That’s it - thanks!
I remember seeing that exact thing, because I couldn’t tell if for a queen it was saying you needed to order two pieces, or just one of what they call “queen”. I still can’t figure that out, so if anybody knows, I’d love to hear the answer. Or, if anyone knows of the same thing, basically, for less money - I’d love to know that, too.
Thanks GW208 
@ Clawdia,
On the last line of the description it says that the queen is two 30" x 80" pieces. The price would include both pieces.
Phoenix
Thanks, Phoenix - guess I was getting confused because I was surprised it didn’t cost more than it does - the way the world works these days, I just about expected a queen size would cost double the price of a twin size.
Do you think this is something I should give serious consideration to adding to my set-up, rather than letting the mattress rest on the foundation itself? I also wondered if a thin piece of wool between the mattress and the foundation would work (or work better).
I’ve felt of the surface of the foundation, and it’s not absolutely flat - probably a deviance of 1/8th to 1/4 of an inch in places. Husband says he can barely feel anything. I’m never sure if I’m detecting something that might be problematic, or if it is my “princess and the pea” syndrome rearing its ugly head.
Then again, nothing’s absolutely flat - I realized that when I was tucking the fitted sheet under the mattress and tucking the bottom corners of my comforter under the mattress to keep them off the floor - even doing that keeps the mattress from being completely flat because there are layers of fabric tucked under around the edges and corners.
Maybe it’s just that after 60+ years of screwing up, I’m always afraid I’m going to make yet another mistake with something important.
Hi Clawdia,
If I’m not mistaken you have your mattress “in” a hard sided waterbed foundation which would somewhat restrict airflow anyway with the wooden sides so I think that the bed rug would provide better ventilation under your mattress than a layer of wool.
I doubt that this would make any difference but the bed rug would probably help to even it out somewhat as well.
I think you did well this time and with the bed rug and the mattress and other good choices you made I think you will be set for a long time
Phoenix
For once (and it sure doesn’t happen often!) you are mistaken . . . my mattress is on a foundation that was part of a soft-sided waterbed set-up, not a hard-sided enclosed box. There’s a steel frame (with center support), and on top of that is the foundation that came with the waterbed - feels like just something like plywood covered by fabric, about 5-6" in height. Airflow isn’t restricted by anything other than by the mattress sitting on a solid piece of something hard, which I figure is a thin piece of wood but don’t know and can’t seem to find online how Sensa constructs the foundation for the Laurel style bed.
All the sides are open to unrestricted airflow. Does that change your opinion that a bed rug would be of benefit?
Thanks for saying you think I’ve done well.
Hi Clawdia,
Oops … I didn’t have the chance to go back through your posts last night and I only remembered that you had a waterbed foundation.
The bed rug would lower the risk with any solid surface although with the conditions you are describing the risk of a solid surface would be lower than if your sleeping environment was higher humidity or warmer. There is more about this in post #10 here.
You probably wouldn’t have an issue either way and FWIW … I use a solid surface (our adjustable bed) because the benefits of the bed were worth the higher risk of a solid surface for us. It really depends on how much “caution” you are most comfortable with.
Phoenix
Thanks, Phoenix.
I think I’ve come to the conclusion that I just need to stop worrying so much. 
Hey everyone!
Long time lurker first time poster here. I spent a good month and a half combing through posts on this board before deciding to purchase a DreamFoam Ultimate Dreams Latex mattress. It should be here this upcoming week! I decided to spend the weekend rearranging my room and getting rid of my old mattress when I noticed a huge issue with my bed frame.
I’ve got an Ethan Allen Lotus frame. I love the look and “lowness” of the bed, but there are a whopping four support beams w/ legs under my current mattress and box spring. They run W → E, and there is 17.5" between beams 1 and 2, 20" between 2 and 3, and 17.5" again between 3 and 4. Everything I’ve read has told me this simply won’t do for a latex mattress.
I’m interested in an economical, low-profile solution. I’ve seen the Crate&Barrel bunky board but along with less than stellar reviews it doesn’t seem to be highly regarded here. I’ve seen the slatted bases and foundations mentioned in the OP but they all seem to be 8-10" tall. I think I can put a low-profile 5-5.5" box spring/foundation in my frame without it throwing off the look too much but there are so many options to choose from and very little detail to help differentiate between products. For instance, Walmart has four low-profile foundations from Simmons and they all run $127 in queen size. They each list different warranty periods (10 years, 20 years, 25 years) but other than that appear to be exactly the same. What’s the difference between the $127 queen-sized low-profile Simmons foundation from Walmart and the $450 equivalent from Crate&Barrel?
Are there any low-profile box springs/foundations that come highly recommended by members here? Maybe a slatted base that I missed (the IKEA ones don’t seem to play well in my frame) that doesn’t cost nearly the same amount as the mattress I just bought?
