How to look for and find the best mattress ... for YOU! ***READ FIRST***

[Just_Right]

Hi Phoenix,

I will get tested for allergy to latex.

I handled the bare latex samples a fair bit and didn’t get any skin irritation.

My sinus reaction to the latex mattresses was less immediate than to memory foam mattresses, but more long lasting.

To me, memory foam just smells like an oil field. The smell gets on any clothing that comes in contact with it and must be removed. It would make me ill in a different way, I think, if I slept on a memory foam mattress. But, just lying on it for 15 minutes, I don’t get the stinging sinus irritation or long lasting sinus pain.

To me, latex does have an odor, but it is not immediately offensive. However, as my body starts to react to it, I want the smell off me, just like I want the memory foam smell off of me.

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For polyurethane, would it be correct to say that a membrane type mattress encasement would not help with out-gassing?

Are there specific brands, product names, chemical compositions, processing steps or other ways of specifying polyfoam so that I get a mattress with a short out-gassing period?

Does just specifying greater than, or equal to, 1.8 lbs (per ?) assure high quality/durability - without regard to manufacturer, etc?

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Thanks for a truly enlightening post.

[phoenix]

Hi Just Right,

To me, latex does have an odor, but it is not immediately offensive. However, as my body starts to react to it, I want the smell off me, just like I want the memory foam smell off of me.

Most latex has either a sweetish smell (talalay) or a rubbery smell (Dunlop). Neither is offensive to most people (and some people like the smell of Talalay) but the Dunlop is a little stronger and takes a little longer to dissipate in most cases.

For polyurethane, would it be correct to say that a membrane type mattress encasement would not help with out-gassing?

It may reduce it to some degree but it wouldn’t stop the VOC’s no. To stop them completely you would need to encase the mattress in clear non toxic polyethelyne plastic that was about 5 mils thick which would be both noisy and stop ventilation of the mattress completely.

Are there specific brands, product names, chemical compositions, processing steps or other ways of specifying polyfoam so that I get a mattress with a short out-gassing period?

Unfortunately no … and as you are also discovering there will also be a range of experience with exactly the same type of foam depending on how well it was cured, how long it was left to air out after manufacturing, how quickly it is wrapped, and differences in manufacturing conditions as well. About the best you can do is go by CertiPur certification either at the foam manufacturing level* or at the mattress manufacturing level* along with any feedback or personal experience from the retailer or manufacturer you are purchasing from. All the major North American foam manufacturers are CertiPur certified.

ADMIN NOTE: *Removed 404 link|Archived Footprint 1: certipur.us/pages/for-industry/find-a-foam-supplier/|Archived Footprint 2: certipur.us/pages/for-consumers/find-products/

Does just specifying greater than, or equal to, 1.8 lbs (per ?) assure high quality/durability - without regard to manufacturer, etc?

Yes to a degree. Polyfoam density is the single biggest factor in the durability of a foam and 1.8 lbs is at the bottom end of higher quality polyfoam. There are also other definitions of quality though besides durability which have to do with the specific properties of the foam (such as resilience, compression modulus, ventilation etc) which have more to do with performance than with durability. There are also other more relative factors involved in durability as well (see post #4 here) so the design of the mattress, the position of the foam in the mattress, the thickness of the polyfoam layers, the softness of the foam, and it’s suitability for a specific person will also play a role in how long a mattress will last for each person.

Phoenix

[Just_Right]

Hi Phoenix,

I liked the comfort and support of the inner spring mattress with polyfoam comfort layers (its a double sided mattress). The last one we saw on our trip yesterday.

The ticking on this inner spring / polyfoam mattress is a polyester blend. The mattress felt warmer than the latex ones, which have a cotton cover.

Would polyester blend ticking make a mattress sleep warmer than if the same mattress had cotton ticking?

It occurred to me that I might buy their display model, if it has been on the floor for several month or more, since it would have been through the worst of the out-gassing. Is that ‘done’? Any drawbacks?

