Really amazing site with tons of info. Inspired by this forum I want to build my own mattress and wondered if there is any measurement info on zoning. Specifically; are there any distances formulas for the separation lines of the zones and the size based on the size of the sleeper? Maybe a sheet or something? I saw this image of flobeds
and wondered what the separator distances would be based on the length of the sleeper.
Also is there any reference which IDL is called soft, medium, firm & xfirm etc?
I’m really interested of an answer on this one also. I have dialed my latex mattress in for my wife’s side as her hips and shoulders seem to go well on a single soft 19ILD top layer but for me it seems there’s a good chance I’ll need something firmer under my hips for more support but softer under my shoulders to avoid shoulder and upper back discomfort.
We started zoning layers of Talalay Latex in 2001, and our zoned latex mattress has evolved quite a bit since the days of laminating different densities in the search of a one firmness/ zone fits all fix. What we learned is, everyone is built differently and their mattresses should be too. Our vZone layer is highly adjustable, as far as firmness goes, and zone placement.
Here is a link to our ild firmness chart , toward the bottom of that page you’ll find the ild of each of our firmnesses.
I’ve attached all four of our vZone builds, you’ll note the “plush” density is not on our chart,as it has not been updated yet, for reference that is an 18ild.
Each vZone can be adjusted to firm up the lumbar or hip, by switching them with the knees or foot. Furthermore, you can request any density for any zone in the first 100 nights and we ship it out free of charge, nothing to return, no cost at all. The value in the ability to micro tune the firmness level from head to toe has proven itself in our sales and return rate. We very rarely get the request for a return in this model, as its too easy for us to get it “just right” for the customer. So long as our customers listen to there body, and we listen to them, together we get both the support and comfort levels right, more times than not.
Thanks a lot for this extensive reply on IDL; that part is totally clear now. Maybe you can also shine some light on the measurements/distances?
Based on the separating lines drawn on the pictures it looks like the mattress has been split into 4 1/8 sections and 2 1/4 sections. I went on to measure it in relation to a 200cm bed and my 180+ cm length with a 25 cm 1/8th size which seemed to fit properly. Is this correct? And if a person would be shorter would then the part size of 25cm in an optimal situation be reduced and some extra space be added on top & bottom so the zoned distance is adapted to fit the sleeper?
Welcome to the TMU Forum . Thanks for your kind words on the site and for your question.
Congrats on starting your DIY mattress project :cheer: ! See that you had questions for expert Trusted Member FloBeds, hope you and consumer @silverbull found their answers helpful. Thanks too @FloBeds for the quick response.
Looking forward to hearing more about your progress, feel free to keep us updated on how things go.
Hi szleep,
The Head, shoulder, lumbar and knee are all 10" sections that are of course interchangeable. While the hip and the foot sections are 18.5". (for Queen, King, and Twin long) We also put a 2.5" spacer at the head of the bed, allowing for a customer to move the spacer to the foot, to shift all the zones toward the head by 2.5".
I hope that helps!
Awesome, it helps a lot. Thank you! I assume your top layer is the 16IDL convoluted layer and is 3" thick as the 12" total height is evenly distributed over the 4 layers of each 3"?
Good Morning Szleep,
Our top layer is a 14ild convoluted latex topper, it is 2" thick. Our 12" mattresses are made up of three 3" layers, and one 2" layer, (11" of latex) The organic cotton & wool mattress encasement adds another inch, making the finished height 12" .
Excellent chart layout. I’ve just started playing with zoning and wish I had seen this weeks ago. So if I understand correctly your top layer is not zoned then the zoning begins? How many layers do you zone? A side view image of the vertical stack orientation would be nice.
Yeah I need to move my zoning down a layer. It took care of my misalignment back pain, but now I’ve got some pressure point issues. Much easier to deal with PP than alignment.
. Thanks for your kind words on the site and for your question.