Hi hipzilla,
Your bed is clearly designed for use with a bunkie board or a foundation on top of the cross beams and not meant for use directly under a mattress (you can see from the pictures as well that the mattress has a foundation underneath it). I’m not sure if you purchased the total latex mattress (in which case a foundation with gaps that are no more than 3" apart and preferably less would be best) or if your mattress is one of their hybrids with polyfoam in the base layers (in which case slightly larger gaps or a wire grid foundation would be fine) but you would need a foundation or bunkie board either way.
Unfortunately they don’t provide any details about the details of the support surface or construction so it’s hard to tell if this would be suitable for your mattress. There are a couple of slatted bunkie board options in post #2 here (one is a higher cost and quality organic version and with the other I would want to confirm the distance between the slats).
I don’t know the difference between the foundations outside of the appearance and externals and some of the extra features mentioned here in the more costly Triton foundations but the basic Triton foundation would be fine if your mattress has a polyfoam base layer. The Serta Stabl Base and the Sealy Shock Abbzorber base would also work fine and can be found in many stores. There is also a 5.5" KD foundation with gaps less than 3" apart and an organic cotton cover here.
Phoenix
I’m going to build a base for my BB Cool luxe but have a few questions before I begin. My main purpose of building my own is to keep cost low.
I am fully confident in my carpentry skills that I can build it but my knowledge of lumber is lacking. I know oak is strongest but would obviously be quite expensive and overkill for this project but I don’t want something too soft that will sag overtime.
My plan is use 2x10 for the outer frame (i like a high bed) and regular 2x4’s for frame support with 3" spaced slats across the top. I’ve read a lot that the slats are usually pine? Is that correct and if so why is this? I think moisture levels in the wood would also be a factor especially for the slats since the minimum 3" spacing is for ventilation. I saw one DIY foundation used 1/2" MDF cut into strips. Would this be sufficiently strong enough and cheaper than buying pre cut slats?
I’m going to put a fabric of some sort around the outside to cover the 2x10 frame for cosmetic purposes, but I’m wondering if I should cover the top too to keep any rough edges from snagging on the mattress? The only reason I’m not playing on the side of “better safe than sorry” is I wonder about air flow. Will covering the top restrict the air flow and negate the 3" gaps?
Hi Lucky8926,
Hopefully some of the forum members with better carpentry skills and knowledge than I have can provide some guidance and insight.
Outside of the two links in the foundation thread from the members here who provided instructions for their DIY projects … post #2 here and post #5 here and post #4 here may have some helpful information and links.
I’m certainly interested in seeing your final design and hopefully some pictures as well.
Phoenix
I got all the lumber and other pieces. Price came to $99 Here is what I got, i’ll try and do a full write up with pics tomorrow. This is for a King by the way
Two 2"x10"x14’ (Will be cut to length and be used for frame)
Two 2"x4"x14’ and one in 8’ length (will be cut to length and be used for head to toe support inside frame)
16 pine slats which are 2.5"x1"x8’ (will be cut to length and be used for side to side support on top of 2x4’s)
Six 2x4 hangers (used to attach 2x4’s to 2x10 outer frame)
Four corner brackets (used to connect 2x10 frame pieces)
1 lb. box of 1.5" screws
Hi Lucky8926,
I switched the last 3 posts to a new thread so all the information is in one place and I can link it in the foundation post when you’ve had the chance to build it and share the information and pictures of your design.
Thanks again for sharing your efforts
Phoenix
I think I see where you are going with this…
It looks to be Queen or King size, so it could be heavy and awkward at those dimensions with 2x material. You may need triangular bracing to stiffen it and to keep it from racking.
Will it sit on the floor or in a bed frame or will you have legs for elevation? Attaching legs can be a challenge, but less so with 2x material. I suggest a mattress height of 25-28".
I would have chosen wider slats, say 1x6, as they would be individually stronger, less likely to distort, allow more fasteners at each end, and just 11 gaps is plenty of ventilation.
I would cover it with fabric to hide and soften it’s presence and to avoid any pine sap.
Congrats on doing it yourself!
zzz
Sleeping, thank you for the critique.
It’s a king size, but I’m not worried about heavy or awkward, it’s a mattress foundation not something I will be lugging around with me everywhere.
It will sit in a bed frame with headboard and footboard that have also been supported witun2x4 “legs” in spots that there is a longer span to help support and stiffen things up.
Wider slats aren’t necessary for strength since there are also 3 2x4’s running head to toe for support. 11" gaps are way too wide. Everyone including the mattress manufacturer recommends no more than 3" gaps. Total mattress height will be about 28".
I plan on getting a sham of some sort to cover it for appearance and protection (as mentioned in 1st post) a sham will have thinner breathable material on top with thicker on the sides which will work out perfect.
I’ll try and get pictures and small instructional on here today or tomorrow.
Agreed, 11" gaps are too wide. I meant 11 gaps… 12 1x6s in 80" will give you 11 gaps at ~1.25" per gap.
zzz
I got all the pics loaded on my computer, now just have to get the narrative written down and get it all posted here.
