Natural all-latex options for Austin area

Hi cat,

Each person has their own set of criteria that may be most important to them so ā€œvalueā€ is always subjective depending on what is most important to each person.

If the price or the options available (both before and after purchase) are a significant part of your ā€œpersonal value equationā€ though then several of the manufacturers listed would certainly be worth looking at. Options to customize a mattress (in terms of its construction or a side to side split for people with different needs and preferences) and/or exchange layers can also be an important consideration when you are looking at an online purchase where you canā€™t test the mattress in person to make sure it is suitable for your body type and sleeping style.

While price is certainly part of value ā€¦ the options available are also important because when you look back on a mattress purchase you will remember more about how well you slept than how much you paid for it. Habitat uses softer than usual latex in both their comfort and support layers. The Dunlop is about 26 ILD and the comfort layer is N1 from Latex international which is very soft and isnā€™t as durable at this low an ILD as blended Talalay. Since price is also an important part of a purchase I would look at the following manufacturers who all sell mattresses that are similar or lower cost to the equivalent Habitat model if you compare mattresses with similar amounts of latex and a similar cover (wool quilted). Some of these offer various combinations of Latex including 100% natural Dunlop and/or 100% natural or blended Talalay. Some of these have 6" mattresses where you could add a topper and some include a top comfort layer which you can exchange which is generally a lower cost and less risky approach than buying a topper and then not being able to return it if you choose the wrong softness level.

www.mattresses.net/ (has a 6" Dunlop mattress)
https://www.sleepez.com/ (has a 6" Dunlop mattress)

Also, Brooklyn bedding or dreamfoambedding (have a 9" mattress with 100% natural Dunlop and a 3" Talalay comfort layer)

I would make sure that the mattress you listed at Austin Natural mattress is all latex because I donā€™t believe it is (Boyd doesnā€™t make any 9" all latex mattresses). For example you can see a Boyd 9" mattress here that uses 3" of what they call ā€œengineeredā€ latex over a polyfoam base layer but engineered latex is also polyfoam ā€¦ not latex.

The Royal at Sleepworld is organic latex which is certified organic and is a more costly material than 100% natural Dunlop.

Hope this helps you with some preliminary research and it will give you some good sources to talk to.

Phoenix

K, been awhile, but thatā€™s because Iā€™ve been saving up, and am easily distracted.

edit: Oh, yes, and thanks again for all the compiled info and personalized advice people receive here!

Got the beau to test out mattresses for 45 minutes months ago, and I went to refresh myself today; seems weā€™re definitely going to need split layers, as he prefers a much softer mattress than I do, which makes me concerned for the state of his back. Planning to try more mattresses at a quieter time so he can get his comfort, and I donā€™t have to worry about a lack of support wrecking him down the road.

Anyway, we tested and opined: HIM ---- ME
[li]OMI Flora Nouveau: too firm ---- comfy
[li]Pure Latex Bliss ??: more comfy ---- acceptable; almost too soft on stomach
[li]and some unknown that was: perfect ---- way too soft[/li]

The Savvy Rest Serenity then got the most attention, since we were clearly on different pages for firmness. He was pretty content with 3 layers of Dunlop in S / S / F; I was okay with S / F / F, also Dunlop. But I went back today, and they found some Talalay for me to test out ā€“ I seem to prefer the feel of a soft (20-24 ILD) Talalay, still over firm Dunlop. Medium Dunlop just seems too sinking-in, at least as a middle layer, and the medium Talalay felt more supportive, but still too soft. Do you have any layering suggestions / mattresses to try? Particularly for him, since the whole shopping experience is apparently highly stress-inducing, so I need to streamline and focus as much as possible.

I am looking at Frankensteining a mattress together with components from either/both mattresses.net or sleepez; Iā€™m sure the info is somewhere in here, and Iā€™m sure Iā€™ll cobble together another spreadsheet, but if someoneā€™s already done the legworkā€¦ I donā€™t have a specific height Iā€™m aiming towards, beyond making sure to get ā€˜enoughā€™ padding. I do still prefer natural latex.

Particularly, I was wondering if anyone had tried the ā€œextra extra firm" DIY stock theyā€™ve got at the moment ā€“ that plus a 3ā€ N1 topper might do the trick for me, as they suggest for a medium feelā€¦ Iā€™m just trying to figure out how I can give this a test-run.

Thanks!

Hi cat,

Welcome back ā€¦ itā€™s been a while :).

