Hopefully you’ve read the mattress shopping tutorial here which has all the basic information, steps, and guidelines that can help you with how to make the best possible choice … and know how and why to avoid the worst ones.
There is more about the most important parts of the “value” of a mattress purchase in post #13 here and the posts it links to that can help you make meaningful comparisons between mattresses.
Only your own careful testing and experience can know whether any mattress is a good match for you in terms of PPP (Posture and alignment, Pressure relief, and Personal preferences) but outside of PPP a mattress is only as good as the type and quality of the materials inside it regardless of the name of the manufacturer that makes it so I would need to know what is inside the mattress to make any meaningful comments about it.
If you can find out the information in this article about the type and quality of all the materials in your mattress and post it on the forum I’d certainly be happy to let you know whether I can see any obvious weak links in the mattress or make some comments about the materials and components inside it that may be helpful.
If you do choose to include other manufacturers or retailers in your research then the better options and possibilities I’m aware of in and around the San Diego area are listed in post #2 here.
I put together the KD foundation from mattress.net that was listed in the OP of this thread. I wanted to save some money on the foundation as well as the metal bed frame since I spent a lot on my latex mattress.
All the wood appeared to be in very good shape and pretty good quality, no instructions where included in the box but I knew the website had them on there. The wood had letters and words on them to easily match up to the proper pieces so that also helped. The version I received only had one bolt for each “piece” as apposed to their website that shows two bolts per piece.
As their website suggested, I tried drilling a sheet rock screw into the slats to secure them but the wood started to split, so don’t do this without pre-drilling holes. I should have known better but I really didn’t feel like pre-drilling all those slats, needless to say that one slat is the only one I used a screw on.
The slats where almost all perfectly aligned, there were one or two that needed to be re-adjusted so the gap was less than 3". Also, one slat had ripped from the cloth that holds them together, but I just used my staple gun to re-apply.
The absolute worst part of this foundation is putting on the cover!!! It took me forever to get the cover on, it was a little too small for the framing. I finally got it down almost all the way to get a little bit under the foundation but not enough to staple it. I guess it will stretch a bit over time and then maybe I can pull it down some more, but I was too exhausted and wasted too much time trying to pull it down even more.
So far after one night the foundation seems fine, I did not notice any noise/creaking coming from the foundation, hopefully that will be the case for a very long time.
Thanks for the feedback on the Mattresses.net KD foundation … I appreciate it :).
I noticed that the description mentioned only 6 carriage bolts but the pictures show 2 at each corner so thanks for clarifying that the description is the correct version.
If your bed is made of wood and has a head board, foot board, and side rails, can you just screw slats onto the side rails? All of our beds have wood running length-wise along the side rails (inside the frame) where slats (or a box spring) can rest. With our current conventional mattress, we have wood slats supporting a conventional box spring. When we (after FINALLY figuring all of this stuff out!) get our latex mattress, I wonder if we could just use the above method? I realize from reading here and there that with our queen, we’d need to have some center support to the floor but our kids’ twin beds should be okay with just horizontal slats and no center support, right?
If I’m understanding you correctly then if the slats are screwed to and resting on the ledge inside the side rails and you end up with a strong, flat, and evenly supportive surface where the gaps between the slats are 3" or less and there is little to no flex in the slats and you have good center support to the floor (in larger sizes) then it would be suitable for a latex mattress yes.
There are also some suggestions that may be helpful to add strength and center support if your bedframe doesn’t have it in post #5 here and the other information it links to.
Post #5 in that thread is VERY helpful; thank you. I really like the idea of the T-slats. Would we still need to use center support to the floor if we used T-slats?
There are a few issues that I would consider here and since I’m not an engineer that knows how to figure out the effect on all the load bearing points my comments are more speculation than fact.
I think that there would be no issues with the slats bending with T-Slats so from the perspective of performance and having a rigid non flexing support surface you would probably be fine.
Having said that … it would put more stress on the outside edges of the slats that were resting on the support ledge because there would only be two load bearing points on each slat rather than three so I would make sure that if the span was that large that you used a strong wood with a high bending strength (see here) and that the ledges that are attached to the side rails are also strong and secure so that the additional weight doesn’t tear them out of the side rails over time or crack or break the outside edges of the slats (which I don’t think is likely but could be possible).