Eventually the out-gassing must stop being a bother with polyfoam - even for me.

Thanks.

[LuckyEnuff]

So I start to search in earnest and like many other posters find that going to a local mattress store is an exercise in frustration. They know nothing! So here are my issues:

1. I need new mattresses for my split king (twin xl’s) and the bases are Sealy Posturematic adjustables. The base of these is lower than a standard box spring and I’ve just purchased a four poster bed that would look best with a “higher profile” mattress. So since my old mattresses need to be replaced I’d like to get deeper ones. So the first question is are deeper mattresses suitable for the use and wear and tear of being on an adjustable bed and is there a point that the “inches” become a bad idea for an adjustable bed? My current original mattress is an 8" with a 2" memory foam topper on it. I have to say the mattresses are about 10 years old and while they need replacing I can’t fault Serta in that they still have no sinking middles and have held up very well. Unfortunately, the iComfort and similar other major mattress manufacturers for adjustable beds do not rate very highly these days so obviously quality has changed and I would not consider them for a replacement. I do like the edge support of the innerspring and don’t like the turtle on its back softness of the memory foams.

2. I still am an old dinosaur that likes the idea of being able to flip the mattress and there aren’t very many manufacturers that make these anymore. I did find an innerspring one on Adustamatt.com that has a tight top on one side and a latex pillowtop on the other and that seems about it. (11 1/2" Sleeplab 660 Coil Dual Comfort Innerspring with Latex). There doesn’t seem to be anything to compare this to otherwise. Any ideas for a small manufacturer that might entertain doing this also?

3. But to get into the 21st century as far as mattress options, if I flip to Brooklyn Bedding site and look at their latex mattresses, the 10" Total Latex, 12" Bamboo Bliss and 14" Aloe Alexis all seem interesting but it still goes back to besides inches, how do these significantly differ from one another. Both the SleepLab above and these at Brooklyn Bedding all come in at around $1000 to $1300 range for a xlong twin so the price point is not the issue. The Sleeplab however did have a 20 year warranty and these (as well as others generally have significantly less, like 10 year warranties. I looked at the mattresses on Amazon but frankly when they are coming in at half the amounts of these mattresses I have to believe there are some serious differences. I am a believer in “getting what you pay for”, so I don’t mind spending for a good mattress but just want to make sure that I get what I pay for. I did like the Brooklyn Bedding concept of the zipperable top and the ability to change the comfort level layer if you don’t get it right. In reading the comments it seemed a bit more customizable when one couple were advised to flip the 3" upper and middle layers of the Aloe and were able to get the bed comfort “just right”. (Now that is good customer service to tell them to try that!)

4. My biggest problem these days is hip pain so obviously the existing mattress no longer gives the support needed to that pressure point. I prefer being a side sleeper with stomach being next and then back. I do pretty well when on a Westin Heavenly bed so what say you about the comparison to other mattresses with the same specs of that one? Anybody got the specifics to compare to these others I’ve mentioned? I’m open to any and all comments.

Finally, I too thank you Phoenix for such a great site. The mattress industry and retailers do their best to not give you the ability to compare and this site is invaluable.

[phoenix]

Hi Just Right,

I liked the comfort and support of the inner spring mattress with polyfoam comfort layers (its a double sided mattress). The last one we saw on our trip yesterday.

If the foam quality is good and suitable for its budget range then this could certainly be a good option. a two sided mattress will make a significant difference in durability if you keep up with the rotation and flipping schedule.

It occurred to me that I might buy their display model, if it has been on the floor for a month or more, since it would have been through the worst of the out-gassing. Is that ‘done’? Any drawbacks?

This can be a good option if you are comfortable with a floor model that has been somewhat “used” and if the discount makes it worth it (it should be a significant discount off the best price available for that same mattress). The good news is that floor models are usually not heavily used … especially in lower traffic stores. Keep in mind though that in most cases floor models are a final sale with no exchanges (if the store normally offers an exchange) and they usually don’t have a warranty either.