Unfortunately, there are so many unknowns, variables, and personal preferences involved in choosing a mattress that personal testing is the part of choosing a mattress that nobody can do for someone else. His own testing will be much more effective that anything I could suggest based on ā€œtheory at a distanceā€ because nobody else can feel what he feels (see mattress firmness/comfort levels in post #2 here).

It would be useful though to know the specifics of the mattress that he thought was ā€œperfectā€ so he could use it as a reference point because without knowing this ā€¦ unless you were to purchase that exact mattress ā€¦ the time you spend testing a mattress where you canā€™t find out what is inside it is mostly wasted (see this article).

I would make sure youā€™ve read post #15 here and the links in option 3 before designing and building your own DIY mattress out of separate components when you havenā€™t tested a specific combination in person that you can use as a blueprint. Itā€™s generally less risky to go with a ā€œstandardā€ component mattress that has a proven design and is close to what you have tested in person or where you have good options available after a purchase if you need to change any of the layers in your original choice. If you do decide to go in the direction of a complete DIY mattress that you design yourself then itā€™s important to make sure that you have realistic expectations of success and any costs involved if you make a choice that is less than ideal and need to replace any of the layers from your original choices.

The ā€œbestā€ approach to a DIY design (outside of a specific component mattress) is a ā€œspirit of adventureā€ and a willingness to experiment through trial and error and where what you learn and the process itself is just as important as any cost savings you may realize (which may or may not happen).

Just to make sure youā€™ve seen it as well (because there may be some additional options since you were last here) ā€¦ post #21 here includes the members of the site that sell online and many of them sell component latex mattresses with a wide range of designs, features (including side to side splits for couples with different needs and preferences), exchange or return options, and prices.

Phoenix

Been checking the online vendors and such, the local ones, as well. Just too many options! A luxury, for sure, but a challenging one.

Sir and I tested out some clearance floor models.

The Serenity I saw last timeā€¦ apparently someone played with the layers, so it was no longer the combo I considered, ie, it had no Firm in it. But the beau found S/M/M to be quite comfy, with M/S/M and S/M/F (current floor model) to be acceptable, as well. Says he feels no difference between Dunlop and Talalay. For my part, S (Talalay) /M/M felt almost comfortable, but also like it was too soft and throwing my back a curve. S/F/F is still closer to my ideal.

Since the sale Serenity was, again, lacking a single Firm layer (which Iā€™m pretty darn sure makes me feel supported best [though I havenā€™t tried an Extra Firm]), the salesguy suggested/mentioned that the OMI OrganicPedic Duo was part of the floor model clearance. Sir displayed great patience and gung-ho attitude, but was hitting his tolerance for shopping / hangover post-lunch nap need was kicking inā€¦ so I was a bit rushed, but XS/F/F something was feeling pretty good to me. It had little mini layers for zoning, I guess, but I donā€™t think it felt all that weird. For him, XS/S/M was not right (too soft?), sss/M/M felt too firm, and S/sss/M wasnā€™t supportive enough. He was thinking the mini layers might have been part of what felt off to him. But he believes that we could figure out some combo to get his comfort level in that mattress. Itā€™d be about 1300 with all the sample layers included; delivery at $70 and a split queen foundation is either $150 or $200, choice of steel or wood.

Would you consider this good value?

I definitely like the versatility of trading layers out as needed, thus the focus on those two models; possibly the illusion of customization, but itā€™s less intimidating than trying to get a perfect online purchase with no chance to test out a mattress first. Especially given the differences in our perceptions of comfort.

I am concerned about the bits and pieces acting as a cohesive whole; I skimmed through the threads discussing the individually-enclosed layers of latex, with no clear disadvantage, but what kind of knowledge do you have regarding those minilayers? As long as the coverā€™s tight enough, itā€™ll all shove together and play nice?

Thanks again!

Who knows what weā€™ll actually get, but at least Iā€™m learning new thingsā€¦

Hi cat,

These are half layers so that you can customize each side of the bed differently for each person. They arenā€™t meant to be zoned layers. This type of split configuration can be very helpful for a couple that have very different needs and preferences (see the first part of post #2 here).

The most important part of the value of a mattress is how well it matches your specific needs and preferences in terms of PPP. No matter what the cost of a mattress or the quality of the materials ā€¦ if a mattress isnā€™t a good match for you and you donā€™t sleep well on it then it would have little value to you. This part of value of a mattress is something that only you can decide.

