comfort and support for that long). Firmness is also a secondary factor in durability and in most cases firmer layers will tend to be more durable than softer layers as well but this wouldn’t be a reason to choose firmer layers that weren’t as good a match for you in terms of PPP. There is more about all the variables that can affect durability and the useful life of a mattress relative to each person in post #4 here and the posts it links to.

Now for Ton Furniture (aka Dreamworks). I said I wanted an all latex mattress, but the closest they have is a soy-based 6" base and 4" latex top (thicknesses may be off). They can custom manufacture an all latex mattress for me, but that would almost double the price. The have natural wool, but I don’t recall how much and they do not specify it in their specs. Finally, their fabric is organic cotton fabric, but they also have bamboo written across the top of the mattress.

So a mattress with a 6" soy base costs about $900 less than a similar latex base, but what do I gain by going with all latex?

While I would make sure you have all the information you need about the type and quality of all the layers (see this article) so you can identify any weak links in a mattress and make more meaningful comparisons to other mattresses … assuming that the quality of the materials are good and that there are no weak links in the mattress in terms of durability then there is more about some of the pros and cons of an all latex mattress vs a latex polyfoam hybrid such as this in post #2 here.

Hope this helps

Phoenix

[sbsbsb]

I visited SleepWorks today in Vaughan, north of Toronto. As usual, the visit raised as many questions as it provided answers.

1. The owner doesn’t like wool in the quilting (says it does not stretch and instead matts). He uses Hollofil instead. Do you know anything about hollofil? I did a search on the website but it gave just three hits that just mentioned the word (one said it is good as a fire retardant, which I don’t believe is a requirement here in Canada).

2. He also said that a purely latex mattress can be compared to jello - meaning it is difficult to handle. I wonder if it could be an advantage when moving or transporting? For example, can it be “folded” or “rolled”?

3. He recommends using polyurethane as the base layer and 3.5" (or 4") latex on top. With my weight and height (6’, 165 lbs) the latex would absorb everything; i.e., the base layer would not be reached. Is it as simple as this? How long can the polyurethane be expected to last?

Other interesting bits of information:
• Legislation in Ont (or maybe Canada) requires polyurethane mattresses to contain at least 45% soya oil … this makes polyurethane organic
• In the GTA, latex in ILD 31 and 41 is all that is available
• Carpenter makes the latex foam, and was fined $500 million for price-fixing

Unfortunately the owner does not want to provide spec sheets. Said something about not wanting to bother the manufacturer for getting one.

Thanks again for your great help. I did some research and readhttps://forum.mattressunderground.com/t/back-pain-sufferer-really-need-new-mattress (#12) together with the links it contains.

sb

[magpie]

@sb

I visited SleepWorks today in Vaughan, north of Toronto. As usual, the visit raised as many questions as it provided answers.

1. The owner doesn’t like wool in the quilting (says it does not stretch and instead matts). He uses Hollofil instead. Do you know anything about hollofil?
   Unfortunately the owner does not want to provide spec sheets. Said something about not wanting to bother the manufacturer for getting one.

Hollofil has long been used to make down-alternative sleeping bags - I have one myself. Would certainly provide a nice softness to the top of the mattress but might sleep on the warm side.
This owner doesn’t sound very customer service oriented.

[phoenix]

Hi sb,

You are getting a little bit of misinformation or perhaps “partly correct” information from Sleepworks.

1. The owner doesn’t like wool in the quilting (says it does not stretch and instead matts). He uses Hollofil instead. Do you know anything about hollofil? I did a search on the website but it gave just three hits that just mentioned the word (one said it is good as a fire retardant, which I don’t believe is a requirement here in Canada).

Each manufacturer (just like any other group of people) may have their own preferences and beliefs for their own reasons but wool quilting has been used very successfully in high quality mattresses for many years and is a great quilting material for those who prefer it.

Hollofil is a trade name for a hollow synthetic polyester/Dacron fiber that is often used in sleeping bags or in jackets to replace down because it’s light and lofted and traps air which makes it very insulating. While it’s breathable and for most people it would be fine in terms of temperature … it is used mostly for its insulating ability and doesn’t absorb moisture or regulate temperature as effectively as wool.

2. He also said that a purely latex mattress can be compared to jello - meaning it is difficult to handle. I wonder if it could be an advantage when moving or transporting? For example, can it be “folded” or “rolled”?

