Suport options for storage bed

Hello all,

I’m new to the forum, but I’ve been lurking for a couple months while I researched an upcoming latex mattress purchase. The information I’ve gleaned here has helped a lot. I’ve decided to get an eastern king sleep-ez 9" natural select sleep, as it seems to me to offer the best in terms of being all-latex and providing plenty of options to alter firmness should the wife or myself be unsatisfied initially.

That being said, my wife found a bedroom set that she liked, on sale, so we ordered it first. The bed is an eastern king Torino Storage bed from Overstock.com We had an old 4-poster that was very high, even with a low profile 5" box under the mattress. We wanted something lower since we have a 2yo and my wife is pregnant with our 2nd. Once we got it home and put together, we realized that with a 5" box, this bed was really only about 1-2" lower than the original. The lip on which the slats sit is 17" off the ground.

Upon assembling the bed, I immediately noticed that the slats that came with it are too far apart, and appear to be too flimsy for a latex mattress. Beyond that, the support structure below the slats does not run along the center, but instead consists of 6 supports, in 2 rows, each row 1/3 of the way across the width of the bed. Lastly, the storage portion of the bed is a set of 2 drawers in the foot-board. They extend into the area under the bed, and are slightly taller than the lip for the slats. This means that the area where I can put slats only extends 64", not the 80" full length of the bed. Below are some pics of the bed showing the whole bed, the slats and supports, a closeup of the slats (which appear to be cheap plywood), and then a close-up of me flexing the slat with a single finger.

The end goal is to provide proper support for a latex mattress, without adding much to the height of the bed. With that in mind, even a 5" foundation is not an option. Also, having just bought the bedroom set, planning on a quality mattress, and a new baby coming, I need to keep costs low. A $600 foundation, like some I’ve seen, is not really a viable option.

So, I know I have to change the support structure in some way and I think I have 4 viable (possibly) options:

  1. Add more (stronger) slats between the current ones and run 4 slats head-to-foot underneath, 1 on each side of the support legs, to tie everything together and prevent sagging. My gut tells me this would not be strong enough since the existing slats are so flexible, but I don’t really know.
  2. Put some type of 2" foundation or bunky board (not a solid one) over the current setup, perhaps with additional slats added as well.
  3. Buy wood to make all new slats, or buy a set of slats and not use all of them (since I’m not going the whole 80"). If I do this, I know I’ll have to also build a spine down the middle, with support legs. You can also see in the photos that the headboard does not drop down level with the rest of the frame, so I may have to add a cross-beam there.
  4. Build a complete box foundation (like a mini platform bed) to fit within the bed frame.

I’d appreciate any tips or advice on this type of job. I searched the foundation thread and the rest of the forum, but didn’t see a similar issue covered.

Thanks,
James

P.S. I tried to post this a couple times, and it didn’t show up. I realized the pics were too large, so this time I shrunk them within the 800 pixel limit and tried again. Sorry if it ends up a triple post. Admin please delete the others with the oversize photos if it is.

Hi jeubank,

I would agree that your current support surface wouldn’t be a good choice for a latex mattress.

I’m not quite clear on how you would secure the longitudinal support slats or what would prevent them from flexing. Given the flex of the slats you have this probably wouldn’t be the best solution.

If you were to use something like the slat conversion kit here (you can see the prices in post #6 here) on top of your current slats it would probably work well.

This would be a suitable solution as well but I would definitely add the center support beam and make sure that it has good support to the floor.

This would also be a suitable solution as well.

You can also turn your current slats into T-slats to help prevent flexing but you would still need to add additional slats to reduce the gaps in between them.

Phoenix

Thanks for the response Phoenix

I would have them vertical (like the t-slat linked), however they would run head to foot along all slats. I figure wood screws to the slats. The legs seems thin enough I don’t really want to drill holes into them, but I don’t know if it would really be necessar .

To make sure I’m understanding the idea completely, if I were to make new slats from stronger wood, all as t-slats, would I still need center support running along all slats, or would they be rigid enough? I guess I could add 3 legs along the middle, evenly spaced to a few individual slats, to brace it somewhat. As I said, price is a concern, but I’d rather spend a little more than I need to on a build to make sure I don’t ruin an $1800 mattress.

Hi jeubank3,

I don’t think that this is the option I would choose but if was considering it I would probably secure each end of the center support beams to something solid at each end (such as the cross brace you mentioned in option #3) so they would provide load bearing support support for the slats. I would probably also want good support to the floor underneath them with a span that long (using T-Slats with the wide surface down under two of the support beams would give you something to attach the legs to) and you would also need to add more slats on top so that the spacing between them was less.

I’m probably not the best person to ask for advice because don’t have any personal experience with using them so I’m not sure how they would do with a span that long but I “think” that if they were all T-Slats they would probably be strong enough without center support although I would probably be tempted to add the legs in the middle as well to take some of the load off the side ledges.