The next most important part of the value of a mattress is the type and quality of the materials. Since all the materials are 100% natural latex they are good quality so from a quality perspective the mattress has no weak links.

The next part of the value of a mattress is how it compares to your other finalists and the other mattresses you are considering or that are available to you based on the materials inside it. For a queen size 100% natural Talalay latex mattress with 9" of latex and a wool quilted cotton cover this would certainly be a good price compared to other mattresses that used similar materials if it was new. Of course it is a used floor model and most floor models donā€™t have a warranty so it would also depend on how you feel about having a warranty and also on the exchange options that are available to you if you sleep on it and find out you need to exchange a layer.

Finally, the ā€œvalueā€ of a mattress depends on the other parts of your personal value equation that are most important to you.

From a ā€œraw materialsā€ cost point of view it would be good value for a queen but this is only part of the value of a mattress purchase so only you can decide on how important the price of the mattress compared to the other parts of your personal value equation that may be just as important or even more important than price alone.

You can read more about split layers in post #2 here and the pros and cons of covered layers in post #2 here. You will feel the difference in firmness between each side (which is of course the reason for split layers) but in a suitable cover you wonā€™t feel the split itself.

Phoenix

The mini layers Iā€™m referring to are about 1/6th size of the entire bed, which is why I suggested they might be for zoning ā€“ different levels of support for your hips versus your feet, for instance. There were also the typical 1/2 sheet layers, as well, so there are interesting options.

Just a quick note before lunch!

Hi cat,

I donā€™t see any mention about ā€œmini layersā€ or zoning customizations for the on the Organicpedic Duo page so as you mentioned this may be something theyā€™ve added to zone the mattresses at a local level along the lines of post #11 here.

While zoning can certainly be a useful options if the zoning scheme ā€œfitsā€ the person ā€¦ if you do decide to go in this direction Iā€™d want to make sure you have the appropriate or ā€œofficialā€ layers for the Duo including the solid sculpted layer on top and not a more ā€œrandomā€ selection of layers or zones that may not be the best combination for you.

Phoenix

It does include the sculpted top (which we didnā€™t even test, whoops), along with every layer they have for that bed; itā€™s at Austin Natural Mattress, and they apparently like to have lots of options on-hand for customers to configure to their comfort. Iā€™ll make sure to check on the standard/official layering, too. I kinda feel that with the number of layers included, we could easily swap out without the need for an ā€˜officialā€™ comfort exchange. There were at least mini layers of S and F, and multiples of the split S, M, and F, but I intend to get an exact inventory before I commit to anything. The mini layers (aside from their size) seemed to match the rest of the layers, so Iā€™d hazard they were cannibalized from some other model (poss. sold or discontinued), or just as likely, special-ordered. It was an admittedly hurried investigation, but all the layers looked to be in decent shape ā€“ no tears, stains or holes in the covers on the ones we were slinging around. The guy did say heā€™d hold the bed for us for a couple days while we moved money around and thought about it.

I need to hammer down a number of details, but Iā€™ll have to ask tomorrow, as theyā€™re closed today. But, Iā€™ll also play around with layers some more since Iā€™ll be solo, and try out the sculpted top, since I imagine that would make a large difference to the surface feel.

Given that itā€™s a showroom, Iā€™m not too concerned over the cleanliness of this floor modelā€¦ cleaning the cover shouldnā€™t be overly difficult; part of latexā€™s appeal is its relative durability, so even if itā€™s been ā€˜usedā€™ for short segments by lots of people, I donā€™t think the useful life of the mattress would be much reduced, considering it looks to be reasonably cared for under the circumstances. Plus, weā€™d be getting the exact ā€˜feelā€™ as opposed to the mystery of a new model. Itā€™s a strong contender.

Warranty is probably my biggest sticking point, now. OMI (Organicpedic) requires 1.5" impression, anyway, so while Iā€™m not too worried about normal use over time, if itā€™s clearly some manufacturing error and I have no recourse, well, thatā€™s my value calculation. If there is none, would it be reasonable to try and ask for a price reduction or some other freebie? He specifically mentioned that they usually do free shipping on regular sales, but as it is 1/2 off ā€¦

All my price negotiating has been in very clear-cut haggle-friendly environments, so as itā€™s a local shop that markets entirely to the ā€˜naturalā€™ customer, Iā€™m not sure whatā€™s asking too little or much.

Thanks again for your feedback.

