Simmons Beautyrest Mattress Rebuild

I’m posting this because the way current major mattress manufacturers are creating throw away products and charging outrageous prices in the process is putting the consumer at a major disadvantage. I wanted to create a DIY page just to document what I did to fix my mattress in the hope others can save big $$$ by doing something similar themselves. The problem is that no matter the amount of money you’re willing to spend these days, in many cases you can’t even buy a good quality mattress anymore. The marketing makes it almost impossible to compare what you are actually buying and in many cases it’s seriously inferior to mattresses made even a decade ago. There’s probably not alot of people who would dare cut apart an expensive mattress that is only a few months old but in the end it actually turned out even better than I could have imagined.

The problem I ran into is that as a big guy (I’m 6’2 and 250 lbs) and my wife a foot shorter and half my weight, we have dramatically different mattress preferences. The problem boils down to density of each person (not overall weight or height). Think of it like 2 identical size bowling balls but the weights are very different. The heavier ball will obviously sink further into the mattress than the lighter one or said another way, the lighter bowling ball will find the same mattress firmer than the heavier one. We bought a Simmons Beautyrest Gavin Eurotop mattress around 8 months ago after our prior Kingsdown mattress (from Sears) we used for 8 years started giving me lower back problems. The new Simmons mattress wore out very fast and caused such hip pain I had trouble sitting or even rolling out of bed. So instead of just buying a new mattress I decided to modify the one we had just bought so that it actually works as intended for the long haul.

Here’s the mattress we got (king was around $2100 + tax) :
https://www.sleepcountry.ca/simmons-beautyrest-imperial-collection-gavin-v-mattress/product/81961M

One of the keys I found in the past was to make sure to stick to (core) innerspring mattresses since they tend to be more durable for larger folks like me. We originally started out with a firm version of the Beautyrest Gavin mattress but even after using (2) 3" layers of soft dunlop latex on top I was still not able to both get support as well as relieve the pressure points on the hip and shoulder (it was either or but never achieved both). It was obvious that something was too stiff on that mattress (I’m a back and side sleeper). On the Simmons Beautyrest higher end models evidently they do change the coil spring gauge between models. Sleep Country gives you a 100 day trial so after nearly 90 days we exchanged it for the Luxury Firm (middle softness) as the Plush (softest) was clearly not providing the support I needed even after trying it for just 30 minutes in the store. So we have been sleeping on the Luxury Firm (Eurotop) version with a 3" soft (20 ILD) dunlop latex topper and it has been fairly decent until recently it began to break down and create depressions after being just a few months old. You could see depressions forming but often I would roll from side to back to side again many times during the night. One night I was especially tired and slept entirely on my side only to wake up almost paralyzed from pain of being bent sideways all night at the hip joint (clearly a support problem). I tried to use pillows to help separate my legs or prop up my hips the second night but nothing worked and the pain was getting worse. I barely slept a wink and once morning came the engineer in me said enough is enough and I was determined to fix this properly once and for all. The scariest part is that as bad as the mattress was it was nowhere near being able to qualify for warranty since the bed needs to have 1.5" of depression before it is considered no good and that’s only if they don’t find a technicality (wrong bed support / box spring, staining on bed, etc) to get out of the warranty too.

Having already rebuilt my box springs to be solid (glued 2x4 and 1/2" plywood, recovered in the box spring fabric) I knew the box spring was flat and definitely not causing my body alignment issue. First thing I did was to start pulling apart the seams so I could see how the mattress was constructed and hopefully see what needed to be corrected for our situation. This video below is a great help in seeing how they manufacture them as well as disassembly. If you watch at the 7:50 mark you’ll see how just cutting a few stitches and pulling on the thread at the seam causes it to come apart like a zipper.

On first impression I was pretty stunned they charge $2100 for this sort of construction, I expected to see alot more memory foam technology in there. Second, what I found was that the mattress was built in 2 main parts; the base and the Euro/Pillow top. The firm mattresses only have a base and are often matched with a stiffer coil innerspring system. Once it was opened up it was very obvious that the Eurotop on my mattress had failed. When you pinch this 2" layer of foam (felt like very light poly foam, there definitely wasn’t any memory to it at all) between your fingers it provides almost no resistance to compression (unlike my latex topper). Most the the foam/fabric inside are either glued or stapled together so when separating things make sure to get your hand into the joint and use your fingers to help separate the parts. If you just pull the foam it will rip apart leaving big chunks you’ll have to clean up later. The staples are splayed at the ends but can be pulled out and discarded. You can use a contact adhesive to stick any foam/fabric you need back together during assembly or sew zippers on both size to make servicing easier later.

