I should also note that I’d like to try to get more information on the foam in the pocket coil mattresses, as well as the thicknesses of the layers, at Matelas Dauphin.
We visited Obasan as well.
They are all organic Dunlop latex.
We tried the 8", 9", and 10" options. The 8" and 9" have a 3" base, 3" middle/core, and 2" or 3" comfort layer. The bottom layer is always firm, the top is always soft, and the middle can be soft, medium, or firm and split left to right. The 8" was about $3350 all in and the 9" was $4050 all in. Obasan added a wool mattress protector and cotton velour fitted sheet complementary in place of any sort of sale price.
I forget the layer thicknesses in 10", but this option was a lot more configurable. The base layer could be split left/right, the middle had 6 zones (3 head to toe per sleeper), and the top was soft. The cost was $5300 all in.
Built in to the price was basically a 1 year comfort guarantee, where they will swap out any configurable layers (middle for the 8" or 9", or middle or bottom for 10"), free of charge to adjust to your preferences. They also sell individual layers/components ifnyou want adjust comfort in the future; for example, one side of the middle layer in the 9" is around $500+tax and one of the 6 middle blocks in the 10" is $200+tax.
Avery individual component is wrapped. The entire mattress is in a thick wool protector.
ILDs and densities are:
Soft
20-22 ILD
60-65 Density
Medium
32-35 ILD
70-75 Density
Firm
38-42 ILD
80-85 Density
We had a hard time justifying the extra $1200 for the 10" when we saw sufficient comfort and support in the 9". My wife noticed a considerable amount of extra pressure point comfort for her hips with the 9" over the 8"; the extra 1" of soft comfort layer made all the difference.
We both gravitated to the exact configurations recommended using the Obasan online calculator.
9"
Me: Soft top, Firm middle, Firm bottom
Her: Soft top, Medium middle, Firm bottom
The sales person was very open and transparent about everything and we really liked customizability especially given our different weights and sleep positions, but we have a hard justifying the $4000 price tag.
I found the support on the Obasan mattresses far superior to the Dauphin pocket coils, but not necessarily any better than the $1250 hybrid, while my wife didn’t see much difference in the PPP between the $1000 pocket coil and the $4000 latex.
I’d like to visit Matese Lapensée to try out their pocket coils. My wife, who has back issues and complains about mattresses all the time, couldn’t be bothered to shop anymore and would just as soon pull the trigger on the Dauphin Hotel Collection. But our shopping habits definitely differ!
I visited Lapensée and Dauphin today, without toddler and wife, to do some more recon and build up my confidence level on which manufacturer we will likely purchase from.
Dauphin
- Polyfoam in their pocket coil mattresses is 2.5 lb
- Memory foam in their pocket coil mattresses is 4 lb.
- Latex layers are Talalay ~19 ILD
- Coils are 14 gauge (middle section) and 15 gauge (top and bottom)
- All pocket coil layers are 8". The comfort layer ranges from 3" to 4" or so, depending on the mattress
- All pocket coil bases are, if memory serves, 800 total, in straight rows and not offset
- All mattresses can be manufactured as flippable for a fee in the range of $400 for the queen, depending on the mattress. The sales person argued against spending the extra money unless you plan on religiously flipping every 3 months, as most people start neglecting to after a couple of years, negating the benefit. Valid point.
- I didn’t see or hear any red flags with their materials
- Prices for a single sided semi-firm queen in what we tested ranged from $1150 to $1500 delivered. $1150 was a polyfoam comfort layer (different thicknesses and types of 2.5 lb of polyfoam, total 3.5"), $1300 had microcoils topped by 2 layers of different types of 2.5 lb polyfoam (total 4"), $1500 had a layer of latex surrounded by 2 different 2.5 lb layers of polyfoam (total 4"). I don’t have the exact thicknesses of each layer. Prices are all inclusive of taxes and delivery.
