The Best Foundations or Base for a Latex or All Foam Mattress

What kind of headboard and footboard mechanism am I looking for? I’m not sure I’d know how to evaluate it, or know if it was good or bad. It essentially just has to take the weight, correct? So I want to make sure it isn’t just held together by a weak looking screw or single bolt?

Back to the slats discussion: I can order extra slats, but it turns out it comes with extra side rails too (the parts are bundled together). So I could do that for around $70, I could also go and get matching wood cut to size from a home improvement store and add adjustable feet, or I could just replace all the slats with a different type (such as metal). A “last resort” option would be to get a metal frame that I can connect the head and foot board too and not use the wood side rails or slats. Any recommendations between those options?

We really like the bedroom set, but if it isn’t the right frame for a latex mattress then we will need to rethink. It’s so hard because most frames do not have weight ratings. We were both excited to finally have real bedroom furniture so hopefully something can work out.

Yes, you’re basically looking at the quality of the assembly, the manner of joining and the quality/type of wood being used on both the posts and the side rails. I’m sorry, but it’s beyond the scope of this forum to point out every possibility and manner of joining side rails to posts, but a visual inspection should be enough for you to see if you are comfortable with the quality of and strength of the area of joining. Metal upon metal can be quite strong, provided the adjoining parts are recessed well into the posts and side rails, and the wood is solid and a good quality. Also analyze the snugness of the joining area.

If you decide to add your own slats, consider making T-slats instead of items with legs down to the floor.

I don’t know why you would order a new bed set and then discard the side rails and slats and replace them with a metal headboard/footboard frame. To me, that defeats the purpose of ordering the new bed set in the first place. That’s only an option I would have someone consider if they had picked up a used bed set from a rummage sale and had to replace broken or missing side rails. It’s not something I would recommend for a new product. If you analyzed a new product and determined the side rails or support structure to be inadequate, I personally would be inclined to look at something else.

Hopefully that helps clarify things a bit for you. Good luck!

Thanks! That helps a lot. I’ll be taking a closer look at the frame on a Thursday.

I did find some additional details. It looks like the frame is solid wood, although it is rubber tree wood. I had not heard of rubber wood so I looked into it and, despite its name, it is not rubbery. It is a medium density hardwood with a similar hardness rating of some other hardwoods, such as some cherry wood. It is a cheaper wood, but overall it sounds durable when used as a solid wood frame. I’ve been reading that it doesn’t look very interesting, so it is less desirable and it is often used with a veneer on the surface. It seems like that should be better than furniture made out of particle board or MDF, but maybe I’m wrong? I guess it all depends on the quality of the wood and how it is constructed, not just the species.

I’m clearly over thinking and getting a little lost in the weeds, which I tend to do. I just need to take another look at the overall build quality, look at the joins, make sure everything is solid and stable, and if it all looks good, add a few slats for extra support. If it looks unstable or weak in any area, I’ll get something else.

Thanks again for all your help.

Their description on the web site said “wood solids”, which is different from “solid wood”, so just have a good general look at everything on your next visit (as you suggested). “Rubber wood” is a general term, but mostly refers to the hevea basiliensis tree common in the Far East (and Brazil). Here’s a bit of a description about the wood you may find interesting. The main benefits are the low cost, abundance, and relative durability for the price paid.

I cannot figure out how to create a new topic so I’ll have to resort to replying here… I have purchased a topper that I love but I’m realizing it doesn’t pair well all my interspring pillow top mattress. My interspring below sinks and causes the topper to dip and I still have back pain… So I’m going to use the old interspring in another room and buy a Polyurethane foam base layer to go with it. My topper is the 3" tempurpedic topper which I think is 5.34lb or something but this topper is amazing it gives just the amount of support I need and want. I have researched endlessly trying to make a good decision on ILD and weight and all that of at least an HD or HR polyurethane. I’m just stressing thinking I’ll get a 2.8lb ILD of 35 and it’ll make the topper feel too firm… So I’m 152 lbs and if it helps to judge what kind of support I will need…I love the tempurpedic topper feel. I live in Berea Kentucky and cannot find a local manufacturer to go-to so maybe you can help with that… Or please tell me some reputable companies that I can buy my Polyurethane base support later from… And if you can guide me a bit I don’t want the base to sink in too much and cause the topper to dip but I also don’t want concrete firmness cause I’m afraid then the topper will feel too hard. Again I weigh never over 155 my weight fluctuates a little I have a slim frame and my shoulders aren’t wide I still look like a young boy. My partner has an even smaller frame. I don’t want to buy too thick of a base layer that’ll be more than we either need. And I’m willing to invest in maybe another memory foam if I have to something like a aerus 4lb 1-2inch to go on top of my tempurtopper. Some mattresses use a 2 in softer Polyurethane then a 3 in firmer polythene and idk if I even need that it kinda seems if the Polyurethane base is too soft my to tempurtopper will sink too much. Another thing I considered was to buy a good cheap memory foam mattress that is firm but they all have a comfort layer and I’m scared that softer low density memory foam will ruin the potential of my tempurtopper. Thank you for reading all this and I am excited to hear back.