In most cases a floor model that has been on the floor for several months or more will have completed most of the offgassing. The law tag on a mattress has the date it was manufactured. I would also keep in mind that some retailers sell “floor models” as part of their regular sales techniques. They will sell a “floor model” as a special deal and then replace it with another mattress which is once again sold as a “special deal” on a floor model with a discount off inflated regular prices. People who get what they believe is a “special deal” are much less likely to complain about their purchase after the fact.

Floor models are usually replaced when new models replace old ones or when a particular mattress is not selling or being discontinued or for some reason is being removed from the showroom floor.

Phoenix

[phoenix]

Hi LuckEnuff,

Hopefully you have already read this but just in case the first post of this thread is the best place to start with your mattress research.

So the first question is are deeper mattresses suitable for the use and wear and tear of being on an adjustable bed and is there a point that the “inches” become a bad idea for an adjustable bed?

It depends on the type of foam in the mattress and how well it conforms to the adjustable. Latex for example is much more elastic and “bendable” than polyfoam so a thicker latex mattress would be more conforming then the same thickness of polyfoam. As long as it comforms well then it would be fine (and the manufacturer or retailer will tell you if it’s suitable for an adjustable). More than about 12" or so may not conform as well.

Unfortunately, the iComfort and similar other major mattress manufacturers for adjustable beds do not rate very highly these days so obviously quality has changed and I would not consider them for a replacement.

You are certainly right that quality has generally gone down in the mainstream part of the industry.

2. I still am an old dinosaur that likes the idea of being able to flip the mattress and there aren’t very many manufacturers that make these anymore. I did find an innerspring one on Adustamatt.com that has a tight top on one side and a latex pillowtop on the other and that seems about it. (11 1/2" Sleeplab 660 Coil Dual Comfort Innerspring with Latex). There doesn’t seem to be anything to compare this to otherwise. Any ideas for a small manufacturer that might entertain doing this also?

There are many smaller local or regional manufacturers that are sold factory direct or through better sleep shops that still make two sided mattresses and these types of manufacturers are usually the best quality and value as well. it’s really only the mainstream brands that stopped making them (and as you probably know I would avoid these anyway).

If you let me know your city or zip I’d be happy to let you know of any options I’m aware of that are close to you.

3. But to get into the 21st century as far as mattress options, if I flip to Brooklyn Bedding site and look at their latex mattresses, the 10" Total Latex, 12" Bamboo Bliss and 14" Aloe Alexis all seem interesting but it still goes back to besides inches, how do these significantly differ from one another.

They have different designs, different combinations of materials, and different options for customizing both before and after a purchase. The Bamboo Bliss has a single latex layer, the Aloe Alexis has two latex layers, and the Total latex Mattress is all latex (support core and comfort layer). You can read a little more about a latex hybrid vs an all latex mattress in post #2 here. Latex is a much higher quality and higher performance material than polyfoam.

Both the SleepLab above and these at Brooklyn Bedding all come in at around $1000 to $1300 range for a xlong twin so the price point is not the issue.

The total price of a mattress is not a meaningful way to make comparisons. The only way to make meaningful comparisons is to know the details of all the layers and components in each mattress you are considering so you can make apples to apples comparisons based on the quality of the materials inside each mattress. The Sleep Lab mattress doesn’t list any of the details about what is inside it (type, quality, and thickness of all the layers) and you would need to find this out to compare them to any other mattresses.

The Sleeplab however did have a 20 year warranty and these (as well as others generally have significantly less, like 10 year warranties.

Beyond the first few years (when manufacturing defects which is what warranties cover) a warranty is not nearly as important as knowing the quality/durability of the materials inside your mattress. Post #174 here has more about mattress warranties.Don’t forget that warranties don’t cover the loss of comfort and support that goes with the softening of the materials in your mattress (which is not a manufacturing defect) which is the main reason you would need to replace your mattress. Warranties have little to do with how long a mattress will last.