- Their comfort guarantee is a $50 delivery charge to swap the mattress within 100 days
Lapensée
- Polyfoam is all 2 lb or 2.5 lb, depending on the line. They use 2.5lb in their more expensive, longer warranty mattresses.
- Memory foam is 3 lb or 3.5 lb, again depending on the line
- Latex is Talalay ~20 ILD
- Pocket coils are 13-15 gauge. 13 for firm, 14 for semi, 15 for soft
- Coil support layers are 9" coils in an 8" pocket for the first 3 price points. The higher price point has 12" coils in an 8" pocket
- The lowest price point is 800 coils in straight lines
- The other 3 price points are 1000 nested coils
- Comfort layers range from about 2" to 4" depending on mattress line and whether one selects polyfoam, memory foam, or latex
- I didn’t like their memory foam density (they used marketing speech, calling it oxygen memory foam, to try and defend the lower density), but no concerns with any of their other material
- Prices for a semi-firm queen were $1475 for the lower end, $1900 for the next, $2500, and $3400.
- Memory foam to replace most of the polyfoam in the comfort layer adds $170. Latex adds $280 and about half an inch.
-They can customize the mattress coils, and split them half and half in a queen or king at no extra charge. So it’s possible to get a semi firm on the left and a firm on the right, for instance - Their comfort guarantee is 120 days. They will change the coil gauge to make the mattress as a whole softer or firmer at no charge.
If we were to compare apples to apples, the price of the semi firm Dauphin with a comfort layer on both sides is about $1525 for the Hotel Collection. 8" of 14-15 gauge coils, 3.5" of polyfoam comfort on either side. The Lapensée is $1475 for the Comfort Royal, 8" of 14 gauge coils, 2" of polyfoam comfort on either side.
I found them fairly comparable in comfort, with the Lapensée certainly a bit firmer. The Dauphin mattress had more stability in the mid section because of the zoned coils, but more plushness in the thicker comfort layer. The Lapensée had softer overall coils due to the lower gauge, but also a thinner polyfoam comfort layer.
What I found interesting is the difference in philosophy of the two companies. Lapensée adjusted firmness within a given mattress line by changing coil gauge, causing more or less give in the pocket coil support layer. Dauphin, on the other hand, keeps their zoned pocket coil support layer constant while adjusting the materials and thickness of the comfort layer.
Any thoughts on what might be a more acceptable approach?
I was assured at Dauphin that a $50 deposit to hold end of year prices is refundable. So it’s definitely a marketing gimmick. But I put a deposit down anyway while we decide.
We will definitely be going with a pocket coil from Dauphin or Lapensée. I didn’t notice a huge (or really any) difference in comfort going from the 800 to 1000 coils at Lapensée, so our choice will predominantly be on:
- Compromising on firmness vs getting customized coil layers
- Which type of comfort layer we both prefer
I am leaning towards Lapensee because, while they keep their comfort layer constant, they can at least adjust the coil gauge to change the overall firmness and feel on either side. It might be the better compromise. A semi-firm coil layer on my wife’s side, a firm on my side, and latex top would run is in the order of $1800 for a flippable.
A similar at Dauphin that would have us compromise on the coil gauge, and not be flippable, would be $1500.
I also made an error in recounting my notes. My notes day Lapensée’s is actually 14" for the polyfoam version, so 3" of comfort compared to the 3.5" at Dauphin. Dauphin’s might be higher overall quality given the denser polyfoam, but does not allow any customization.
More info direct by email from Lapensée. It’s not quite as detailed or broken down as I requested, but still valuable.
So the Royal is:
Maxbreeze fabric cover (??)
- 2" of quilt, which is some combination of 2lb polyfoam and fabric; or 2" of 3lb memory foam covered by a 1" polyfoam quilt; or 2" Talalay covered by 0.5" of a latex quilt
- 8" of 800 pocket coils lined up. 13-15 guage depending on firmness classification
- Bottom comfort layer same as top
Total height is 12" for poly, 14" for memory foam, 13" for latex
Border is 2.5" of 2lb polyfoam
Cost ~$1500 shipped. Memory foam adds ~$175. Latex adds $~280.