Hi Bradbaker1989.

Welcome to our Mattress Forum! :slight_smile:

I am not sure how old your existing innerspring mattress is, but as it seems that it started to soften and break down then it’s much less likely that a topper will be an effective solution because you can’t compensate for soft spots or dips in the mattress by adding toppers because they will just bend into the softer areas underneath them and any effect they have will tend to be partial or temporary at best. if your mattress is not old and is covered by warranty, your best option is to get it replaced as a warranty claim for excess body impression. If it is old, or cannot be replaced under warranty, then attempting to make an older, excessively worn with body impressions mattress last a good while longer by replacing your tempur topper with another topper (whether HD, HR, Aerus or any other material) is not something I would advice.

Even though you love your tempur topper, I would not venture to build a mattress “around” it because a topper’s primary function is to contribute to the overall comfort and the most important priority is your sleeping posture and alignment that comes primarily from the support layers within your mattress. If you sleep with your spine or joints out of alignment then you may not feel that something is wrong until you have slept that way for some time and your body begins to produce “symptoms” once you have slept out of alignment for long enough. In looking for the best mattress/topper combination I would also keep in mind that all the layers in a mattress interact together and sometimes even seemingly small changes can change the feel and performance of a mattress quite significantly.

The only way to know for certain whether a specific mattress/topper combination is a good “match” for both of you in terms of comfort, firmness, and PPP is based on your own careful testing or personal experience on the combination. If you can’t test the combination in person then there will always be always some risk and uncertainty involved shopping for a mattress that will pair well your topper because the specifics of the mattress itself along with your own body type, sleeping position, and preferences can affect which specific mattress would be a suitable choice to work with your specific topper.

This being said you have the option of creating your own DIY with either a poly, or latex core layer, or with a new “regular” innerspring mattress. (You can probably find a new regular innerspring mattress at a pretty good price that you can negotiate at a local retailer) When shopping for a new mattress or DIY componentry I would especially make sure you read the durability guidelines here and post #4 here ~ about the factors that can affect durability and the useful life of a mattress.

While a2.8 lb poly base would be a good and durable material … It’s not possible for me to assess how a 35 ILD in combination with your existing topper or combinations of materials or components will work for your specific needs because the first “rule” of mattress shopping is to always remember that you are the only one that can feel what you feel on a mattress and there are too many unknowns, variables, and personal preferences involved that are unique to each person to use a formula or for anyone to be able to predict or make a specific suggestion or recommendation about which mattress or combination of materials and components or which type of mattress would be the best “match” for you in terms of “comfort”, firmness, or PPP (Posture and alignment, Pressure relief, and your own Personal preferences) or how a mattress will “feel” to you or compare to another mattress based on specs (either yours or a mattress), sleeping positions, health conditions, or “theory at a distance” that can possibly be more reliable than your own careful testing (hopefully using the testing guidelines in step 4 of the tutorial) or your own personal sleeping experience (see mattress firmness/comfort levels in post #2 here).

We have decided to discontinue the provision of listings of potential retailers in various geographic regions (unless they are already approved site members), because of the difficulty in maintaining such lists in a retail landscape that is constantly changing, and most importantly the confusion it was creating with the consumer members who incorrectly assumed that these businesses had indeed gone through the strict qualification process and were approved as members of The Mattress Underground. Such an assumption is unfair to both the consumers seeking assistance, as well as the very businesses and manufacturers who meet the criteria to become Trusted Members of The Mattress Underground.

You can perform a forum search and you can type in the key term any city or area you would be closer to and consider driving such as Lexington or any other area and see what other businesses have been discussed in that region which may be helpful to you. This being said there In the last section of Post #3 there are listed some outlets in Lexington, KY that you might find useful in your search.

