I know its not ideal, because of mold and moisture issues, but I’ve gotten used to the feeling of my bed on the floor and literally cannot sleep if my bed is now on a frame. This has been the case with a new bed Im trying and my old bed. My sleep data when the new bed (and old bed) is up on a wood slat frame (spaces about 3 inch) is terrible; no deep sleep. I’ve tried getting used to it, but I can only feel terrible for so many days in a row (5 max and i had to go back). So now what to do? Is there a bed base or platform that might feel like the floor? I saw the Floyd, bed, but $1200 seems like way too big of a gamble on that. Any other suggestions for an idea for a base with zero movement but wont have moisture issues? Suggestions much appreciated. The wood slat frame is the Ekko from KD, it doesn’t have a center support, which I feel is bad, but they claimed it didn’t need it. (however when i push in the middle of the slats, there is movement. Also I’m not handy and have tried to figure out something for a center support and it didn’t work, would prefer to just get something new that is very very stable. I don’t feel the motion very much, but I think my body senses the difference) I’m not sure plywood on top would work, since the slats may still have movement? .
Hi pressurepts.
You could try a bunkie board type foundation instead. It’s just solid and flat, like the floor.
You could also keep your mattress on the floor and take on the responsibility of airing it out (standing it up against the wall every few months) for flow. You wouldn’t be the first (or last) person to do that 
NikkiTMU
Unless your frame is wobbly, it’s hard to imagine what you might feel on slats that you don’t feel on the floor (other than the air flow or temperature might be different.) But here are some ways to make it more rugged, if motion is the issue.
If you are on a tight budget, get about nine cinder blocks from Home Depot and lay them out on the floor in a grid, then put two layers of thick plywood (like one inch thick underlayment) on top of the cinder blocks so the seams are offset. Have the store cut the panels to size, for example if you have a 60x80 queen bed you cut two 30x80 pieces for one layer, and two 40x60 panels for the other layer and so the seams are offset. These dimensions are just examples; any other dimensions can work if that helps fit them in your car. Then put some screws through them to lock the two layers together. This will be very heavy, immobile, and rock-solid as long as your floor is reasonably close to flat. If you want to go even further you can get some construction adhesive glue and put a dab of it on top of each cinder block, and between the two layers of wood.
Another option is just beef up your existing slatted base. Have the store cut one layer of plywood similar to above and screw it to the base, and put the base on cinder blocks, you may just need four - six blocks this way.
Or if you have more money get Box Foundation - European Sleep Works and, as you can see, the spaces between the slats are narrow and it is very robust. Put it on your existing frame or on cinder blocks.
Your mattress predicament isn’t unique, and your insistence on a floor-like sleeping experience is understandable - sometimes, we simply prefer what we’re used to. That being said, I’d like to offer some insights on your situation.
I agree with you that the Floyd bed, while seemingly promising, could potentially have the same issues as a floor setup due to its solid surface and lack of airflow. So I’m afraid it might not be the solution you’re looking for.
As you’ve acknowledged, placing a mattress directly on the floor can result in mold and moisture issues. This problem is heightened in certain mattress types. For instance, solid foam mattresses tend to have the least airflow which increases the risk of mold growth. This includes a variety of mattresses, ranging from budget ones on Amazon to well-known brands such as Casper Original, Ghost Bed, and even Tempurpedic, provided these models do not have springs.
On the other hand, latex, though breathable, is also susceptible to mold and mildew due to its solid form and resultant lack of airflow. Interestingly, innerspring or hybrid mattresses might be least likely to experience mold issues, although there are several variables to consider. For example, one-sided mattresses with lots of base support foam could still face mold problems. Even the fabric used on the bottom of the mattress can play a role in this.
Two-sided mattresses can be a favorable choice when it comes to reducing the risk of mold and mildew, as they tend to be less susceptible compared to other types. The reason behind this is the design itself: the quilting on both sides of the mattress lends itself to improved airflow. This quilting, with its slight bumps and ridges created by the stitching, provides some space for air to circulate, preventing the mattress from lying completely flat against the floor.
Another factor worth considering is the type of coil system in your mattress. An open coil system can be more effective than a pocket coil system in mitigating the risk of mold growth. Open coil mattresses have interconnected springs, which allow for better air circulation compared to the individual pockets of springs in a hybrid mattress.
So, if you’re planning to keep your mattress on the floor, a two-sided mattress with an open coil system could potentially offer a more breathable setup, reducing the likelihood of moisture-related issues. However, remember that this doesn’t completely eliminate the risk, and regular checks for mold or moisture, as well as considering a moisture barrier, are still advisable.
Now, all mattresses carry some risk of mold growth. External factors like room humidity, temperature swings causing condensation, or living near bodies of water can all contribute. The type of flooring can also make a difference, with concrete subfloors posing a higher risk compared to others, while carpets can offer some protection.
Even using a bunkie board or a foundation on the floor carries some risk due to direct contact between surfaces. While this risk is relatively low, it’s there nonetheless, depending on your specific circumstances and climate conditions.
If you’ve had success with sleeping on the floor, I’d say stick with it but proceed with caution. Routinely check for signs of mold or moisture under your mattress, particularly if it feels unusually cold or damp. Alternatively, a moisture barrier between the floor and mattress could be a good solution. These barriers are often used in boats and RVs to mitigate the risk of mold and mildew. Here’s an informative video about it from an RVer who dealt with and solved mold issues using this method: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ApOir71n_U
Here are three potential suppliers of moisture barriers for your consideration, although I must clarify I don’t have personal experience with any of them. Perhaps some fellow forum members can chime in with their reviews or recommendations:
https://www.hyperventonline.com/
https://www.amazon.com/Ravenwolf-Marine-Den-Dry-Mattress-Underlay-King/dp/B07DLB8CGM
Remember, this advice is strictly based on online research and general knowledge about mattress materials and setups. Your situation is unique and you should consider all factors before making a decision. It’s always a good idea to consult with professionals and do your own thorough research. Happy sleeping!