The Elegance is:
Maxbreeze fabric cover (??)
- 2" of quilt with 2lb polyfoam; or 2" of 3lb memory foam covered by a 1" polyfoam quilt; or 2" Talalay covered by 0.5" of a latex quilt
- 8" of 1000 nested pocket coils. 13-15 guage depending on firmness classification
- Bottom comfort layer same as top
Total height is 12" for poly, 14" for memory foam, 13" for latex
Border is 2.5" of 2lb polyfoam
Cost ~$1900 shipped. Memory foam adds ~$175. Latex adds $~280.
The Excellence is:
Celliant fibre fabric cover (??)
- 2" of quilt with 3lb polyfoam; or 2" of 3lb memory foam covered by 2" quilt; or 2" Talalay covered by 0.5" of a latex quilt
- 8" of 1000 nested pocket coils nested. 13-15 guage depending on firmness classification
Same as top - Bottom comfort layer same as top
Total height is 12" for poly, 14" for memory foam, 13" for latex
Border is 2.5" of 2lb polyfoam
Cost ~$2500 shipped. Memory foam adds ~$175. Latex adds $~280.
The Luxurious is:
Celliant fibre fabric cover (??)
-
1" comfort foam (not sure what this is) covered by a 2" quilt with 3lb polyfoam; or 2" of 3lb memory foam covered by 2" quilt; or 2.5" Talalay covered by 0.5" of a latex quilt
-
8" of 1000 longer and more highly compressed nested pocket coils. 13-15 guage depending on firmness classification
-
Bottom comfort layer same as top
Total height is 14" for poly, 16" for memory foam, 14" for latex
Border is 2.5" of 2lb polyfoam
Cost ~$3400 shipped. Memory foam adds ~$175. Latex adds $~280. -
The materials all seem high quality, with the exception of their 3lb memory foam.
-
There doesn’t seem to be much difference between the middle 2 lines (Elegance and Excellence) to justify the price gap. All they’ve done is moved from a 2 lb to a 2.5 lb polyfoam.
-
I’m also not certain that increasing coil count justifies the jump from Royal to Elegance.
-
As mentioned earlier, their entire philosophy seems to be around adjusting the responsiveness of the coils to adjust “firmness”. Their comfort layer stays pretty constant, with a slight bump in thickness in the highest line.
I think we’re leaning towards the Dauphin mattress now, thought I’m trying to get more information out of them.
Thanks for your very informative website and assembly of Experts. What a public service!
Also thanks for the reference to Back and Bed which was a great read. Which brings me to my problem today.
I need to replace all or part of our bed system. I would prefer to just replace one bedframe and get new mattresses. Especially since I just refinished an antique bed and attached it to the outside of the bed platform.
The problem is the bed system is made by Lattoflex and combines two 1/2-queen adjustable bases and latex mattresses. It has been a great set. They were purchased 20 years ago from an east coast retailer- no longer in business. I don’t find another source in the US and assume it would be too expensive to ship from Europe.
This is all the more frustrating since the Lattoflex company is now doing something I find interesting. They are matching people to bed systems with a vest system to highlight the backbone- seems worth a try…
Otherwise, I can’t see any solution other than replacing the entire set since one of the adjustable bed frames broke and even though the latex mattresses look like new, I assume they need to be replaced? and while my husband says he is happy with anything, I would like the new mattress to be more “zoned.” Any thoughts?
Hey EWalsh,
Welcome to the TMU forum 
! Thanks for your kind words on the site and its contributors, they are much appreciated. Thanks too for your question.
It’s lovely to hear that you’re still enjoying the experience with your Lattoflex system after 20 years of use, that is quite impressive :cheer: ! Agreed, the costs of buying anything abroad adds up, making it all the more worthwhile to consider local US options.
For TMU Trusted Members who may be of help with your sleep system needs, can you offer any other details regarding your sleep preferences?