I would avoid placing your topper on a cheap firm memory foam mattress, as it will likely wear out or break down because foam softening and the breakdown or permanent compression of the materials or components in the mattress which will have different effects on different people. Any specific estimates for how long a particular person might sleep well may be a “rough guess” at best, but what can be said with certainty is that higher quality materials take much longer to soften or change and will maintain their comfort and support and last longer than lower quality materials. Generally speaking latex is the most durable of the different types of foam materials, higher density memory foams and polyfoams will last longer and maintain their properties longer than lower density foams of the same type, and that the layers both above and below any specific material or component in a mattress will affect the durability of that material as well.

Phoenix

Okay thanks so much and I’ll look into the individual articles. Before seeing your reply to my question I had intended on buying the Zinus Green Tea Memory Foam 6" which has a 1" comfort layer and a “high density” support layer. I considered this is the best price and it is reviewed to be great by commenters and I’ve found articles saying it’s the best mattress in the price range. It is certipur certified which is important cause I have 4 pets and I don’t want any kind of unhealthy smells coming from the bed and make any of them or myself ill.

Considering you saying I basically have to test out mattresses to see what I like. If I go try out tempurpedic mattresses and use the same density support and idk if they sell one anymore bthat has only the 5lb density followed by a high density base layer… But the original or one of the first ones had two layers. 3" 5lb tempurpedic foam (my topper exactly) with a high density base layer. So if I can find a bed that uses 5lb memory foam that feels like what I have which is firm but you slowly sink it’s pretty firm tho… But if I find a bed with the same feel comfort foam and that has a HD base layer and if I find one I like… And if it’s just two layers… Would I be able to just find out the density and ILD of their support base layer and then just buy that?

And btw my mattress is too old to return or replace. It still looks to be flat and I’m using a side that wasn’t used much but I think half the prob or possible all of the problem cause I can just tell the bed underneath is sinking and causing the topper to sink and I wake up hurting cause of the lack of support. My old bed tho is great it’s a pillowtop on both sides and interspring in the middle… But I just wanna use it as a guest bed and get myself a new one.

The reason I want to build the bed is because I have invested 400 in this topper that I can’t return and I want to use it and don’t want to pay so much out for a mattress and just want to use the same density base layer used in a bed that I find to be supportive and that way it’s not so much money. The topper is brand new.

So do you have any suggestions about the Zinus mattress or do you think me finding a bed that uses 3 inch of 5lb foam followed by a high density base layer and find the one that holds me up properly and then ask about the exact density and ILD. And then just buy a base layer??

I will say that laying this topper even on the floor as hard as the floor is it makes the topper so much more comfortable cause of course the floor doesn’t sink… So I’m thinking I need a base layer that is pretty firm… But I’m sure I’ll benefit from a little bit of give. The topper tho is doing the comfort and partly is pretty supportive. It’s just I need a base layer that won’t sink too much. Would the Zinus’ 1" of comfort foam cause the same kind of sink that my pillowtop does and just I end up with the same problem?? I feel think if softer it should give more comfort to my topper and then a relatively hard layer below would definitely get the job done… But I don’t know…I don’t prefer interspring mattresses btw for a base layer because I don’t want a bouncy bed I want it to isolate movement cause I wake up really really easy.

Thanks for your help!!

Hi Bradbaker1989.

While you may have read somewhere that Zinus is “the most popular low budget brand”, it wouldn’t have been here on this site. And even if you had read somewhere that someone considered this to be the case, while other people’s comments about the knowledge and service of a particular business can certainly be very helpful, always keep in mind that you are the only one that can feel what you feel on a mattress and I would be cautious about using anyone else’s suggestions, experiences or reviews on a specific mattress (either positive or negative) as a reliable source of information or guidance about how you will feel on the same mattress or how suitable or how durable a mattress may be for you. In many if not most cases this can be more misleading than helpful because a mattress that would be a perfect choice for one person or even a larger group of people in terms of comfort, firmness, and PPP (Posture and alignment, Pressure relief, and your own Personal preferences) may be completely unsuitable for someone else to sleep on (even if they are in a similar weight range). In other words, other people’s experiences in general won’t tell you much if anything about the suitability, quality, durability, or “value” of a mattress for any particular person (see post #13 here ).