The other issue you may have would be with the mattress warranty. Many manufacturers have a warranty that requires a center beam with good support to the floor (generally one leg for queen and two for king) so I would make sure you check with the manufacturer of the mattress you purchase to make sure that your support system fits their warranty criteria.
But I would love to hear some other suggestions. I wish I could make time to get down to ikea and get another platform bed. I guess that is an option as well.
Maybe something like this Products - IKEA - but Ikea slats kinda pissed me off last time.
Thanks for the suggestions!
Also if you have any advice on a new mattress in the casper price range that you think would be good for a stomach/side sleeper who is getting lower back pain early in the morning with a tuft and needle I’d love to hear it !
If you do decide to choose a Casper mattress you can see their guidelines for a bedframe or foundation here.
You will need either a steel or wooden bedframe and a foundation, or a combination of both such as a platform bed that has a suitable support surface, or a combination metal bedframe/foundation.
This would be fine for a foundation.
I would tend to use a better quality steel bedframe that has 1.5" angle iron (see post #2 here) and I would also tend to choose a bedframe that has center support that goes from head to foot if your foundation has a center beam that goes from head to foot as well (which the Triton does) so that the load bearing points are stronger.
The Casper foundation page suggests that the gaps in this foundation are further apart than their recommended 3" and they suggest using a piece of plywood on top of this although that’s not something I would do myself (see post #10 here) and I would use something like the bed rug instead to provide better ventilation. If you are looking at this type of combination steel platform / bedframe then I would also tend to choose one that has more longitudinal wires to provide better support for the mattress with smaller gaps between the wires (see post #10 here).
I would also keep in mind that a foundation isn’t designed to make a mattress “more comfortable” but to support the mattress with a flat, strong, non flexing, and evenly supportive surface that has the least possible effect on the feel and performance of the mattress.
Ikea doesn’t seem to sell any non flexing slat systems any longer … only slat systems that flex such as the Luroy and the Lonset which wouldn’t be my first choice for a foam mattress. They also don’t have center support legs which are a warranty requirement for some manufacturers although Casper mentions them on their foundation page so I would assume that they are OK with the Ikea bedframe.
I have a tuft & Needle now and its been giving me a very stiff back in the morning when I wake up. Its been about 3 weeks so I am not sure it will get better. I loved the company and was very impressed with their bed and communication. Perhaps it is me because I recently had surgery to fix a labral tear. That is getting better now and I would be all set if I could get a bed that would give me a good night sleep. I am a stomach sleeper. My old pillow top traditional spring mattress gave me the same stiff back but that was somewhere like 10+ years old. I am ready for change. Hopefully the Casper works and if not it is on to the dream foam.
Thanks so much for this site. Spent a few sleepless nights devouring all the great info on here
I’m not familiar with the Brentwood but if it’s similar to the Simple Life then all of them would be fine for most foam mattresses. If the mattress was thinner then you may feel the slats or wire bars through the mattress but this wouldn’t likely be an issue if you are purchasing the Casper.
They can give you something to prop up against with pillows if you sit up in bed (they can be more padded than a wall), they can prevent a gap between the bed and a wall from “swallowing” pillows, and they may have some functions such as shelving or lights that some people may find useful, but they are mostly for decoration and visual appeal. .
You can see my general comments about “wire grid” types of foundations in post #10 here.
The distance between the wires in the one you linked is a little more than some of the others that are listed in the foundation post I linked previously so there would be a little higher risk with some mattresses of feeling the wires or the mattress sinking into the gaps but in general terms it would be fine.
There are also some lower budget versions in the same post such as this one from Walmart and they also have a great return policy if it doesn’t work well with your mattress.
Hi Phoenix,
I have read a great portion of the Read First Forum and now I am on to this one. A friend/coworker referred me to this site as it helped him immensely.
First off, I want to apologize if this has already been answered and with 24 pages I’m sure there is a chance it has been.
My wife and I have been looking at Memory Foam mattresses. We have gone to a few sleepy’s and tried out the tempurpedic versions. However after consideration, we simply cannot afford the hefty price tag on them.