Hi cat,

I would agree that making sure you know exactly what you would be receiving is important and I would also make sure that youā€™ve tested the specific combination of layers that you will be buying to make sure that they are a good match for you in terms of PPP because itā€™s unlikely that you will be able to exchange layers if some combination of the layers you purchase isnā€™t suitable for you.

If everything looks good in terms of PPP and you are OK without any exchanges or warranty coverage (as you mentioned latex is a very durable material) and the mattress is in good condition without any obvious issues then it would certainly be worth considering.

I donā€™t know the age of the mattress or the amount of use or testing that it has been subject to but most defects tend to happen early in the life of a mattress.

It certainly canā€™t hurt to ask for some ā€œextrasā€ ā€¦ until they say no to what you are asking for :slight_smile:

Phoenix

I wrote a big olā€™ post, so of course it disappears. Anyway.

Went after work, tried out XS:S:XS/F/F, which seemed very comfortable with the tiniest bit more support to keep my hips up. The sculpted top/F/F felt very similar. All dunlop, minus the sculpted top, which ought to be talalay. Comfort and support are go.

These layers are included:
sculpted top
1/2 layer: 4 M
mini layer: 3 XS, 3 S, 3 M, 6 F

Which is why I was hoping for more feedback on the mini-layers, hah! I feel like Iā€™m missing some, but I suppose I was just assuming more 1/2 layers. Considering it was a 3x3 stack of layers, it felt pretty secure. Do you think a split queen foundation might introduce stability issues? Iā€™d like one for easy transport, but not at the cost of a wibbly-wobbly bed, or one with an obvious gap. I donā€™t know why it would cause problems, but you never know.

Iā€™m realizing I shouldā€™ve asked more about the foundation; from the price, I believe he was selling me on one of their in-house foundations, and thereā€™s no info on the page for either the wood or metal ones. The display was on a ~3" specialty base of some sort. As it doesnā€™t seem to be specifically matched to the mattress (he was talking about a weekā€™s production time, choice of 5 1/2" or 9" height), I might have just thrown myself for a loop. Thoughts?

Itā€™s about a year old. As suspected, there is no warranty, but they will exchange from their (limited) on-hand supply. Delivery includes setup.

Iā€™m thinking the mattress itself is a good deal for me. I find the layering versatility reassuring, though storing them would be another dilemma. Guess the futon couch would get an immediate upgradeā€¦ Now to puzzle out the foundation.

Just for my own reference: foundation sticky

And this is the bed I bought recently. The king version is rated up to 500 lbs. Mine has seven legs, and three cross bars.

Hi Cat,

I think you have me completely confused :dry:

According to the OMI (Organicpedic) website ā€¦ the Duo is ā€œsupposedā€ to have 5 separate layers. The bottom two layers are ā€œsplitā€ side to side (each 30" x 80" in a queen) and the top layer is the sculpted layer. The firmness of the bottom two layers can be customized for each side.

According to what youā€™ve described though ā€¦ the layers you are testing are completely different.

If Iā€™m reading you right ā€¦ you first tested the following layers ā€¦

Top layer: XS - S - XS
Middle layer: F - F - F
Bottom layer: F - F - F

All inside the Duo cover. This configuration had 9 separate pieces of latex inside the cover.

You then tested the following layers ā€¦

Top layer: Sculpted layer
Middle layer: F - F - F
Bottom layer: F - F - F

All inside the Duo cover. This configuration had 7 separate pieces of latex inside the cover.

The layers that you listed that are included in what you would be purchasing include the sculpted layer, all the layers that are part of the first and second configuration you tested, and then an extra XS section, two extra S sections. Iā€™m not sure what ā€œ1/2 layer: 4 Mā€ means. Is this 4 medium layers that fit together side by side (like the Duo is described on their website) so you would have 2 complete M layers?

Iā€™m also assuming that youā€™ve confirmed that the sculpted layer is 100% natural Talalay and that all the other layers are 100% natural Dunlop and that the cover is included as well?

Is this all correct?

If Iā€™m making the right assumptions and if you are confident about the results of your testing for PPP then it seems to me you not only have the makings of a mattress that works well for you but that you also have a few extra layers to make changes to the configuration as well if you need to (primarily replacing a firm layer with a medium layer). I would also make sure that the split in the ā€œzonedā€ top layers isnā€™t noticeable to you through the cover (since the mattress is designed to be used with a solid top layer like the sculpted layer).