Regarding Zinus… I would also read post #6 here about mattresses imported from Asia or China and which may have been compressed for long periods of time in either shipping or storage before being purchased, and being sourced in China would make this somewhat of a risky purchase IMO. The “High density” they use to describe their product… is a term used for any foam greater than 1.5lbs in density and as Zinus does not freely share their specs it is very likely that they use the lowest end the “high density” spectrum. They do not list the firmness (IFD) of either the 1" memory foam layer or 5" base support foam and the 6" Green Tea appears to have a “egg crate” cut on the top of the 5" base foam. This will soften the base foam, at least on the top section that is cut this way. All in all they use mostly low / mid quality materials although they are CertiPur certified. They are most commonly sold under many brand names in big box stores and elsewhere. Whenever you see “green tea” you can assume the manufacturer is Zinus.

You are correct Zinus is CertiPur certified but just to clarify a few things about your prospective purchase from Zinus. CertiPur is a testing standard that tests for harmful substances and VOC’s in the polyfoam and memory foam used in mattresses. They have a list of mattress manufacturers here which are certified (which includes Zinus) and the foam producers that are certified are listed here. You can see what they test for in more detail here and here The foams are certified to not be harmful to the environment in regards to ozone depletion, not use certain chemicals and have low VOC emissions. It does not guarantee a foam/memory foam mattress will be without odor.

You may wish to peruse and compare with some other low budget options, better quality options that you may wish to consider.
Sedona Sleep sells a polyfoam base mattress (Trusted Member of this site)
www.addable.com/ sells a memory foam mattress.
Nest Bedding has their Love & Sleep mattress. (Trusted Member of this site)
DouglasBed From site member Novosbed. Canadian-only. Memory foam over polyfoam layer and polyfoam base.
Christeli has one memory foam option (Trusted Member of this site)
LuxiSleep has a low budget option as well. (Trusted Member of this site)

If the topper works well enough for you on the floor, then you are correct that a firm enough mattress under it will help with both adding some comfort and to raise it off the floor. I am not sure on which part of your personal value equation your mattress selection was based, as you mentioned mostly price and other people’s reviews or opinions, but If you are working with a more restricted budget, post #4 here and the posts it links to also include many of the better lower budget online options I’m aware of (Zinus is not on this list). If you chose to go with this mattress for different reasons keep in mind that depending on your needs and personal preferences the mattress could work as a base for your topper but I will have a shorter useful life. If the product does not perform as well as you are hoping for at least you’d have 100 night in home trial (which is standard in the industry for most bed in the box mattresses)

Some of the mattresses from Ikea may also be worth considering (see post #3 here and the posts it links to) There are also some lower budget latex and latex hybrid options that are listed in posts #3 and #4 here that are in “relatively” lower budget ranges (although some of these may be more than your budget). Some of the new “simplified choice mattresses” that are also in relatively low budget ranges (from $600 to $1000 queen size) are also listed in post #2 of this topic and may also be worth considering.

Hope this helps.
I’m looking forward to finding out what you end up deciding … and of course any additional comments or questions you may have along the way that I or any of the Expert members of the site can help with.

Phoenix

Hi Phoenix - I am getting nearer to pulling the trigger on a latex mattress and “box spring foundation” and looked at the one from US Boxspring. My main concern is most (if not all) Queen latex mattresses are listed as 80" X 60" and US Boxspring lists the foundation as 79.5" X 59.5". Wouldn’t the latex mattress hang over the sides and (possibly) become misshapen over time? Now, I have only been looking at foundations for a few days now and a lot of them are the same dimensions as US Boxspring. The mattress I have in mind is from Sleep On Latex (again, 80 X60). Should I be concerned about the 1/2" overlap or what? Help!

Dave

Hi Dave/rott10bird.

Welcome to our Mattress Forum! :slight_smile:

You are correct that US Boxspring is listed as 59.5″ x 79.5″ for a Queen.
This is a standard size in the industry and as long as the mattress is well supported it would not create any “overhang” or “misshaping” issues over time. The ¼ inch “overhang” on each side (totaling to a 1/2 inch) is there more for aesthetic reasons and to make sure that the mattress/foundation combo is almost flush and that the slanted surface is not visible and does not stand out from underneath the mattress as it may not look as good as having the mattress cover the slats… This will also minimize contact with any sharp edges when sitting on the edge of the mattress. When I called US BoxSpring about measurements they stated that the measurements are more in the range of 59.75" x 79.75" which will leave you with a meer 1/8[sup]th[/sup] inch on each side of the mattress.

This would different for an inset type of bedframe which is supposed to frame the mattress and will need to be at least as large as the mattress that is going inside with a little room for the fingers as well for maneuvering the mattress.