I would probably be tempted to use the slat conversion kit mainly because it would be the simplest solution (and partly because it would save me from a “construction” job :))

Phoenix

Ok, I think I’ve found what I’m going to do, I just want one last bit of guidance, if you’ll indulge me. Tracked down the knickerbocker lazarbeam on the sleep shop. Afterwards I saw where you had mentioned it to a few folks on here, Phoenix. When I saw the size of it, I figured it would be a perfect solution for a center beam that would be easy to add in the without lots of drilling into the bed frame. My idea now is to get that, add a couple risers beneath to get the height to 17", and then build a simple slat system to go over it. I figure I can inspect it after a short period of use and add T sections to the slats if there’s too much flexing. Unless you tell me I’m overlooking something obvious, which I’ve been known to do, I’m going to start ordering everything next week.

Thanks again for all your help.

James

Hi jeubank3,

The Lazarbeam Bed Support is generally meant to be used under a foundation or bunkie board but I don’t see any reason that it wouldn’t work directly under slats as long as …

A. if you are using slats that are half the width of the bedframe that there is a way to secure the inside end of the slats to the Lazerbeam to prevent them from shifting or alternatively use slats that are long enough to go across the complete span of the bedframe over the Lazerbeam.

B. The slats are strong enough and close enough together to prevent any sagging in the slats themselves and prevent any sagging into the gaps in between the slats.

C. You are OK with the slats on the top and bottom of the bedframe being unsupported in the middle (unless you put center legs under them) because the Lazerbeam doesn’t go from the top to the bottom of the bedframe. While the center of the support surface would be well supported which is where most of your weight would be concentrated … you may need to use T-Slats for the unsupported slats in the top and bottom of the bedframe.

D. You are OK with the higher costs involved compared to the slat conversion system which should also do a suitable job,

Phoenix

Another inexpensive premade option is Ikea. They have a few varieties of inexpensive slats that you could screw into your existing frame. Bed Slats - Slatted Bed Bases - IKEA

I actually looked at the lonset as an option, but since the box for the drawers at the foot comes as high as the slats, I didn’t know if it would interfere with the system. My thoughts are that if it did, I could either cut the side supports shorter (voiding warranty for the foundation for sure, and possibly the mattress) or installing only some of the slats and leaving off the bottom cross brace. I still would have to add a central support beam, as this bed did not come with one. Currently I’ve ordered the lazarbeam, and gone to Home depot and had 8 poplar slats cut to the correct width (1"x3"77.5"). My plan now is to leave the existing slats with the 6 legs (I figure legs will be stronger than open beams or t slats), add the lazarbeam underneath them to have a spine in the middle, and put the poplar slats in the gaps between current ones. with everything in place, there will be 17 slats, with approximately 1.3" gaps between. The poplar slats will have to span about 36", bed-rail to spine. Of the 9 existing pine slats, 6 will have a 36" span, and the 3 with support legs in the middle will have 18" unsupported spans. The more I thought about the support structure, the more I figured the additional legs will be beneficial. If I put the mattress on and see any sag in the unsupported slats, I can replace the pine with poplar, and/or make t-slats.

Cost out the door, so far, is $75.19 for the poplar. If I have to replace unsupported pine, it will add another $56.75. If I need to make t-slats, it will add another $40.88. That brings my total possible expense to $172.82, as opposed to the $200 I was quoted for the pine slat conversion system, not including shipping. Also, it will be mostly poplar instead of pine and have 3 additional legs to distribute the weight to the floor and keep it off the bed frame. I’m not including cost of the lazarbeam, since I would have to add that with either system.

I’ll update again when I get everything in place and get the mattress ordered.

Hi jeubank3,

[quote] I’m not including cost of the lazarbeam, since I would have to add that with either system.

I’ll update again when I get everything in place and get the mattress ordered. [/quote]

You wouldn’t need the lazerbeam with either the Ikea system or the flobeds slat conversion kit but your plans certainly sound like they will provide a very solid support surface that has good ventilation.

I’m looking forward to your comments and feedback when it’s all done … and thanks for sharing your project with the forum :slight_smile:

Phoenix

I’m a bit confused on this one. From looking online, it seems that the Ikea system is essentially 2 twin-xl foundations laid side-by-side. Likewise, the beam on the slat conversion kit runs down the center, meaning the pressure point for it would be down the center as well. I figure there would have to be some type of support in the center for either of those, otherwise, if the current slats were left in place, all the redistributed weight would be on the side rails and at the center of the current slats, which have no support in the center, or just in midair if I took out the current slat system.

Hi jeubank,

The legs in the center of your platform bed in combination with the frame of either the Ikea system or the slat conversion kit should provide enough center support to prevent any sagging…

Phoenix

I apologize for bumping this old topic, but I have done quite a bit of research on this, so I want to share my experience.
This forum has been a great resource and I wanted to contribute a little bit - mostly cause I could not find exact examples of what I was shooting for.

I wanted a bed that would accommodate Mrs. Manfu when she chooses to join which is only about 10% of the time. The rest is solo camping/moto hauling. Although the bike will always ride out back, (Versa Hauler) during solo trips I did not want the bed to take up the entire back of the rig. I like using the back doors as well as having more room on the inside.

Frame - 1x4 was plenty strong. Final dimensions are 80 x 35 like this https://10restbest.com/best-storage-beds



Hi Usinan.

Welcome to our Mattress Forum! :slight_smile:

Thank you for your appreciation for our site and for taking the time to contribute and post the photos of your DIY very storage bed. I am sure that those looking for space savers would find these visuals very useful.

Be prepared for questions.:wink: (I hope you subscribed to the thread)

Phoenix