The first thing I would consider is whether you are confident that the layers you are buying allow for a configuration that works well for you in terms of PPP. Your testing seems to indicate that it does ā€¦ at least for you.

The second thing I would look at is the quality of the materials. Since they are all either 100% natural Dunlop or Talalay they are all high quality materials and there would be no ā€œweak linksā€ in the mattress.

The third thing I would look at is how the mattress compares to any other similar mattresses that are available to you. It seems to me that a 9" queen size component mattress with some extra pieces that would allow you to make changes to the mattress at the price you are paying would be good value.

Finally I would look at the other parts of the purchase that are part of your personal value equation that may be important to you. In this case it would be the foundation and the lack of warranty or any other parts of the purchase that would be part of itā€™s ā€œvalueā€ to you. From what you said you would also have the possibility of exchanging for other layers that arenā€™t included in your ā€œpackageā€. Based on my conversation with them you are also dealing with ā€œgood peopleā€.

If all the layers (except the mediums) go across the full width of the mattress and arenā€™t split side to side then you wouldnā€™t be able to have different layers on each side of the mattress so the layers you liked would need to be a good match for him as well.

I would also want to know that the foundation was suitable for an all latex mattress. There shouldnā€™t be any issues with a split queen as long as it fits your bedframe.

Are the cross bars wood or metal? If they are wood you may be better off with 5 cross members. If they are metal then you would probably be fine. I canā€™t see for sure but it looks like it has a center support with 3 legs to the floor which is good.

If you add your weights together with the weight of the mattress and the foundation you may be getting close to the limit of your bedframe.

If my assumptions are all correct and you have taken everything I mentioned into account and are comfortable with all of them then I think it would be a ā€œgood valueā€ purchase and would be well worth considering.

If Iā€™ve made any mistakes in my assumptions then it would be great if you could ā€œset me straightā€ :slight_smile:

Phoenix

You might feel confused, but youā€™ve understood what I said. :wink:

1/2 layer: 4 M ā€“ I intended this as the normal split layer, which, by the by, there are instead 3 M and 1 S
mini layer: 3 XS, 3 S, 3 M, 6 F ā€“ the ones 1/6th size of the bed; they are from another model.

So a total of 5.5 queen-size layers, if you include the sculpted top. The sculpted top is the only whole queen-size layer. It works for me, and the beau says itā€™ll work for him.

Iā€™m concerned about a foundation, now. The in-house foundation is untreated yellow pine, has slats that are 6-7" apart, which is covered with a layer of cardboard, and a cotton cover on that. The guy says that in his 7 years there, it has not been a problem, but offered that a latex-infused coir layer might be more supportive as an addition. He made it clear that this was his gut feeling on the coir, but that he also didnā€™t feel it was necessary to make the foundation suitable ā€“ just giving me an on-hand option that I might find more acceptable. The wood is also naturally dried, so thatā€™s pretty cool. Iā€™m just leery of that wide gap and the cardboard.

Thereā€™s got to be a better split queen option without paying the brand premium for a matching OMI (Organicpedic) foundationā€¦ I suppose a roll of slats (though much lower height) might be a good solution. Or, duh, a KD base. Iā€™m not too fixed on a high bed, which I think I mentioned. Easy transport is the motivation behind wanting a split queen.

Anyway, I also mentioned Mattress Underground, and he seemed pleased and gratified by your interactions.

Regarding the bed: itā€™s all steel, so yes, the cross bars are metal; each of them has a leg in the middle.

Hi cat,

Iā€™m glad weā€™re on the same page :slight_smile:

It seems to me that what you are considering would be a good quality/value purchase.

I think that if easy transport is the main motivation for a split queen then a KD foundation would be a good option as well. I would be cautious with a foundation with wide gaps and a cardboard surface since it wouldnā€™t be as sturdy and would have more potential for sagging over time than a foundation with more wooden slats with smaller gaps.

Phoenix

I kinda wish Iā€™d made the leap and grabbed one of the metal foundations from US Boxspring while they were still available, but it would have been the height of silliness at the time. And that would have introduced its own issues.