Mattress top seam

Foam from Eurotop

New 3" Dunlop (20 ILD) latex topper installed


Eurotop seam

Separation between base layer and Eurotop

Base layer with covers removed

Pocket coil innersprings inside base layer

Once I checked the level of the base layer foam it looked straight (no depressions and good resistance to pressure) as did the pocket coils under it. So all I did was to remove the Eurotop foam and replace it with the king size 3" dunlop (20 ILD) latex foam (mine came from Sleep on Latex but I’m sure there’s many sources of quality latex foam). Once I did that within 2 days my hip was perfect again and I slept so soundly it was like I was staying at a hotel. The bed is now very supportive yet provides just enough cushion to remove any pressure points (just like a hotel bed does). I was a bit worried about it being too hard for my wife but she was also very happy with the change and said it slept much better than before. The best part about it was that it really wasn’t a very hard job at all to do and the good night’s sleep you get is worth every penny. Later if something still bothers you or your spouse the mattress is fully tuneable so you can unzip it and tailor the feel exactly to each of your preferences (different firmness side/side or even create zones).

I’m currently working on sewing on #5 YKK zipper tape to close the seams on the mattress cover and make it all look like factory while still allowing me to tune the mattress in the future as needed. I’ll post pics of that once I complete that step as well. I have the zipper tape and HD Singer Sewing Machine on order now (call me crazy but I like a good challenge). Overall super happy with how it all came out so far and really hope this helps someone else do the same.

Thank you for posting your experience. I have a whole website dedicated to just this topic along with several videos showing how to take apart various mattresses - www.diymattress.net I also show how to fix the mattresses using latex foam as a replacement for the cheaper polyfoam. The reason I push getting a mattress with a zippered cover is obvious now to you, it makes it easy to change things out in the future.

Hey Mattrebuild,

Welcome to the Mattress Underground forum :slight_smile:

We bought a Simmons Beautyrest Gavin Eurotop mattress around 8 months ago after our prior Kingsdown mattress (from Sears) we used for 8 years started giving me lower back problems. The new Simmons mattress wore out very fast and caused such hip pain I had trouble sitting or even rolling out of bed. So instead of just buying a new mattress I decided to modify the one we had just bought so that it actually works as intended for the long haul.

Thanks for sharing the excellent instructions, pics and process from your DIY mattress rebuild project, you definitely put a great deal of research and thought into the redesign.

Once I checked the level of the base layer foam it looked straight (no depressions and good resistance to pressure) as did the pocket coils under it. So all I did was to remove the Eurotop foam and replace it with the king size 3" dunlop (20 ILD) latex foam (mine came from Sleep on Latex but I’m sure there’s many sources of quality latex foam). Once I did that within 2 days my hip was perfect again and I slept so soundly it was like I was staying at a hotel. The bed is now very supportive yet provides just enough cushion to remove any pressure points (just like a hotel bed does).

Thanks too for your support of TMU trusted member Sleep On Latex. All of our manufacturer/ retail members have the knowledge and experience to help their customers make informed buying decisions and are among the best choices in the industry.

For future reference, I’m renaming your post to “DIY, latex- Simmons Beautyrest Mattress Rebuild” and moving it to the General Mattresses Questions forum so others searching the DIY topics will find your research more easily…

Cheers,
Sensei

I can certainly agree with the OP’s assessment of the current state of the mattress industry. We had a Serta king that was causing much pain and suffering. Inspired by Ken Hightower’s mattress rebuild videos, I undertook a DIY rebuild using Arizona Premium components. Serta Rebuild The rebuild has been mostly successful over the past year or so, although the hard foam surrounding the pocket coils has begun to break down. Ken Hightower suggested replacing the pocket coils with latex, which we’ll probably do in the not too distant future. The old Serta foundations are sagging with the heavier weight of the latex and will also need to be beefed up or replaced. A DIY mattress rebuild can seem like a daunting task, but in reality isn’t too hard even for an old duffer like me! Hope your Simmons turns out as well as our Serta.

Well looks like my journey is continuing because although the mattress does feel better I’m still having trouble with support issues (which are definitely in the base layer). There are also still some depressions appearing on the top of the mattress as things wear in which also make sense given the support problem. I tore into the base layer further and found that for some reason there is some support going right across the middle of the bed (not in the torso areas you’d expect to find support for comfort reasons). The supports are composed of 2 wire reinforced webbing straps and a piece of 1/4" latex foam over the top of it. The webbing is glued and stapled to the foam surrounding the coil springs in the base layer.