Phoenix

I have a Avocado King mattress and need a new foundation. Would the US Box Spring foundation be a good one for it?

Hi chaeha.

Welcome to our Mattress Forum! :slight_smile:

Just to be on the safe side I always recommend to check with the mattress manufacturer/retailer to make sure that the foundation you are considering is appropriate and doesn’t void your mattress warranty.

In your particular case, AG requirement is to have less than 5" between slats (Their own foundation has 4" wide slats, placed 3" apart along the rails). US Box Spring’s foundation would meet the foundation requirements that the AG lists here for their mattress. US box can hold up to 1500 Lbs and their base foundation comes with 15 Slats, all less than 3″ apart and if for some reason you desire even more supportiveness you can request more slats to provide the desired structural support for the bed and user(s) on top of it.

I hope this helps

Phoenix

Hi Phoenix. We are buying our first latex mattress! After some research we decided on a SleeponLatex 9" medium. Because under the bed storage is essential, we decided to go with a wire grid foundation as opposed to a slatted wood base. We selected Luma’s Space Saver Steel Bed Frame because it appears to have more longitudinal wires and closer spacing in the grid then other wire grid foundations. Nevertheless to supplement, we are adding a Savvy Rest coir bed rug to help prevent sagging while maintaining ventilation. Do you think this setup allows for adequate support and ventilation for this mattress? Also is vinyl lattice an acceptable substitute for the coir rug and if so how many are recommended?

Thanks for all you do!

Hi PeliasRex.

Welcome to our Mattress Forum! And most importantly … Congratulations on selecting your very first latex mattress and on making some very sound decisions :)!

It looks like you did some good research and ended up with some great choices … which of course is the ultimate goal of the site. As you know the all latex bed from SOL is a great quality value choice and you probably are aware that I think highly of them and consider to compete well with the best in the industry. They are knowledgeable and take good care of all their customers.

As with any foundation, I generally recommend checking with the mattress manufacturer/retailer to make sure that the support system you are considering wouldn’t invalidate the warranty of the mattress. This being said, the Glideaway Space Saver frame is one of the better metal frames which with its 14" height from floor to frame has certainly much more storage space than other brands/models. It also has four corner brackets included for attaching headboards and/or footboards to bed base which might be useful.

The GlideAway SS has a sturdy construction and supports up to 1200 lb (You’ll need to do the math and add the weight of the mattress and the people sleeping on it.) but I agree with you that this particular model has smaller gaps between the wires creating a more evenly supportive surface than some of the other similar platform bedframes. At a quick glance is also looks like Luma sells it for the best price on the market at the moment.

As far as the rug or the lattice layers you are considering, either could be used to ensure that the latex is evenly supported and that the under mattress ventilation is adequate, You wouldn’t necessarily gain much (if anything) by adding multiple layers … in fact another good solution for those with a more restrictive budget is to get some woven thick fabric (non-stretchy) and attach it as tightly as possible to the top of the wire grid so that the surface was more evenly supportive. Others even purchased a good quality cover and used it to the same effect.

The 1" bed rug made of coconut fiber (coir) with natural latex from Savvy is a porous mat allowing for air good circulation as well as preventing the wire grid “slicing” into the bottom of the mattress. The coir is usually placed to provide air circulation around the mattress, which with a wire grid foundation wouldn’t be a problem anyway. A vinyl lattice would be much thinner, but equally supportive The diamond lattice gaps would allow for both air ventilation and also help increase the load bearing surface area and improve the support under the mattress to prevent it from sagging into any wire gaps. It is also less expensive than the coir, but in the end, your choice would come down to your own personal value equation and what is important to you. All things equal, if sometimes in the future you’d like to upgrade the foundation and get a power base then I’d probably go with the coir rug.

Good luck with your multiple purchases!
I certainly appreciate your questions so that others can feel more confident that there are some good lower cost foundation options available.

Phoenix

Hi all!

First, I’d like to say thank you for this website. My husband and I have just bought our first mattress together, and the information given here helped us make an informed decision.

However, we now need help with picking a frame. We’ve purchased the king mattress from Sleeping Organic in Mt. Pleasant, SC, and will be getting a “plain” king foundation from US Box Spring (specs for both below the question).

Under-bed storage matters to us, so we’d like to have the foundation and mattress off the floor. We’re totally fine with a no-frills metal frame, although it would be nice to have headboard brackets for the future.

We’re both on the heavier side (I’m 5’6" and 185, he’s 6’5" and around 310), which I know impacts the type of frame we should get.