He is right that latex is very heavy, “floppy” and can be difficult to handle and transport but of course in a mattress it’s not something that is moved very often. It can certainly bend easily and depending on the thickness can be folded or rolled or even compressed (see here). Of course all of this is more difficult with a full mattress vs individual layers but if you put it in a mattress box then with two people it can certainly be moved. For those who like latex the difficulties of moving or transporting it are a small price to pay for the feel and performance of sleeping on a latex mattress.

3. He recommends using polyurethane as the base layer and 3.5" (or 4") latex on top. With my weight and height (6’, 165 lbs) the latex would absorb everything; i.e., the base layer would not be reached. Is it as simple as this? How long can the polyurethane be expected to last?

You can see some comments about a latex/polyfoam hybrid such as he is suggesting vs an all latex mattress in post #2 here.

• Legislation in Ont (or maybe Canada) requires polyurethane mattresses to contain at least 45% soya oil … this makes polyurethane organic

I don’t know who told you this but neither one is remotely true.

• In the GTA, latex in ILD 31 and 41 is all that is available

This isn’t accurate either.

• Carpenter makes the latex foam, and was fined $500 million for price-fixing

Carpenter doesn’t make latex … they make polyurethane foams. Any latex they sell comes from another foam manufacturer. They and other foam manufacturers in Canada, the US, and Europe were involved in several price fixing legal actions but the legal proceedings are ongoing. A google search on Carpenter price fixing Canada will bring up much more information. I don’t know of any fines that have been imposed on any company that are close to the amount he mentioned.

Unfortunately the owner does not want to provide spec sheets. Said something about not wanting to bother the manufacturer for getting one.

I’m not sure what spec sheets he means but any manufacturer or retailer should be able to provide you with the information in this article. If they can’t I wouldn’t consider the mattress. For polyfoam (with or without soy polyols) you would need to know the thickness of the layers and the density of the polyfoam. For latex you would need to know the thickness of the layers and the type and blend of latex.

Phoenix

[sbsbsb]

Hi Phoenix:

Thanks for your earlier response. It seems the owner at SleepWorks is telling partial truths …; he did tell me he was in the mattress industry since 1974.

I spent a few hours today reviewing the website for Dormio (dormio.ca) in Toronto and plan to visit them on Monday. They really emphasize the breathability that wool and Latex offers. However, they also encourage purchasing a mattress protector (which they call mattress pad). But when I do further research on this site I learn that it will also compromise the breathability of the mattress (post #89 at https://forum.mattressunderground.com/t/requesting-mattress-help-in-south-florida).

This causes me to question if whether or not it is worthwhile to get a mattress protector … or maybe it would be foolish NOT to get a protector! (I don’t know)…

This leads me to a second question. One paragraph in this posting states:
“… wool puddle pads or moisture pads with felted or tightly woven or needlepunched wool to make the wool water resistant but these do best with an absorbent sheet or a fitted cotton protector above them to absorb and spread out some of the moisture and add additional protection. … These are only water resistant however (not waterproof) which for most people is fine. They are also a little thicker so they will have a little more affect on the mattress comfort layers.”

The question: Is it feasible to use this type of “wool puddle pad” instead of a wool quilting; i.e., have a latex base, then a wool puddle vs the more standard latex base, then a wool quilt, and then the “wool puddle pad”? Especially if the wool puddle pad is on the thick side?

Thanks again.

sb

[phoenix]

Hi sb,

[quote] But when I do further research on this site I learn that it will also compromise the breathability of the mattress (post #89 at www.themattressunderground.com/mattress-...mit=15&start=75#8679).

This causes me to question if whether or not it is worthwhile to get a mattress protector … or maybe it would be foolish NOT to get a protector! (I don’t know)…[/quote]

That’s only true for the “thin membrane” type of protectors but the other types are much more breathable and don’t compromise breathability and temperature regulation.

I would always buy a mattress protector for any new mattress to protect the mattress from the body fluids and oils that we release each night, to guard against accidents and spills, to help control dust mite populations, and to keep your sleeping surface in a clean and hygienic condition … not to mention to protect the warranty which can be voided with even a small stain.

[quote]The question: Is it feasible to use this type of “wool puddle pad” instead of a wool quilting; i.e., have a latex base, then a wool puddle vs the more standard latex base, then a wool quilt, and then the “wool puddle pad”? Especially if the wool puddle pad is on the thick side?[/quote].

You could certainly use a wool puddle pad with any mattress whether it has a quilted cover or a thinner stretch knit cover so it would certainly be feasible. It would really be a preference choice that would depend on which combination was the best match for you in terms of PPP. I would tend to choose each component (mattress and protector) separately though rather than trying to use one component (a protector) to replace another one (the quilting in a mattress) that is designed for a different purpose.