4. My biggest problem these days is hip pain so obviously the existing mattress no longer gives the support needed to that pressure point. I prefer being a side sleeper with stomach being next and then back. I do pretty well when on a Westin Heavenly bed so what say you about the comparison to other mattresses with the same specs of that one? Anybody got the specifics to compare to these others I’ve mentioned? I’m open to any and all comments.

This could be a support issue but it’s more likely to be a pressure relief issue (the comfort layers have probably softened and are no longer providing the pressure relief you need).

It’s generally not a good idea to choose a mattress based on your subjective memory of another mattress and your own more objective testing using a common set of criteria is usually much more effective (see post #4 here). Like major brand mattresses (The Westin is made by Simmons) … hotel mattresses are usually made of relatively cheap materials and are not a good “target” for a mattress either in terms of quality or value. Even low quality materials like lower density polyfoam can feel good for a while (you can’t feel the quality of a mattress) … they just don’t last nearly as long as higher quality materials. &They also don’t provide any meaningful information about what is in their mattresses. You can read more about hotel mattresses at the end of post #2 here and the links to other posts about hotel mattresses it includes.

Your best odds of finding the “best” mattress for you would be to start with reading the basic information, steps, and guidelines in the first post of this thread and then follow the steps and guidelines one by one.

Phoenix

[Just_Right]

Hi Phoenix,

The polyfoam layers on the double sided inner spring mattress we tested this past Saturday are both 1.6 lbs/cu. ft density and 15 ILD. One is 2" thick. The other, which I think is ‘married’ to the ticking, is 1.5" thick.

Is this too flimsy to consider? I think you suggest at least 1.8 lbs/cu. ft.

The owner calls this a premium mattress. Is it possible that he is using a polyfoam that is ‘premium’ in a way that would increase its durability, even though its only 1.6 lbs?

It would be a one person (me) bed, queen size. I am 135 lbs, male and 5’ 10". I would rotate/flip/rotate/flip… on a three month schedule, so each ‘body impression area’ would get 3 months on duty and 9 months off duty per year.

If you think 1.6 lbs is skating on thin ice, durability-wise, I might ask the owner to make a custom mattress with higher density polyfoam but the same ILD for both comfort layers (15 ILD). What density should I ask for and does this idea even make sense?

Thanks.

[phoenix]

Hi Just Right,

I’m not clear on the actual makeup of the mattress. Do each of the sides have a different construction and design?

If each side is different then you may find that you are only using one side of the mattress which would decrease the durability.

The quality of the foam will also depend on the budget range of the mattress because lower budget mattresses will need to use less costly materials.Foam density is the single most important part of the durability of polyfoam and memory foam but there are also other factors involved in durability (see post #4 here) that can have a significant effect including whether the mattress is one or two sided.

It would help if you could list all the layers of the mattress (from top to bottom including layer thickness, layer density, and the type of innerspring), the size and price of the mattress, and preferably the mattress only price (or both the set price and the mattress only price) so I am in a better position to make comments.

If in practical terms the mattress is only one sided then the foam density would be a little on the low side (I would tend towards 1.8 lb as a minimum for a one sided mattress). If it is two sided in practical terms, then 1.6 lb polyfoam can be quite durable. The layers also appear to be thin enough that foam softening won’t make as big a difference as it would if the layers were thicker.

“Premium” really depends on what you are comparing it to. A mattress may be “premium” compared to another one that sells for less but still not be “premium” compared to a mattress that say uses latex or other higher quality specialty foams in the comfort layers. If a manufacturer sells mattress that range from say $300 to say $1200 then the $1200 mattress would be their premium mattress but if they make and sell mattresses that are up to say $2500 then the same $1000 mattress may not be their “premium” line.

Phoenix

[Just_Right]

Hi Phoenix,

Here are the details on this mattress:

Premium Plush - Two Sided Pillow Top Mattress Set - Can be flipped and turned.