Thanks,
Sensei
Thanks for verifying my conclusion.
With this website, think you have a book!
Hey,
I recently just purchased a DIY mattress from Arizona Premium Mattress.
When looking at bed frames, I thought to myself, “wait, why don’t I just make one?”. I’ve already made a few tables and things around the house, and this looks like a pretty simple project.
We found a design that we like HERE, but there’s a few changes I’d make:
- I will probably change up (or possibly eliminate) the headboard
- I’ll be changing the height up a bit (partially on legs, and partially on the “walls”
[li]I’m going to add an extra inner-frame piece[ul] - This will split it into thirds instead of just in half
- This will provide a bit more support for the slats
- This will allow me to use cheaper wood for the slats, as I don’t need to worry about them bowing as much[/li][/ul]
- I plan to use bolts for part of the construction rather than just all screws
Now to the part that I have questions on…
- [li]I’m a bit worried about “squeaking”. In theory, the if things are tight enough it shouldn’t squeak, but being it’s a heavily used item that supports a lot weight, I’m worried that the low cycle fatigue will eventually loosen things to the point of squeaking.[ul]
- What can be done to prevent this for the main supports? I’ve heard about possibly putting a thin layer of padding in each of the joints?
- What would you recommend for padding of the slats? I assume those at-minimum should get something, right?[/li][/ul]
- Do you have any criticisms/comments on my plans?
[li]What is considered the “best” configuration for slats?[ul] - I know there’s no “right answer”, but I was just wondering if there were any more guidelines.
- I’ve read that keeping the gap between them to between 2" and 3" is ideal.
- I’ve seen slat width vary from 1" to like 6". I was aiming to go somewhere in the 3" range. Does this seem reasonable?
- Most DIY designs seem to use 1x?? boards -so closer to 0.75" actual thickness - does this seem reasonable? Being many designs use this, I’d be willing to bet “yes”, but I’ve also seen a lot of shotty DIY projects out there :p[/li][/ul]
Thanks for any suggestions or assistance!
@BChaps
Just built a queen platform bed in preparation for buying a new mattress soon.
Found it incredibly rewarding and i still have a few pieces to wrap up.
Went with 3" between slats, with 3 1/2" wide slats.
Designed with no head board, but I can add one later.
Using a pine base, with red oak on exterior.
Liquid Nails Interior style glue, it has almost no odor.
I glued everything that was screwed together, no nails.
The slats are covered with 1/8" cotton batting, then a white sateen material to protect the bottom of the mattress.
The bottom is covered in a black material for dust control.
All edges for the material are reinforced with 1" nylon webbing and stapled into place then hammered deep as possible.
I do not have the oak on the legs yet, but there is not a single squeak. NONE!
If it would benefit you or any other, I will copy my plans for my design in detail>
Thanks for the info!
I’ve got my plans 90% figured out, but seeing someone else’s never hurt. If you’ve got something quick, it may be nice, and I’m sure others would appreciate - but don’t worry about it if it’s too much work.
I was considering using liquid nails / wood glue / construction glue on parts of mine. There’s a few parts that I wouldn’t, because I need to be able to assemble in the bedroom (after constructing in the basement).
A few questions for you on yours:
- Did you use a bolted design on yours? (it looks like it)
- Where did you get the material for the fabric and nylon? I really like those ideas!
- What did you do about polyurethane? I’ve got some leftover from my recent projects, but I wasn’t sure if there’s anything special that should be done for a bed frame.
- Is there anything between the slats and the boards that they rested on?
- I’ve been debating between using 1x?? hardwood or 2x?? pine on the outside. Are those 1x’s?
Thanks!
Quote BChaps:
A few questions for you on yours:
- Did you use a bolted design on yours? (it looks like it)
- Where did you get the material for the fabric and nylon? I really like those ideas!
- What did you do about polyurethane? I’ve got some leftover from my recent projects, but I wasn’t sure if there’s anything special that should be done for a bed frame.
- Is there anything between the slats and the boards that they rested on?