Foam on Base

Latex 1/4" sheet

Webbing straps

Once I had it all apart I had to experiment with how to reattach the foam until I could get the supplies I needed to fix the issue. I found the 3M makes a great contact adhesive for foam which works extremely well. It’s called 3M Foam Fast 74 Spray Adhesive (make sure to get the low VOC clear version unless you don’t mind fumes or bright orange foam). It’s quite expensive stuff and not very forgiving (be very careful, it sticks very aggressively) but you can join just about any foam (latex, poly, memory foam) with ease and it will be super strong and you can’t feel the seam afterwards. Once dry it has foam tearing strength so only use it where you want a permanent foam bond.

3M Foam Fast 74 low VOC

So now I have to look at whether the base foam/springs may be the issue as well on this bed and if so should I try another innerspring replacement from somewhere like APMC such as the QE Bolsa or go right to building a latex core (easy to make a very expensive mistake here) in order to ensure good support on the base layer?

Phoenix, Ken and others, I’m certainly open to ideas on what might work best. I just ask to keep in mind I’m a 6’2 250 lbs back/side sleeper and my wife is only 5’2 and 125 lbs but side/back sleeper as well, so the mattress will likely need a significantly different design for each side (ie built as separate twin XLs). I think fixing this Simmons design at this point is a bit like trying to put lipstick on a pig so I’m open to trying more radical fixes in order to get this done right. I also have both a 3" soft (20ILD) dunlop topper as well as a 2" medium (28 ILD) talalay topper I can use to experiment with as well but happy to buy whatever I need to get this tuned perfectly for both of us.

I see many selling very thick core layers 4-6" but considering they are expensive and hard to return would I be better off just building up using say 1" or 2" dunlop layers of different ILD rates to get the support I feel works best then add the top layer that relieves pressure the best or is there a reason for using a solid thick base layer?

I think it’s time to walk away from this project. All that poly foam will just cause more problems down the road. BTW that 1/4" over the webbing is NOT latex based on the pictures you provided. My suggestion is to get one of our Firm DIY dunlop base cores in TwinXL for your side and a Medium for her side and then use the other 2 latex toppers you do have over the top of those cores. This way her side is softer than yours. If she likes it really plush then get the Soft core instead of the medium. You won’t need to use the adhesive because the latex layers will stick to each other quite well and that gives you the option to change things around later

So I spoke with Ken from APM for a while about what might work best and I really appreciate his experience and advice on how best to approach my situation. I explained that the issue I was having is that it feels like the support core is the issue (lower back and hip pain with the current setup). He suggested that since I was used to innerspring mattresses already that using the Combi-Zone Pocket Coil would be a great choice along with a 3" dunlop or talalay topper tailored to each person’s needs (since my wife and I are very different sizes). So I’ve put my order in with Ken for a new innerspring core and I’ll report back on how it feels and any additional tweaks I might have to make.

Hey Mattrebuild

Thanks for the check in and update :slight_smile: !

So I spoke with Ken from APM for a while about what might work best and I really appreciate his experience and advice on how best to approach my situation. I explained that the issue I was having is that it feels like the support core is the issue (lower back and hip pain with the current setup). He suggested that since I was used to innerspring mattresses already that using the Combi-Zone Pocket Coil would be a great choice along with a 3" dunlop or talalay topper tailored to each person’s needs (since my wife and I are very different sizes).

Appreciate the positive feedback on @KenHightower’s support, his deep experience in this category and commitment to helping consumers make the best possible choices underscores the value Arizona Premium Mattress adds to our Expert Trusted Member program.

So I’ve put my order in with Ken for a new innerspring core and I’ll report back on how it feels and any additional tweaks I might have to make.

Looking forward to hearing your updates, Mattrebuild.