Phoenix

[sbsbsb]

Hi Phoenix,

I visited Dormio (Toronto) today and tested out a few of their beds - my best experience so far; although Soma Sleep is good as well. Most of Dormio’s mattresses have the wool stitched into their cotton coverings at regular intervals (every few inches). However, they omit this step in some of their mattresses. The sales person says the wool must stick to the latex mattress because he has not had reports of the wool shifting around. There is also a significant cost difference that he attributed to not stitching ($2300 to $1300). Do these two things make sense? Note that a side-benefit to no stitching is the ability to remove and launder the cotton cover.

Can you also comment on the need for airflow around a latex mattress. My current (old) spring mattress rests on a simple plywood platform with no holes. The sales person suggested I could drill some holes in the plywood to provide additional ventilation.

A different question. I know that for a given firmness, that talalay weighs less than Dunlop. Do you know how much less, approximately, in percentage terms?

I also contacted mattress.net (aka Arizona Premium Mattress Company) in Phoenix, Arizona and asked how much they would charge for a mattress. Looking at their website, they seem to have good prices.

Thanks very much!

sb

[phoenix]

Hi sb,

There is also a significant cost difference that he attributed to not stitching ($2300 to $1300). Do these two things make sense? Note that a side-benefit to no stitching is the ability to remove and launder the cotton cover.

While conventional wisdom would suggest that that wool that isn’t quilted would have a greater chance of shifting or bunching inside the mattress … this would also depend on the amount and thickness of the wool (which would also have a significant impact on the cost of the cover as well) because as they suggested thinner layers of wool would tend to “stick” to the latex. These types of issues would generally show up fairly early so if their experience indicates that they haven’t had any issues then I would take them at their word because they aren’t the kind of retailer that would say something for the sake of making a sale and then having an unhappy customer down the road.

Can you also comment on the need for airflow around a latex mattress. My current (old) spring mattress rests on a simple plywood platform with no holes. The sales person suggested I could drill some holes in the plywood to provide additional ventilation.

Airflow under a mattress can be important with any type of mattress … not just latex … but it’s really a matter of “risk management”. Latex is more breathable than other types of foam materials and it also tends to resist mold and mildew and dust mites better (see post #2 here) so the risks with a solid surface would be less with latex than with other types of mattresses and it would really depend on someone’s risk tolerance, where in the range of risk they are most comfortable, and on the other risk factors that are involved as well (see post #10 here).

A different question. I know that for a given firmness, that talalay weighs less than Dunlop. Do you know how much less, approximately, in percentage terms?

It would depend on the blend of latex as well as the firmness but post #2 here has some reference points for blended Talalay and 100% natural Dunlop that will give you some idea. Latex International also suggests here that their 100% natural Talalay is about 30% heavier than the blend.

I also contacted mattress.net (aka Arizona Premium Mattress Company) in Phoenix, Arizona and asked how much they would charge for a mattress. Looking at their website, they seem to have good prices.

I certainly agree that they make some very good quality/value mattresses

Phoenix

[sbsbsb]

Hi Phoenix,

I’m almost ready to make my final decision. But first, I need to decide on a mattress protectors. The Dormio Burlington Mattress Pad is one option with a description almost identical (word for word) to the St. Dormier protector. A much less expensive option (less than 1/4 the price) is the Bed and Bath and Beyond mattress protector: cotton terry top, breathable, stain-proof, waterproof, dustmite protection, 80% cotton/20% polyester high loop terry top, 100% polyurethane laminated backing. My primary concerns about this one are loss of breathability and the cotton is probably not organic. There is also the Dormio Secco Mattress Pad that is also 100% waterproof, Dust mite proof and breathable, but because there is a membrane, it will lose some of its breathability. Any comments? I’m leaning towards the Burlington from Dormio.

As usual, thank-you.

sb

[phoenix]

Hi sb,

Any comments?

There is more about the different types of mattress protectors and the tradeoffs involved with each type in post #89 here.

The Dormio mattress protector you are considering looks the same as the St Dormeir and may just be a rebranded version. It would certainly make a good choice if “water resistant” is OK with you and it would be more breathable and would have less effect on sleeping temperature than a protector that has a waterproof but “semi breathable” membrane.

Phoenix

[sbsbsb]

I stopped by Dormio’s Friday afternoon and purchased what they call their Euro Twin. 8" latex, medium support layer and medium above that too. Wool in the quilting, not stitched. My bed is 40" x 75". The mattress (without the wool quilting) is 39" x 74". So it will be a tight fit. The lip (or wall) around the platform is about 1" to 1.5", and I’ll probably be putting in slats from Ikea to allow air flow underneath. The slats are 1/8" or 1/4" high, so that will reduce the containing “wall” height a bit more.

