Default Tick: 2039(n) - (stretch knit)
Warranty: F – (15 years nonprorated)
Thickness: 13.5
Quilt Pattem: sm 4 star (12’)
S72 foam encasement package
Spinal Zone T/S (Patented lumbar zone support on spring unit)
NP-250 PAD E/S (chasen pad over spring unit)
1" 1350 Poly GS – (1.3 density, 50 ILD convoluted CertiPure® foam pad under pillow top)
7/8" 1230 Poly T/S (same but in 1.2 density and 30 ILD)
INNERTOPPER *
2.5" Talalay Latex T/S – 2.5" Euro Pillow Top (6lb density latex foam in a 24 ILD Talalay Latex in the pillow top)
FR FOAM ENCASE MATT BOTTOMS (FR pad and the bottom matt of the mattress that goes with a foam encased spring unit)
ONE SIDED QUILT - (poly foam quilting foam)
Border Type: 9" .5 FR
Tape Edge: GOLD DOBI
As you can see, it is basically a spring unit with lumbar zone support topped with convoluted Certipure foam - two layers in two densities and then the pillow top with 2.5" of 6 lb. density 24 ILD talalay latex topped by the quilting and fire retardent pad of thisle and rayon (no chemical sprays - this is a natural pad).
Let me know if you have any other questions. If you are looking for something specific, we are a manufacturer and can make it with the materials you need to be in it."
If longevity and durability are not important to you and your body likes how it feels by all means purchase it. WIth that being said, I would never buy a non flippable mattress simply because they do not last. The foam used in the upper layers is of very low quality. I would find something that does not use less than 1.8 density foam. I recommend buying a flippable mattress than adding a separate pillow top covering over it that way when the pillow top wears you just replace that instead of the whole sleep set. Just out of curiosity what are they asking for this mattress?
k. drat. yeah, i knew that 1.3 was gonna be killer. next! (and they’re asking 1.9 for it).
Any recs for a nice flippable coil mattress? (although i do see one at Comfort Sleep Systems and plan on looking into the makeup of that mattress soon. it’s in the list)
is there a thread here on super fantastic pillowtops? : ). As in, ones over $500, really pleasurable ones. Ones worth saving up for.
I bought from a local manufacture in Holland Michigan called Buis as I didn’t trust the big corporate ones! I pick up my new mattress on Thursday but just for a reference my mattress is flippable, contains 12 gauge inner spring construction, and 2.8 density foam and it was less than $1500 for the mattress and box spring. I really liked the feel of 2.8 density over the 1.8 density in the lower model and think you will too. My best advise I can give, is definitely get a flippable mattress and if you like the pillow top just add one separate. Best bet is to find a local manufacture, but if you can’t you may either have to make a drive (like I did) or buy online. If you want call Buis in Michigan he makes a nice range of good quality pillow toppers that I’m sure he could ship out to you for a reasonable cost.
Thanks. and Buis is totally on my list for mattresses. Sadly he’s on the ‘can’t get to list’, but i’ll look into him for toppers. thanks. : ). I think i looked into him after seeing a recent post of yours.
i just emailed jamestown custom mattresses for location info actually, like 10 minutes ago. :D.
Part of the value of a mattress is it’s PPP (Pressure relief, Posture and alignment, and Personal preferences) but if this is accomplished using lower density or durability materials then the PPP that you paid for won’t last very long and as the lower quality materials soften and break down you will more quickly lose the comfort and support that you paid for and what was inside your “ideal” range when it was new will more quickly cross the threshold into the “not suitable” range for PPP. You can’t feel the quality of the materials in a mattress … it just determines how a mattress will feel years down the road.
I use a guideline of no more than an inch or so of lower density foam (1.5 lbs and lower) in the upper layers of a one sided mattress as a durability guideline. This is particularly true in the price ranges you are talking about (if you meant $1900). In lower budget mattresses of course you will also find lower quality materials even though there will still be differences in relative durability (for example 1.5 lb foams will be more durable than 1.0 lb polyfoam) and here expecially a two sided construction will make a significant difference. Softness and thickness are also durability factors along with the position of the foam in the mattress. In this case there is almost 2" of 1.3 and 1.2 lb polyfoam which is not “horrible” (many are worse) but is more than I would like to see or would personally buy for a durable mattress in this price range. In this case the lowest durability materials are also on top where they will be more stressed and break down more easily.
I am not as personally “adamant” about two sided constructions because higher quality foams in a pillowtop can also be a very durable construction (although they’re not very common in the larger market) and there is some design flexibility that a one sided design makes possible that is more restricted in a two sided mattress where thick layers of softer foam would need to be on the bottom of the mattress. There are also other types of construction where individual layers can be replaced in a one sided mattress instead of replacing the complete mattress but a two sided mattresses will certainly extend the lifespan of even higher quality more durable foams or materials and help them wear more evenly and they are certainly a “value” or “durability” bonus when the overall design goal makes it possible.
If you were to change some things in this construction, what would it be? They mentioned to me that they could make it with materials of my choice. And since i’m also thinking of going down the avenue of a custom mattress, what would you change? Just bump the densities/qualities of the foams?
Thanks!!
Athough i’ll soon be asking you a somewhat similar question on another post, about ideal different materials, but here i’m thinking of what adjustments would be good be for this matty.
In terms of quality and durability I would change the lower quality foam with higher quality foam or at least reduce the thickness of the lower quality foam to an inch or less (both of which may change the feel and performance of the mattress).
In terms of support and comfort and the suitability of the new layering for your needs and preferences… you would need to make sure you tested the new design for PPP (Pressure relief, Posture and alignment, and Personal preferences) so you could make sure that it was close to your “ideal” or at the very least make sure that you still had some good options after a purchase if the new layers needed to be changed.
I would also want to know the details of the innerspring and the cover if you wanted to make more meaningful value comparisons with other mattresses.
How do they change the layers of a coil mattress? unstitch, untuft and just add new layers? that’s great, it would be so bad to get a custom mattress and hate it. :D.
(not that i’m def. getting custom, but in my now ‘marathon not a sprint’ quest for a mattress i am simultaniously researching bot pre and custom-made).
You can also see some of my thoughts about Chiromatic in post #7 here (which I linked to a different and duplicate post in another one of my replies to you).
If they were making a custom design before you purchased it they would just make the new design from the beginning. If a manufacturer offers the option to make an adjustment after a purchase, then yes … they would open up the mattress, remove and replace layers or components, and then sew up the cover again. This is not something that every manufacturer even offers so if you were buying a mattress that you hadn’t tested then you would need to make sure that this was even a possibility.