I never thought a mattress forum would exist.This site is more informative than car dealer site.lol
If you spent 1/3 of your life in bed,I guess you should get it right!
Thanks Phoenix. I’ll use my solid surface foundation for now - maybe with the Ikea slats - until I can get a new bed frame setup.
Have a great day! 
firtree
Wow, what a great site. I’ve been driving myself nuts deciding about a mattress. I’m 90% certain to go with all-natural latex after sleeping on a futon mattress for the last three years … and thanks to a nice tax refund.
In any case, I just got a solid wood, Japanese-style queen platform frame and headboard–low profile, so I’m not keen on a mattress that sits up too high. There are 18 well-finished hardwood slats, 2" apart. According to this thread I should have no problem placing a latex mattress directly upon the slats. I have two questions, though. First, will the bottom of the mattress be well enough protected? Second, will the fitted bottom sheet be okay at the corners rubbing on the slats?
As to the first question, one retailer told me not having a foundation, or at least a bunky board, would reduce or void the warranty. Should this be a concern?
… Just saw Julia’s post above and have the same issue … a 2" rim from slats to top of bed frame–so I guess my options are to set the mattress 1) directly on slats, 2) on a slatted bunky board, or 3) on a mattress rug. Any preferences?
Hi pvanheuklom,
Yes … this would work very well.
The mattress is covered with a ticking that is meant to be durable so this would be fine yes. If the wood wasn’t finished and was rough I would consider using a layer of fabric to protect the mattress from any splintering of the wood but I doubt that this would be an issue in your case.
I would make the same comments about the sheets as well but if the slats were smooth and finished then it wouldn’t be a concern for me.
It sounds to me like they were trying to sell you something that you don’t need. There are some mattress manufacturers that specify the use of their own foundations for warranty coverage but the vast majority specify a “suitable” foundation. If your bed has non flexing hardwood slats that are that close together and there is a center rail in the bed with support down to the floor then it would certainly be “suitable” and probably more suitable than most of the foundations or bunkie boards that are sold with mattresses. The final “authority” would be the mattress manufacturer themselves but I doubt that the information they were telling you is accurate. It certainly wouldn’t be a concern at all in performance terms.
Given the description of the bed you provided I would tend to set the mattress directly on the slats because I don’t think the other options are necessary (except to add height to the sleeping surface as a preference).
Phoenix
Thanks. There is in fact a center rail with floor support in the middle. Think I’ll go for the direct slat option to keep my low-profile zen aesthetic.
Haven’t had much in Springfield, IL by way of all-latex to test, but I’m gaining confidence (thanks in large part to this site) to order online. I’ve narrowed my choices to Arizona Mattress, Rocky Mountain Mattress and Sleepez–all of which seem to have pretty good February deals going on. With the 5% Mattress Underground discount, all three have a similar mattress (6" base, 2" comfort layer) within about a $140 range of each other–though only two include pillows. Here’s what I’m looking at:
Option 1
blended talalay 2" (med)
blended talalay 6"
Option 2
natural talalay 2" (med)
? dunlop 6"
Option 3
blended talalay 2" (med)
natural dunlop 6"
Any thoughts? Oh, I’m 5’ 8", 190 lbs, mostly a side sleeper who tosses and turns a lot and wakes up most mornings half crippled. I understand that blended is more durable than natural, and so option 1 perhaps looks best on this basis alone. Option 3 is the cheapest (but only by less than $100). Probably obsessing a bit, but after three years on a futon mattress and the need to get this right, I want to make sure I’m not missing anything. Of course, I’ll call the three manufacturers above, but want to be better prepared when I do … just as soon as that tax return shows up.
Thanks so much for your patience and knowledge.
Paul
Hi pvanheuklom,
Once you have eliminated all the worst choices and are making choices between good and good (and all of these are “best in the country” value) then it’s time for me to step out of the way because there aren’t any more 'better or worse" choices any more and deciding on which one has the objective, subjective, and intangible preferences that best matches your own “personal value equation” is the only way to decide between them.
I would of course make sure that you have talked with each of them so that you are choosing between “final choices” at each one and then one by one make all the difficult choices and tradeoffs that are part of the differences between each mattress and the options offered by each manufacturer that are most important to you.
A few comments that may help …
This is true in the lower ILD’s of Talalay but once you are in the mid 20’s or so then the difference between them would be greatly diminished and with Dunlop it’s the other way around. You can read a little more about all the different types of latex in this article and in post #6 here. Each of these has a different “feel” but they are both high quality materials and the choice would be a preference rather than a “better worse” one.
Post #14 here has some of the options available in and around the Springfield, IL area and some of these carry all latex or mostly latex mattresses that may be useful for local testing to help you narrow down your choices.
Because of all the variables involved and because there is no “formula” that can turn height, weight, and sleeping position information into a specific recommendation that can take into account all the possible differences between people … the “best” way to decide on the combination of materials and layering that may work best for you is either through personal testing or by using the specific suggestions of each manufacturer (which may differ from each other because of differences in their materials, components, options, or designs) based on the “averages” of people that have similar body types and sleeping styles.
I’m looking forward to hearing about what you decide on.
Phoenix
Thanks for the posting this information and making my life much easier. It is exactly, what I am looking for!
Hi jamusued,
You’re very welcome … I’m glad it could help you
Phoenix
Hi,
I would like to put a 10 inch 100% Natural Talalay 3-layer mattress on a vertical Murphy bed, but have been told that it would slump. Has anyone had any experience with this? Could tabs be sewn into the mattress cover at the top and sides which snap onto the frame to prevent slumping, in addition to the straps across the across the mattress face that are part of the original Murphy bed system?