Premium Pillow Top Set Description: The Pillow Top mattress set is a premium double sided mattress with a plush feel. We consider this to be a premium mattress set. It is recommended for adults and couples for every night sleep. It is not recommended for large people. Large individuals may feel like they are sagging and not getting the support they need. The mattress is approximately 15" thick.

Innerspring: 660ac, 14.5 gauge coils, (with edge supports around both sides and ends of the mattress). An innerspring that provides a stable sleep surface with supportive comfort up to the edge of the unit. Right hand coils reversed help to reduce partner disturbance and rolling toward the middle of the mattress. Coil Count ( Queen - 805)

Insulators: Insulator mesh (keeps padding from pocketing inside the coils), 1.25 ounce polyester insulator pad (thicker and heavier than industry standards)

Padding: Premium plush foam padding laminated to the inside gusset material to prevent shifting or pocketing of padding
Panels: Premium plush foam with . 8 ounce fire barrier quilted in an open pattern allowing the plush feel to be felt throughout the mattress. The panels are laminated to the inside padding, helping to keep the padding uniform, and to help reduce the size of body impressions. The inside gusset panels are flanged, surged, and hog ringed to innerspring to help prevent the panels from shifting keeping the pillows looking tailored. (Many manufacturers have eliminated this step to reduce their manufacturing costs)

Box Spring: Steel foundation is mounted to commercial grade flat - 1 x 3 slats are used instead of the 1 1/2 slats used that are industry norms.

The comfort, fire barrier, ticking, insulator layers - everything - is identical on both sides of the inner spring core.

I don’t know all the dimensions. The polyfoam comfort layers are both 1.6 lbs/cu. ft density and 15 ILD. One is 2" thick. The other, which I think is ‘married’ to the ticking, is 1.5" thick. The inner spring is about 6 inches thick.

The "sale’ price for the queen set is $1,349. I pretty sure this is their most expensive inner spring mattress set.

I have pictures of the inner springs, the mattress and the “steel” foundation that I can post if that will help.

Thanks.

[phoenix]

Hi Just right,

The details of the layering needs to include the thickness and the density of all the foam layers from top to bottom (on each side) and the mattress only price and size. If I understand your description correctly then the mattress details include (from top to bottom) …

1.5" of quilted 1.6 lb polyfoam
insulator pad
805 coil count (queen) innerspring (type of innerspring is missing from the description but I am assuming it is an offset coil)
Insulator pad
2" of 1.6 lb polyfoam (no mention if this side also includes a quilted layer).

This comes to 3.5" of foam (which seems to be less than I would expect) and with the mattress being 15" thick it would indicate an innerspring which was 11.5" thick which is not likely. There appears to be some layers missing. You also indicated that both sides were the same so if there is 2" of foam in the comfort layers on both sides and 1.5" of quilting foam on both sides as well then the innerspring would be about 8" and this would add up to the thickness of the mattress and make more sense.

Some of the other things that would contribute to durability are the edge supports (no foam surround for the innerspring which is a less durable construction) and hog ringing the foam to the innerspring (which stretches the foam and adds to durability). Quilting a foam to the cover also pre-compresses it and adds to the durability of the foam.

If you can fill in the missing information and confirm that you are considering queen size and also provide the mattress only price then it would help me make more meaningful comments.

Assuming though that the mattress has the same 3.5" of foam on both sides (and could be flipped) and with the construction details you provided (high quality “old style” construction) and that the set is queen size and includes a higher quality foundation, then I would consider it to be good quality and value as long as the experience of the manufacturer indicated that you were inside the weight that this mattress would be suitable for.

It appears to me that you are dealing with a manufacturer who knows how to build mattresses the “right” way.

Phoenix

[Just_Right]

Hi Phoenix,

I don’t have answers for all your questions. Here is extra stuff that I can offer:

The inner spring is definitely 6" thick. (See attached picture)

The mattress is $1224.