Iā€™m trying to decide between a wood KD foundation from same ($275; 2.75" gaps; next-day), the one from mattresses.net ($249; ~2.5" gaps, 2-3 biz days), an Ikea Laxeby ($150; ~2" gaps, [strike]pickup[/strike] ā€“ whoops, only online because itā€™s being ā€˜discontinuedā€™, $99 shipping), or springing for an organic option ($450+S/H; 1.5" gaps; ??), since I lucked into an organic bed. Iā€™m tempted to DIY,butthatmightbetooambitiouswithhttps://uploads.mattressunderground.com/outside/0https://uploads.mattressunderground.com/outside/1https://uploads.mattressunderground.com/outside/2https://uploads.mattressunderground.com/outside/3

Iā€™ve also run across another forumerā€™s find, the Natureā€™s Sleep KD (Sears, $199 pickup in 6-8 days) ā€“ just called and the CS rep said that the slats are 3" wide, making for a 2" gap. She did not know how many slats were on the roll, but also said it would vary by mattress size.

edit: Just talked to the dude at Arizona Mattress Company, and I think thatā€™s made the decision for me. Detailed info is on the landing page for foundations ā€“ not the sized pages. Organic cotton is an option for the cover (or a matched fabric to the mattress, if you buy a set), otherwise, it comes with a more durable bamboo cover; both have quilted wool as a fire barrier. The wood is untreated, kiln-dried Canadian spruce. KD, cheap price, fast shipping to my door, and ā€˜cleanā€™ materials. Getting the credit card.

COMPLETELY unrelated to foundations, yet I have already decided on a St. Dormeir for a mattress protector. Breathable, (hopefully) wonā€™t affect the feel of the latex, washable (machine washable!) cotton and wool.

MORE EDITS: And I am a complete goober and completely forgot to put in the discount code. 3 phone calls in less than an hour, yes, hello, I am a pest. Ken said heā€™d fix it. :silly:

Hi cat,

These are one of the options listed in the foundation post but I would be careful because unless theyā€™ve changed it the gaps are a little more than 3". A 1 x 3 slat will generally be 2.5" wide not 3".

Reading further down your post it seems to me that you made a good choice.

These are certainly a good quality protector and would make a good choice for those that are looking for good water resistance (not waterproof) and a more breathable protector.

Ken will ā€œfixā€ almost anything :slight_smile:

Phoenix

So. I cannot seem to get this to come together.

I bought the mattress about 2 weeks ago, planning to have it delivered this past Wednesday (04/09) to give time to figure out a foundation.

Ordered a foundation on the 3rd (a Thursday), expecting itā€™d arrive before the 9th because of the 2-3 day shipping. Apparently that is 2-3 days after order fulfillment, not ordering, but okay, thatā€™s what I get for assuming ā€“ I get info saying it should arrive by end of business Friday 04/11, so I call the mattress dudes on the 8th to ask them to delay until Saturday 04/12.

On Friday, UPS ā€œmakes an errorā€ (unspecified, no apology or explanation ever given) and tracking states that itā€™ll be another business day until they try again; and the center isnā€™t open on Saturday or Sunday, so I canā€™t even go pick it up. ā€¦Okay, so Iā€™ve got a pile of mattress components for the cats to play King of the Mountain on for a few days.

Also fun, my back has been making it very difficult to sleep lately, so Iā€™ve been particularly looking forward to the new bed.

Fast forward to Monday. Itā€™s supposed to rain buckets today, so I leave a note on the door saying when Iā€™ll be home today and tomorrow, please leave this damned box if itā€™s not going to get soaked.

Said box is on the porch when I get home, yay! ā€¦Said box has been ripped to hell.

A snippet:

Looks like everything miraculously stayed in the box.

But to top it all off, the foundation is a weird size.
Not even the wrong size, but a Frankenstein of double/queen parts.
And, it turns out, the 59.5" width is just too short to rest on the side rails of the bed ā€“ all the weight would be on the crossbars. Looks like Iā€™ll absolutely need 60.5" for proper support.

Sigh. Waiting to hear back.

On, the upside, I have a mattress! Maybe Iā€™ll just go to Ikea or Home Dept and DIY this business, after all.

Hi cat,

Wow ā€¦ youā€™ve had quite a series of ā€œeventsā€ conspiring against you with your foundation and it certainly looks like your foundation was ā€œabused in transitā€. I think that ā€œwhen it rains it poursā€ would be an appropriate way to describe your experiences.

[quote]But to top it all off, the foundation is a weird size.
Not even the wrong size, but a Frankenstein of double/queen parts.
And, it turns out, the 59.5" width is just too short to rest on the side rails of the bed ā€“ all the weight would be on the crossbars. Looks like Iā€™ll absolutely need 60.5" for proper support.[/quote]

Itā€™s certainly very odd to have parts for two foundation sizes mixed in with the same frame and in that case I know they would certainly replace it (although that may not be what you want either).