- I’ve been debating between using 1x?? hardwood or 2x?? pine on the outside. Are those 1x’s?
*Reply Roosterfire:
1). I used a wide head wood screw/bolt approx 1/4" diameter shaft to hold oak, passing through the pine, tying it all together
2). `I bought the material on Amazon, there was wider material available since you are doing King size
Ivory sateen on the top, Black dust cover on the bottom, lined with 1" nylon webbing, fastened with 3/8" staples
3). The Ivory Sateen cover is a poly material specifically to let the mattress slide and not grab the fabric
4). Also from Amazon I used thin cotton batting to go between the slats and the Ivory Sateen
5). I used all 1" material without regret, it is lighter without sacrificing strength due to glue, screws and wood configuration.
Visual art is not my strong point, but it is legible.
Thanks for that.
Looking forward to starting my build next weekend
I decided to go the simpler 2x4 route instead of the 1x6 + 1x4 that you have. And I’m not sure if I’ll put any fabric on the under-side.
Here’s my basic plans - I’ll probably upload some WIP & Finished pics in case others have questions as well.
Very nice, and extremely close to the plans I derived. Much better graphics 8-P
I would love to see your finished work. Good vibes and happy building.
https://www.mattressbyappointment.com/new-serta-pivot-adjustable-bed/
I received this foundation from someone a few days ago as a gift(still need in package). I have a traditional wooden bed frame with an inch or so lip on each side to hold slats up to then put box springs/mattress on. This adjustable foundation is heavy so I’m having a hard time finding the best solution for extra support when setting it into the bed frame with our heavy latex mattress and 2 bodies on top. I saw some metal slats with legs built into them but getting enough of those to keep to the 3-5" gap for slats would be too expensive. I’m searching for it but struggling with what terms to even search for.
I changed my design very slightly from the originally uploaded plans. I think the only key difference is that I used 2x6 for the long pieces that ran down the sides rather than 2x4s. I still used 2x4s for the side-to-side ones at the head/foot.
My general process is outlined here. If anyone is trying to do something similar, and has questions, feel free to ask
Process:
[ul]
[li]Buy Wood (obviously)[/li]
[li]Construction:[ul]
[li]Cut things to length based on my CAD model[/li]
[li]Dill bolt holes & counter-bore holes in boards[/li]
[li]Bolt all boards/legs together (except for middle runners) - See Bed_Initial Attachment[/li]
[li]Sand everything[/li]
[li]Glue the side-panels in place - See Bed_Clamp Attachment[/li]
[li]Sand everything[/li]
[li]Remove head/foot boards from legs[/li][/ul][/li]
[li]Paint:[ul]
[li]I did a few coats of a white stain - See Bed_Stain Attachment[/li]
[li]I did 3 coats of polyurethane (use water-based so that it doesn’t yellow over time)[/li][/ul][/li]
[li]Assembly:[ul]
[li]Bolt the panels back to the legs - See Bed_Frame Attachment[/li]
[li]Lay Velcro over where the slats will run[/li]
[li]Lay down the slats, and add velcro to the underside - See Bed_Slats Attachment[/li]
[li]Staple a sheet of some sort down taught over the slats (just staple the corners) - I used a cheap bedspread[/li]
[li]Run nylon webbing around the perimeter and staple down (keeping the sheet taught) - See Bed_Final Attachment[/li][/ul][/li][/ul]
Notes:
[ul]
[li]This was designed so that it can be disassembled and moved if needed[/li]
[li]I used carriage bolts, so that we ended with no visible hardware[/li]
[li]The side panels are only held to the 2x4s / 2x6s with wood glue[/li]
[li]I added some brackets to the lower portions of the panels, to help hold things in-place and push/pull the panels to be flush with each other.[/li][/ul]
Oh…and if you want more close-up pics, I tweeted stuff out as I did it, so, here’s that thread:
https://twitter.com/BChapy/status/1226246593264967680
I was eagerly awaiting your finished result.
Excellent!