The box spring is $125. (They make a 5" high and an 8" high box. I think I prefer the 5" because this mattress is way tall as it is.)

The mattress is queen size. (See attached picture.)

The mattress is designed to be identical with either side up. Same everything on both sides of the inner spring core. It is designed to be flipped so you get double the use offered by a single sided mattress.

As for the missing 2" of layer material, how about the fire barriers and insulator pads - one of each on both sides.

The owner said that my light, long frame would be well suited to this plush mattress. He said I would probably get by with a flip or turn every six months - where an average guy would have to make a turn/flip every three months. I would do it every three months, just to be ‘safe’.

I’m attaching some pictures to fill in some more details to your trained eye.

Thanks for your help. This is looking good.

[phoenix]

Hi Just Right,

The owner said that my light, long frame would be well suited to this plush mattress. He said I would probably get by with a flip or turn every six months - where an average guy would have to make a turn/flip every three months. I would do it every three months, just to be ‘safe’

It appears to me that you are dealing with a knowledgeable manufacturer or retailer that “knows their stuff” and I would use their knowledge, experience, and guidance to make your choices. Once you know that you are dealing with “mattress people” that are providing you with “accurate” information, then their own knowledge and experience with their own designs would be much more specific, meaningful and valuable than mine.

As I mentioned … If you have tested the mattress for PPP (Posture and alignment, Pressure relief, and Personal preferences) then it appears to me (based on “filling in the gaps”) that you would be making a good quality/value choice.

Phoenix

[Just_Right]

Hi Phoenix,

Bad news. The floor model I liked and was hoping to buy is a king, not a queen.

They have a queen that was made a month ago and has been its plastic bag since then.

I’m not comfortable with buying a brand new mattress because of the out-gassing potential. The owner has offered to open the plastic and blow air over the new mattress for a day or two.

This is not latex or memory foam, but it is polyfoam so there will be some weeks/months of out-gassing before my chemically challenged sinuses can tolerate it.

I’m thinking I could buy the new mattress and store it in a spare room, on its side, until its ‘ready’ for use. But that’s a risk as it might be a particularly gassy foam and take many months of storage.

I’m thinking of asking the owner to unwrap the mattress and keep it airing out at his facility for a month first before delivering it.

I have had good results with bad odor mitigation using:

EarthCare Odor Removing Bag

But I think these just sop up the bad odors that leak out, they probably don’t speed up the out-gassing process.

Maybe I should buy the king floor model, even though I’d rather have a queen.

Any advice?

Thanks.

[phoenix]

Hi Just Right,

Any advice?

In most cases a polyfoam mattress will only offgass to the degree that people will notice it for a few days to perhaps a couple of weeks (less common). It’s rare that this would be longer (for most people) although as you know there are exceptions either because of differences in the sensitivity of people or in some cases the specific batch of foam in the mattress. I have heard of some cases with very sensitive people where they let a new mattress (or furniture or anything with polyfoam in it) air out for a year before they use it but they are usually very aware of how long they need to do this based on their own past experiences. In cases like this they would normally need to remove all the other polyurethane and other materials that can cause sensitivity in their home as well besides just the mattress. This degree of sensitivity is much less common (and actually quite rare) but for those who have to deal with it it can be very disruptive for their lifestyle because materials they may be sensitive to are everywhere in their environment … hidden and otherwise.

I don’t know where you are in the scale of sensitivity but I think that you are probably much more aware of your specific sensitivity to various materials than I am and I would use your own best judgement as to what may work best for you. For most people having the manufacturer air out the mattress for a few days would be enough but again I don’t know your specific circumstances or sensitivity. I wouldn’t hesitate to discuss this with them and the worst thing that can happen is that they say no to a specific request. If you are comfortable with a floor model and one is available for you to purchase then this could also be a good idea but for issues like this your own judgement would be much more appropriate than any suggestions I could make. At least it’s good to see that they are happy to work with you to help with your sensitivity.