The 59.5 size is inside the range of a ā€œstandardā€ width for a queen size foundation (see here for an example from Sealy and here for an example from Simmons) and they will often be a little narrower than 60" so they readily fit inside most bedframes. Most ā€œstandardā€ bedframes would work well with this if they have normal width side rails (an inch or more) but yours may be a little wider than the norm. The smaller variations in standard sizing of bedframes and foundations can be frustrating if you need something that is a more exact width or length.

As you mentioned ā€¦ at least you have a mattress ā€¦ even if you need to use it on the floor until you can replace your foundation.

Phoenix

Well, I was also just flustered and failed to measure the foundation as a whole; I was measuring just the side boards solo. :blush: But, still an inch short, which is odd.

The rails are just too narrow to securely ā€˜catchā€™ the side boards, and I was simply unaware that the 59.5" wasnā€™t going to work. Itā€™s on the foundation description, so the information was there, as far as that goes. The bedā€™s inner measurements are 61x81", and the side rails are 1" wide, so Iā€™m once again at an impasse. Iā€™m thinking weā€™re gonna jog over to the big box lumber supply and grab 14 1x3" furring strips, for the time being.

I wish I had room to set up the mattress. :frowning:

Iā€™ve exchanged a few emails with the owner ā€“ he comes across a bitā€¦ brusque. But he hasnā€™t really offered any help, just said that their measurements are standard, and it is my bed that must be fixed. Well.

Iā€™m unsure if heā€™s letting me return it or not, at this point. I had already become aware that the bed was an oddment, but Iā€™m pretty sure that my options to get the steel frame altered are significantly more costly and difficult than finding another solution for a foundation.

On that note, Iā€™ve cobbled together an idea from the DIY posts on here (for reference):
Low-profileBedBaseProjectanditsthreadhttps://uploads.mattressunderground.com/outside/0https://uploads.mattressunderground.com/outside/1
Building My [Own Bed] Foundation (king foundation)
DIY Foundation and Novosbed Harmony (a queen-size version, following the above)
King-sized Deck DIY Bedframe with Foundation for $100

and a couple platform beds off-site:
Very MCM with nightstands
Cute little storage bed, two twin XLs

and lastly, someone who made a wool mattress.

That info, plus my desire to break it apart easily, and limited workspace and general patience with the process at this point, introduces the idea of carriage boltsā€¦ and wingnuts. And the local big box lumber, bleh.

(2) 1x6x6 for head and foot end rails, cut to width
(6) 1x3x8 furring for long rail top and bottom, cut to fit within end rails
(1) 2x3x8 stud for long rail supports, cut into smaller [4"?] segments ā€“ probably 15 or 21 total
(16) same 1x3s for the slats, and another to cut for spacers to keep them from wiggling
(12) 5/16" 3" carriage bolts and wing or hex nuts to match, for securing long rails to end rails
4 screws for each side support; Iā€™m aiming for 9x2.5" multipurpose screws, as the package includes the star/bugle bit, and theyā€™re self-starting and -countersinking. Also need screws for slat spacers, but they can be much shorter and less beefy.

The real issue is finding enough straight boards.

If Iā€™m doing the math right (>.>), itā€™ll be a low-profile foundation at ~6.25". Iā€™m not getting fancy with the slats, since I donā€™t have a router, and I donā€™t want to wait for glue to dry; an easy enough fix, if I change my mind later. As-is, itā€™s a little over 60 bucks, plus tax. Iā€™ll throw a couple sheets on top, for the time being. Anything glaringly wrong someone can point out real quick?


edit: Just before heading out to buy lumber, I checked the Ikea page in a last gasp at the lazy, kind-of desired solution. Turns out, the Ikea Laxeby came back in stock. Score. Even better, there were a couple in the ā€˜As-Isā€™ department in excellent shape. Words cannot express. Seems fitting that the bed is continuing in the floor model veinā€¦

So, for the time being, Iā€™ve got the flexible slat system, and if we decide the bed is too short, Iā€™ll likely build a box as above, using the Laxeby as the slats. Probably re-orient to maintain the shorter crossbars as in the bedframe, or make a simple platform, since the Laxeby has long support beams. Iā€™m pleased.

Now, to see how this all comes together. Sir, at least, is sleeping blissfully.