My coworker recommended I look through the forum like he did. I have decided that Dream Foam is the direction I am going to go in. I have narrowed it down to either the 12" Supreme or the 13" Ultimate Dreams model.
I am 5’ 11" 205-210lbs side/back sleeper, wife 5’ 6" 135lbs back/side sleeper.
We both liked the cloud luxe at the store as well as the Cloud Supreme. My concern is that as I’ve read through the forum people say these mattresses get even softer as you sleep on them. If that’s the case I think the Supreme would be my better buy as the Luxe is already very soft(we like it now but any softer and when we are on our side we don’t think we’ll have the support). If the Supreme gets a tad softer as we use I think it will be perfect. Thoughts?
Next is the actual question (sorry I got side tracked): We have a queen set with a headboard that matches our whole bedroom set. The frame is the traditional metal style and has a horizontal support beam though the middle with one supporting leg(it is not vertical down the middle which I know is probably ideal). Is there a wooden slat foundation that I can put onto this frame? We like the height of our current bed and don’t want to lose our headboard. Is the Sears one you listed in the beginning of this thread compatible with the frame I have and will it suit the mattress well? Any input on wooden slatted bases would be appreciated.
All mattresses will gradually get softer over time and this will happen faster with higher weights and lower quality and less durable materials. Most people will also have a range of mattresses that are suitable for them in terms of PPP (Posture and alignment, Pressure relief, and Personal preferences) but if you choose a mattress that is “on the edge” of being too soft in terms or support/alignment then even a small amount of foam softening can put you outside the range of a mattress that is suitable for you and it can take much less time before you cross the thresholds between sleeping well on a mattress to sleeping OK to tolerating a mattress to finally deciding to replace it. It’s usually best to choose a mattress that is the best match for you in terms of PPP because how well you sleep is the most important part of the “value” of a mattress purchase but if two mattresses seem to be equal in terms of PPP then I would choose the firmer one because it will generally be less risky in terms of alignment and would generally have a longer useful life than a mattress that used the same quality materials but was softer.
Yes … the Nature’s Sleep foundation that is listed in the foundation post would be fine for this mattress and frame although it won’t be quite as strong as wooden slat foundations that have a narrower gap between the slats. As you mentioned the load bearing points between the frame and the foundation also aren’t ideal but they would be “OK”. If you wanted a stronger support system you could also replace just your steel bedframe with one that has a longitudinal center support and more center support legs that would let you use the same headboard.
Thank you for your response! Since both beds seem to offer me the PPP I am looking for I think we will go with the Supreme. As for a base I am glad the Nature’s Rest will be suitable. Over time if I can find a reaosonably priced frame with the vertical center support bar I will purchase. I have just seen quite a few posts stating that for a queen size mattress my current one would work as well and not damage the bed.
Now to decide if we will get the bed now or wait until Santa Clause brings it.
If he is paying for it … I would vote for Santa. Otherwise an early Christmas present from a kindly “pseudo Santa” would let you sleep a little better a little bit sooner
I’ve been debating between a dreamfoam UD and Casper Sleep and decided to try out the Casper since it’s virtually risk-free (while DF seems to have a $99 restocking fee).
You mentioned in post #342 here that a bed rug can provide better ventilation, but I’ve never seen or heard of one of these before. Are there drawbacks to using one of these instead of a foundation, or are they to be used in conjunction with a foundation to add more ventilation?
For the frame, I’m thinking of using the Serta Stabl-base 4059BR. I’m a little worried about the bed rolling around, but can these types of frames be just as stable if you lock the rollers?
The bed rug can be used to add ventilation under the mattress if you have your mattress on a solid surface (such as a solid surface platform bed or the floor), or to help even out the support for a platform bed or foundation where the gaps between wooden slats or the spaces in between the wires (in the case of a wire grid support surface) are a little too far apart to provide suitable support for your mattress.
The bedrug is thin so the drawback in using them by themselves on the floor (you couldn’t use them on a steel bedframe to replace a foundation) would be that they don’t provide the height you may prefer for your sleeping surface.
The bedframe you are considering would be fine in terms of strength. If you are using it on a carpeted floor I would tend to use the version that has the rollers but if are using it on a non carpeted floor I would tend to use the regular glides (which are the ones that are shown in the page you linked).