Also, does anyone have any experience with buying a “Next Bed” (a metal frame Murphy bed requiring assembly) from either wallbedsbywilding.com or murphybeds.com. The advertised beds appear similar, but the later is $80 more expensive, charges shipping, and has a 5-year guarantee instead of a lifetime one.
Thanks,
Bob
Hi bob.hawk,
While I don’t have any direct experience with this combination I have talked with a few wallbed (murphybed) manufacturers and latex mattress manufacturers and there seems to be a consensus that this may not be the best combination.
Latex is very “floppy” and elastic and a tight cover … a strap in the middle of the mattress …and laminated (glued) layers may make a difference and would probably be the best you could do but even with this the latex may sag internally because of all the time it spends resting on it’s edge and “bunch up” in the middle and bottom of the mattress
I think the consensus (and my own “gut feel”) is that you would probably be better off with a firm polyfoam base layer (or an innerspring) which is stiffer and then have a glued latex comfort layer over this and use a strap in the middle. I would talk with the manufacturer you are dealing with to see if they offer this or look at other options that offer this type of construction.
No matter how good an all latex mattress may be horizontally … I don’t think it would do as well in a murphybed where it would be spending a lot of it’s life in a vertical position.
Phoenix
Hi Phoenix. I am still in the process of trying to get the right topper and had a quick question. Would the attached photos of the tags on the recent piece of latex that I received lead you to believe that it’s 100% natural talalay in soft, N2 density? The fact that it doesn’t have any seams seemed a bit strange and compared to the N1 that I was replacing, it is significantly firmer. I think I remember you writing that the difference between N1 and N2 is barely noticeable, so I’m wondering if I received the correct item. Thanks so much.
Hope I attached the pictures correctly. Let me know if you can’t see them. Thanks.
Hi Debbielc21,
It looks to me like its N2 (which is in the label) but the number under the density is higher than N2 would be. I haven’t seen the label for an N2 in person so I don’t know for sure but if this came from a trusted manufacturer I would have no reason to doubt them and the label itself is an LI label.
LI has 2 mold sizes which are twin XL and queen. The queens are less common and sometimes need to be special ordered but they certainly exist.
The difference between N1 and N2 would be quite noticeable. You may be referring to the difference between the 100% natural and blended in the same ILD which would be barely noticeable to most people.
It seems to me that you received N2 (which is listed where it’s supposed to be on the label) … although I don’t know why it lists the density as 5.5 lbs. It’s a curiosity that I’ll have to ask them about.
Phoenix
Hi Phoenix,
Thanks so much for your insight. I totally misunderstood about the N1 and N2 not being a lot different and I was really surprised at how much firmer the N2 is, which is why I questioned if I received the right product. Plus, the density number that you mentioned seemed wrong for a soft, based on what I had remembered reading here . Anyway, I guess I’m in the unfortunate position of being somewhere between an N1, which is way too smooshy and my rear sinks in too far if I’m on my back and an N2, which is a bit too firm and my shoulders ache and arms fall asleep if I’m on my side. I have to decide which one to keep in the next couple days and I’m thinking my best choice would be to keep the N2 and add 1" of N1 over it. Do you think this what you would do? Thanks again for your help with this never-ending project.
Hi Debbielc21,
Yes the N1 is very soft and there are many people who don’t sell it at all and start their choices at N2 because at these low ILD levels they prefer the greater durability of blended Talalay.
I would tend to call the retailer where you bought it and ask them if all their N1 toppers are all listed as 5.5 density (because of the low probability that it could be a mistake from Latex international itself). If I am in the middle of two choices I would tend towards the firmer one. Like all toppers it will soften over time (latex less than other materials) and then if your experience in actually sleeping on it over time indicates that you need a little more softness then you can always add another inch of either N1 or N2 (more thickness also creates a softer surface so another inch of N2 would also make it softer).
Phoenix
Just had to pop into this thread to say that I’m nearly in your same situation, Debbielc21, and I’m finding these posts to be very valuable so thank you both. I too have a 6" very firm latex mattress and am working on finding my perfect comfort layer(s) for my size (5’5" 145lbs).
Hi Bfiguero,
I’ll be sure to let you know how it turns out. Good luck!
Hi Phoenix,
I’m considering this foundation on Amazon and wonder if you know anything about it: Amazon.com
I tested something similar at a store some time ago, and really liked the springy feel. I’m waiting to hear from the company regarding how far apart the slats are. It gets great reviews on Amazon, tho wondered if it gets the Phoenix seal of approval. I’m buying latex slabs as I can afford to – because of cost and heaviness – stacked single pads are easier for me to move around. Right now I have a 3" extra firm and a 3" wool topper. I hope to get another latex layer soon.
Many thanks!
firtree
Hi firtree,
It’s been mentioned a few times on the forum and I’ve always suggested looking elsewhere based on my research and on the fact that it just doesn’t appear to be strong enough or particularly suitable for a latex mattress to me although it does seem that the slats are less than 3" apart. I would personally look for something stronger and wouldn’t take the risk of buying it.
Phoenix
Ok, thanks Phoenix. I hadn’t seen it in other discussions – obviously didn’t look deep enough. I appreciate the heads up.
firtree
Hi firtree,
You can see some feedback about it from one of the members who bought it at the end of post #9 here.
There were also a few comments in the feedback from people that it wasn’t very strong or it broke and it certainly doesn’t look very strong to me and with only a 600 lb weight limit I personally wouldn’t trust it.
Phoenix