But I spoke with John about it and he said latex is very “forgiving” and he does not see a problem with it. Hopefully tucking sheets and blankets in will not be a problem - especially in the winter when the blankets are thicker.

Delivery is expected in 3 to 5 weeks!

[phoenix]

Hi sb,

Congratulations on your new mattress

It sounds like you made a great choice and I also hope that there aren’t any issues with the fit but I suspect they are correct and it will be fine.

The slats are 1/8" or 1/4" high, so that will reduce the containing “wall” height a bit more.

I think that the slats would be thicker than this because a standard 1 x 3 would be 3/4 thick and their other flexible slat bases are also taller than just the thickness of the slats.

I’m looking forward to your feedback when you receive it.

Phoenix

[lifebeginsatthirtyri]

Hi sb - I’m considering a mattress from Dormio and I’m wondering what you thought of their pricing? I know it is more$$ in Canada but the ‘sale’ prices seemed high. How much room for negotiation do you think there is (or how much negotiation is expected)?

Thanks!

[sbsbsb]

Hi Phoenix,

The mattress was delivered today, but the installation came with a “surprise”. I purchased a slatted bed base from IKEA which I had intended to place on the solid plywood wooden platform the old mattress rests on - the purpose is to provide airflow. But the delivery people said it is not good enough because the air will be trapped and have nowhere to go. I had considered this previously and had brought it up with John, and my understanding after that conversation was that it would be OK; i.e., there would still be sufficient airflow in the enclosed space to avoid mold etc. Thx! The delivery people said I need to purchase a slatted bed to place the latex mattress on; placing the mattress directly on the plywood platform was OK for a very short time period, and for some reason was better than placing it on a slatted bed base. I called John and am awaiting to hear back. But your comments are also always welcome.

sb

[phoenix]

Hi sb,

I can’t see your system so I really don’t know what to suggest except to say that “more airflow” would be less risky than “less airflow”. All of this is really about risk management and “best judgement” because it’s not really possible to know how all the risk factors of any particular situation will combine together in real life over time. In many cases even a solid surface would turn out to be OK (see post #10 here).

I don’t know which bed base you purchased but if it was one of the flexible ones then it may also change the “feel” of your mattress.

I would suspect that you will probably be OK but I would talk with John and then use “best judgement”.

Phoenix

[sbsbsb]

Hi Phoenix

John ensured me that placing my slatted bed on my plywood platform was fine, so that is what I have done. I like my new mattress - I have no niggling back issues now when I get up in the morning. Having said that, there is still a possibility I’ll swap my lower medium firmness layer for a higher firmness, but I still have lots of time to make that decision.

One unexpected thing though, it does have an odour that smells a bit like a barnyard. I had called John about this and he explained they get their wool from New Zealand, and NZ has recently changed some legislation / regulations that meant they could only wash their wool two times instead of three times. He promised me the odour will eventually dissipate. Fortunately it does not bother me.

Finally, I also want to say, thank-you very much for all your assistance and for spending time to answer my many questions. I made a small donation as well. Keep up the good work!

sb

[phoenix]

Hi sb,

John ensured me that placing my slatted bed on my plywood platform was fine, so that is what I have done.

If it was the Laxeby bed base I would think it would be fine as well.

One unexpected thing though, it does have an odour that smells a bit like a barnyard. I had called John about this and he explained they get their wool from New Zealand, and NZ has recently changed some legislation / regulations that meant they could only wash their wool two times instead of three times. He promised me the odour will eventually dissipate. Fortunately it does not bother me.

This is not uncommon with natural wool at first (and not just wool from New Zealand) but as he mentioned it will dissipate to levels that won’t be noticeable.

Finally, I also want to say, thank-you very much for all your assistance and for spending time to answer my many questions. I made a small donation as well. Keep up the good work!

Thank you for the kind comments … and for the donation as well … I appreciate both of them

Phoenix

[sbsbsb]

Hi Phoenix,

My slatted bed base from Ikea is waking me up at night! Every little movement I make causes it to emit a loud squeak. Have you heard of others having this problem? A few weeks ago I discovered one of the slats had “flipped over” and when I corrected that there was much improvement, but within a couple days the squeaks returned. I looked under the mattress, but am not able to find an anomaly with how it sits on the plywood platform. Thanks for any insight you can provide.

The mattress itself is good. Although I still may switch the base layer from medium to firm.

Sam.