Phoenix

[jman629]

Hello Phoenix,

I just wanted to make my first post to say thank you for the site and wealth of information! It’s been very informative and even overwhelming as I never really realized how much thought should really go into your mattress purchase. Unfortunately, I didn’t find you sooner and got a Simmons Beautyrest from Macy’s last year and was about to focus solely on another big name from Macy’s again this year to replace our main bed, probably going so far as to purchase a Hotel Collection by Aireloom. Needless to say, after reading the first post in this thread and many other posts from the forums, I have pulled back and decided to do much more research before pulling the trigger on a mattress. Additionally, this has also potentially saved us a good chunk of money as every penny counts now since we just had our first child. The plan was to purchase a very nice bed (originally thought to be the Hotel Collection Vitagenic gel Firm and Ultra Firm from Macy’s) as a kind of thank you to my wife for everything she’s gone through and all the hard work she’s done while taking care of the baby as I’m back at work. Now after extensive reading all over the site, I almost feel overloaded!

However, I think we’ve narrowed it down to Selectfoam and Brooklyn Bedding for our beds. We’re a little apprehensive as we’ve always had an innerspring mattress and not too sure on a latex or hybrid one yet. It’s also a little early still as my wife gets back to 100% from the birth before we head out to test any latex mattresses too. We do intend to go out as soon as possible to test some all latex mattresses and any possible hybrids we may find to see how we feel on top of them. We feel comfortable with Selectfoam because they give a true 100% risk free trial, covering shipping both ways in case we don’t like it. And we’re comfortable with Brooklyn Bedding because of all the positive reviews they’ve received, we feel that we’ll definitely get a high quality mattress from them as well but if we don’t like it, returns will be a little more hassle and will cost money for return shipping. I guess the other main question burning in my mind is how exactly or what exactly is the closest match to an innerspring; all latex or hybrid? Again, thank you for this site and all the help!

[phoenix]

jman629,

We do intend to go out as soon as possible to test some all latex mattresses and any possible hybrids we may find to see how we feel on top of them. We feel comfortable with Selectfoam because they give a true 100% risk free trial, covering shipping both ways in case we don’t like it. And we’re comfortable with Brooklyn Bedding because of all the positive reviews they’ve received, we feel that we’ll definitely get a high quality mattress from them as well but if we don’t like it, returns will be a little more hassle and will cost money for return shipping. I guess the other main question burning in my mind is how exactly or what exactly is the closest match to an innerspring; all latex or hybrid? Again, thank you for this site and all the help!

I think it’s a good idea to test some mattresses locally to get a good sense of the feel of latex and the difference between latex and memory foam (assuming that’s what you are looking at with Select foam). they are very much an apples to oranges comparison (see post #2 here)

It’s difficult to compare the feel of different support materials partly because it can be very subjective, partly because they are very different in how they respond, and partly because it would also depend on the comfort layers that were over either the innerspring or the foam support system which is the biggest part of what most people “feel” on a mattress. It would also depend on the specific designs of the mattresses you are comparing. There are many different types of innerspring mattresses and different types of foam or other materials that can be used in the comfort layers over the innerspring (including memory foam, latex, polyfoam, fibers, and other comfort materials) which would all feel quite different from each other.

Overall though innersprings are “springy” and because latex is the most resilient and “springy” of the foam materials I would have to say that if you are only comparing the support system of a mattress (and ignoring the comfort layers that are the most obvious part of how a mattress “feels”) that a latex support core would be closer to the “feel” of an innerspring than polyfoam.

Phoenix

[BabyRuth]

Thanks for a great forum!

[Just_Right]

Hi Phoenix,

I bought the queen mattress and a 5" foundation.

It was delivered this morning. I had both items set, in our kitchen/dinning room, standing on their sides, with spacers between so that they can air out. The owner said putting the mattress on its side would not be a problem with this 15" one - and he was right. The mattress has no obvious smell, and does not attack my sinuses, possibly because it was made in September of last year. The foundation gives off a strong chemical odor that attacked my sinuses right away, possibly because it was made this month and probably less than two weeks ago.