Ok, here is my King size foundation/base build with pictures. The material list is above. I used framing hardware such as corner brackets and 2x4 supports which is probably overkill for this, but I wanted to ensure it was build sturdy. The brackets are inexpensive and are more reliable than just using screws to attach all the frame pieces. One thing though, you will probably have to make the holes in the brackets bigger to accommodate screws. these are usually held in place by nails when framing up wall, decks, etc. I just picked a drill bit big that was about the same size as the diameter of the screws. You don’t have to do all of the holes, as you will see below I only used 3 screws on each side of the corner bracket. That is more than enough to keep everything in place.
I started out by measuring from foot board to headboard and subtracted about an inch to have some wiggle room when I put the base in place and cut the side pieces to this length. Next I used a router to cut about an inch wide groove in the top of the side rails just deep enough so the slats would lay flush across the top. (this took some trail and error to get the right depth)
If you don’t have a router, you could just lay them on top of the 2x10 but I’m a little OCD and this would’ve bothered me even though I would never see it… LOL
The I put both side rails in place and held them with a clamp and got my side to side measurement, once again subtracting a little bit for some wiggle room and cut the head and foot pieces to length. Once I had all 4 of the 2x10’s cut I put them together using corner brackets. These brackets aren’t usually a perfect 90 degrees so you have to bend them a little to keep the frame square, I suggest using a speed square or L square.
Once all 4 sides were together I cut the slats to length. I used a 3" piece of wood as a spacer to speed up the process of getting them set in at 3" spacing.
I opted for using my air nailer over screws to keep the slats in place because it’s a lot quicker, and you don’t really need a strong connection for them anyway. It’s just to keep them from sliding back and forth.
Once all the slats were nailed in place I flipped the base over to attach the 2x4’s that ran head to toe. I used 2x4 framing brackets to attach them for added strength. Measure the distance inside the head/foot 2x10 and cut to length (The Brackets extend down the length of the 2x4 so they don’t have to have a tight fit.) I spaced the 2x4’s like so; one in the middle, then put one on each side of the middle one splitting the difference. Also check for a “crown” or bow in the 2x4, If it has one make the bow side up so when weight is applied to the frame when it’s all done it won’t sag. When you attach the brackets make sure you put some pressure down on the 2x4 to ensure its right up against the slats so there isn’t any sag. Also remember, the frame is upside down so you have to install the brackets upside down too (see picture below) I didn’t worry about putting any screws in the sides of the bracket to attach them to the 2x4. It will be wedged between the bracket and the slats so it isn’t going anywhere.
When that was done, I flipped it up on it’s side and put nails in the slats where they went accross the 2x4’s. Not necessary, but once again my OCD felt the need to do it. Finish nails are cheap anyway…
In place sitting in my bed frame
I did add 4 small pieces of cut 2x4 in in the middle of the head/foot board and on both sides because of the weight and the long span. Is it necessary, or just more overkill on my part? I’m not sure but I didn’t want to take any chances of the side boards breaking. You can barely see one of the them in the pic above, in between the 4th & 5th slat on the left side. You can see them, once the mattress is on but I’m going to stain it to match the bed frame to help blend in. I would rather be safe than sorry…
I would say from first cut until last nail it took me an hour & half to 2 hours. Biggest pain was getting it square in the very beginning, but it’s also the most important. Hope this helps, and if you’re at all handy and have the right tools, I would suggest building versus buying your own. Most places I saw wanted $200-$500 for King foundations and I guarantee this is much more strong and reliable and only cost about $100.
Hi Lucky8926,
Wow … thanks for sharing your foundation design and instructions. It looks to me like it’s built like a tank
I have a couple of questions that aren’t clear (at least to me) from the pictures.
In the last picture “sitting in the bedframe” I can’t make out what the foundation is sitting on. It looks like there are the 2x4 legs that you cut under the foundation side rail on the left side (facing the picture) but that the right side rail is resting on the floor (I can’t see any legs under it). I also can’t see how you attached the foundation to the headboard and footboard to hold it off the ground and bear the weight of the foundation and mattress.
With the design you used with three 2x4’s on edge in the center I doubt that you would ever see any sagging in the foundation but some mattress warranties specify that they require two legs in the center of a frame down to the floor in a queen and king size to meet the warranty criteria so in case that ever became an issue it may be worth adding two legs under the center 2x4.
If you could add a picture to clarify what it’s sitting on and how it’s attached to the headboard and footboard it would be great.
Thanks again for sharing your design, instructions, and pictures
Phoenix
The bed itself is a headboard, footboard, and 2 side rails. The foundation sits inside the bd frame. It rests on rails that are attached to the side rails of the bed itself.
As for center support, there are four 2x4 “legs” under the center 2x4. One at the head, one at the foot and 2 halfway between them making 4 total center supports, plus the 2 under the side rails.
I’ll try and get some pictures tomorrow.