Does anyone have any recommendations? I’ve looked on amazon and googled, but there seems to be quite a difference between what companies say is the weight limit of the frame, and what it can actually hold.

Also, what about universal bed legs? Could those work? They’re made of plastic, which makes me a bit nervous. Someone asked on their website and a staff member responded that they break at 4,000 pounds? http://www.sleepsolutionscenter.com/bedlegs.htm

We’d like to stay around $100-$150 if possible, but we could consider going higher if it’s amazing.

Mattress and foundation specs (I didn’t include their weight because I’m having difficulty finding it online, but I could email both places to find the information if a recommendation can’t be made without it):

Sprout 7" 2 layer organic mattress: Dunlop firm over extra firm

2" Dunlop Firm topper

Washable wool mattress pad

8" US boxspring king foundation (willing to get the 5.5" one if there’s a significant weight difference)

Hi lehcarlies.

Welcome to our Mattress Forum! :slight_smile:

You are welcome! I am happy that you found the information on our site to be helpful and assistive…Most of all congratulations on your new Mattress purchase from Sleeping Organic.

The universal bed legs are a solution that is commonly used to raise the bed off the floor and get under bed storage space. US Box Spring makes a good quality foundation which would be appropriate for a latex mattress which supports weights up to 1500lbs

Generally speaking, it would depend upon the number and quality/strength/design of the universal legs that you are considering . US Box Spring’s King foundations are made from two separate Twin XLong to support higher weight sleepers which would be more than suitable for your added weight and a 9" latex mattress. They recommend using 12 legs per foundation for a king and they also provide bedlegs with their foundations at approximatley $10 per leg (shipping included) which would be slightly above the $100 mark for your budget. Regardless of the bedleg product you settle upon, I’d keep in mind that the side rail wood widths for for foundations are geerally between 2" and 3" and the plastic receptors used to screw-in the legs can be slightly larger on one side than the width of the wood. These must be positioned flush with the outside edge of the side rail as in the attached picture below which allows for at least 4 screws to solidly anchor the leg. Here is also a placement diagram that may be helpful to you.

[center]
https://uploads.mattressunderground.com/outside/66/USBoxspringsUniversal-Bedleg-receiver.jpg[/center]

If in any doubt I would always defer to the manufacturer of your foundation and phone them and ask if their product is designed to be used with screw-in legs. (which US boxspring is) Each foundation manufacturer would want their product to perform properly and they’ll have the best knowledge as to whether or not this would be a possibility or contraindicated.

The Glideaway Space Saver frame is one of the better metal frames which is quite sturdy and supports up to $1200lbs. with and under the bed storage space of 14" (floor to frame) which has certainly much more storage space than other brands/models. It also has four corner brackets included for attaching headboards and/or footboards to bed base which might be useful… If this product interests you then Luma Sleep one of our Trusted members here offers it at a very good price point.

As always with any foundation I’d make sure to check with the mattress manufacturer the foundation requirements necessary for any specific mattress to make sure that it does not void the warranty or adversely impact the long-term performance of the mattress.

I hope this is helpful to you and I look forward to any updates or comments you might have.

Phoenix

[color=black]Hi Phoenix.

Thanks for your advice and input! As advised I checked with SOL regarding the warranty and they informed me that if use of the Glideaway frame with a coir rug above the frame resulted in “indentations” that would not be covered under the warranty. Given my concern regarding ventilation under the mattress, they suggested a slatted bunkie board might “be a better alternative to ensure the mattress is receiving the correct amount of support”. (They offered no opinion on the effectiveness a coir rug or vinyl lattices.)

While I still feel the configuration I was considering could provide adequate support, the thought of an indentation invalidating the warranty is a bit scary. I’ve begun looking at some slatted wood Bunkie boards options and found a wide array of selections and pricing. I would want something with slats no more than 3" apart but have been having difficulty finding something sturdy, well regarded, but reasonably priced.

Any thoughts on all this you could offer would, once again, be much appreciated.[/color]

I have never been unhappy with any frame purchase from these guys

Ari - I have been looking for a foundation to support a latex mattress and looked at the site you mentioned above. Unfortunately, they (Knickerbocker) didn’t seem to have what I am looking for - slatted foundation with slats spaced less than 3" apart. Am I missing something on their website?

Nope sorry, thought metal bed frames were mentioned
We also have one of these maybe this is what you need

We bought the low profile foundation and it slid right into our knickerbocker frame and the setup is quite sturdy