The warranty surprised me. Since you have said all along that how its made is more important than the warranty, I never even asked about it. Anyway, its ten years, with the first five non-prorated. The body impression spec is 2". Softening of the padding is not warranted. “It is very important that the whole surface area of the mattress be used.” It must be turned and flipped “as often as once a month”.

I intend to follow a once a month turn or flip routine. And I am very light and long. But the warranty makes me think that I might be in the market for another mattress in five years. I was hoping for many more, at $1,600, delivered.

When you review the last few posts I’ve made (including this one) describing this mattress and foundation, where on the “good value” scale does this purchase seem to fit?

Any further thoughts or advice?

I think I will be very comfortable on this mattress, for a while, and think that it is the best one that I could have found, for me, given my various “issues”.

Its a real shame the way the mattress industry has evolved. Its buyer beware squared.

For a complete novice buyer like me, with my various “issues”, you have been of great help and even comfort as I stumbled through this process. Its truly amazing how much time you have given to help me and how thoughtful and enlightening your replies have been.

Thank you very, very much.

Just Right

[phoenix]

Hi Just Right,

I don’t pay much attention to warranties (see post #174 here) but the warranty would need to protect them against someone who didn’t maintain it and used the mattress on one side only which would wear it out much faster. If you maintain your rotation and flipping schedule it will almost certainly last longer than the warranty (unlike most major manufacturers where the warranty is more of a marketing tool).

I don’t know of any way to measure value on an “objective scale” (value is based on the parts of each person’s personal value equation that is most important to them) but as I’ve mentioned and based on the mattress construction, design, and materials and your experiences there and the service you received I would say it was good value.

You can see in this article that the top 15 manufacturers control 87.3% of the market and most of the best value is inside the remaining 13% which includes the smaller manufacturers who haven’t forgotten how to make good quality two sided mattresses that will last like yours. This is the “range” where your mattress fits.

You can see a comment at the end of post #2 here about a similar mattress made by Royal Bedding which he estimates will last in the range of 10 - 12 years on average and with your lighter body weight it could possibly be longer. I have a similar innerspring/polyfoam mattress that is over 15 years old made by a different manufacturer that was carefully maintained and still has an even surface (which of course has compressed somewhat) and is still being used today with a topper (it needed some extra softness for the 200 lb 15 year old that is using it).

I think I will be very comfortable on this mattress, for a while, and think that it is the best one that I could have found, for me, given my various “issues”.

Its a real shame the way the mattress industry has evolved. Its buyer beware squared.

Your mattress will probably last you longer than you seem to think it will and while I agree with your comments about “buyer beware squared” as far as the mainstream industry and major manufacturers … I think you made a good choice which would probably be better described as “buyer has every reason to be happy with their choice”

Phoenix

[Dante]

I read the article in Step 2, and I’m a bit confused.

In Point 1, it says, “Avoid buying a mattress made by any of the major national brands such as Sealy, Simmons, Serta, Tempurpedic. While they are not all “bad” mattresses and some may even be good quality, … none of them have good value when compared to similar mattresses made by smaller independent manufacturers. NONE”

but then in Point 6 it says, “When you are mattress testing … test for the two main functions of a mattress (pressure relief and spinal alignment) separately along the lines of five steps to your perfect mattress. Never test for the “overall comfort” of a mattress or put any faith in words like “supportive”, “comfortable” “firm”, “soft” and many other general or relative terms. Comfort is subjective and mostly about pressure relief in the top layers and support is mostly about how the lower layers keep your spine in alignment. Both are different for everyone and all mattresses need different degrees of firmness and softness in different layers to fit your body profile, sleeping positions, and preferences.”

Value is nothing but subjective, so I’m not really understanding the reasoning of Point 1.