Cheers,
Sensei

I figured I would finally update this thread since this is really geared towards helping others that may be struggling on how to fix their own bed or perhaps how to create a good DIY bed. I wanted to start out by thanking Ken from APMC because his advice was fantastic. He never tried to up sell me anything I didn’t need and what he did suggest was spot on. As I mentioned I went with the Combi-Zone pocket coil by Leggett & Platt and he said this was literally the best spring foundation they make and honestly I believe him after seeing what junk Simmons had put for a foundation in my overpriced chain store mattress. I also asked if it was returnable and he said yes but good luck getting it back into the box (we both had a laugh about that). I can vouch for the fact that if you buy it, there ain’t no way it will go back in the box without a commercial roll packing machine. The good news was that the spring foundation was just the piece I was missing on my rebuild. Ken then suggested using my 3" soft (20 ILD) dunlop latex topper to finish it off (perhaps using a medium topper on my side if it was too soft).
I finally got the pocket coil foundation delivered and went about assembling my mattress that same day. I got rid of all the mattress innards (only keeping the mattress bottom and top covers). I have attached some pics of what the old mattress looks like inside and as you can see there are some serious quality issues with the spring and foam pieces. The stiffer twisted coil springs are only used on the very last rows on the front and back of the bed (in case you spin the mattress). The rest of the coils look to be very plain technology and even the temper on the springs caused them to be easily bent out of shape. The foam was very low quality (low density) and you can see what marks just a years worth of use caused. The foam on the sides was more dense but only in areas of the bed where you’d be sitting on the side, not under any of the sleeping surfaces. Don’t bother recycling the mattress yourself, it takes bloody forever to cut out all the coils and separate all the components.
The first night on the new setup was fantastic compared to the old arrangement. The alignment was vastly improved and for the first time in almost a year I had no hip or lower back pain at all (just a bit stiff in that area, presumably because it was healing). After a few days on it both my wife and I were still having issues with pressure (ie bed felt stiff, which made arms/shoulders sore). So I then took out an old 2" soft (20 ILD) talalay latex tapper I had originally bought about 5 years ago when I started this journey. After putting that on the pressure was much better but now my hips/lower back were hurting again. I thought there had to be a solution to this somehow. Then I realized that maybe because I didn’t have a zipper on the cover yet, that the cover might actually provide the stiffness I needed (ie the cover was an integral part of the mattress, turns out I was right). So I finally set about adding a zipper to the cover using YKK zipper tape…it’s ALOT harder than you’d think because the top is very bulky in a sewing machine. I suggest buying one pre-made but if you insist on DIY like I did you’ll need a heavy duty sewing machine like a Singer 4411, around 30ft of #5 heavy duty zipper tape and some heavy duty V46 polyester thread to stitch it all together (don’t forget to bring your mad sewing skills too). Finally it was all done but then I thought I would have another issue. At first I thought the cover wasn’t going to be deep enough (topper stuck around an inch above the edge of the cover but actually it worked perfectly. That little bit of pre-compression made the mattress just a bit stiffer and once I went to sleep on it I knew we had a winner. I felt like I was in a hotel bed now and the bed lies flat as can be with no humps at all. It’s firm yet still soft and comfortable no matter whether you’re back sleeping or side sleeping. So we are now very happy campers and wake up rested and relaxed each morning as it should be. Hopefully this helps others to solve their own mattress problems because what those big manufacturers are doing is borderline criminal but thank god for folks like Ken and others on TMU helping to get people the restful sleep everyone deserves.

Here’s a few more photos of the old mattress, I will put some up of the new mattress setup when I get a chance.

Glad my advice was put to good use and you were able to conquer this challenge.

I’ve attached some photos of the finished bed and you can see how I sewed the zipper onto the top and bottom to make the whole thing adjustable. I really like the design and I’m sure happy with how it all came out. Beats the pants off any chain store mattress or bed in a box you can buy online.

The only thing I did want to change was to see if there was any places that sold very thin latex toppers (say 1/2" or so). When I pick up the end of the mattress its a bit harder than it should be to manipulate because you feel the springs on your hand. If you could lay a very dense sheet (ILD 40-50) of 1/2" dunlop latex across the bottom I think it would be darn near perfect IMHO. If anyone knows where to get that thin of latex, I’d love to know.

Looks good, great job. Can’t help you on the 1/2" however. Might have to get polyfoam for that.

After quite some time I thought I would update everyone on some tweaks I’ve been making in trying to build myself the perfect mattress (for my needs). Now I did sleep on it for a a few months like I last updated earlier this year but eventually I ran into an issue yet again where I started to feel the springs on the base layer. Then of course Covid happened. So having spent good money on this pocket coil setup from APM I desperately tried various methods to engineer and make things work. I used more 3" soft (20 ILD) latex foam on top and this helped with feeling springs but then I ran into alignment issues again. So I also tried using various items under the latex layers like a plastic sheet (hockey shooting pad) or thin plywood and that still didn’t help the alignment. It soon became apparent that springs were not the right solution so I realized I would need to rethink this a bit. I thought about a solid latex mattress but then again the issue was trying different combos of ILDs which might work but finding the perfect setup could get costly and frustrating. Next I tried sleeping on a 6" thick camping air mattress right on the floor. This helped greatly with my alignment but it wasn’t super comfortable (mattress was blown up very stiff and created pressure point soreness). In order to try and solve it I took some stiff (40 ILD) latex foam and placed it over the top of the air mattress. Suddenly the mattress felt incredible, I knew I had hit on something that might be the final solution. So right now I have basically created a custom Sleep Number bed by taking the bottom part of an SN mattress (basically a complete C2 bed minus the mattress outer cover), I amassed all the parts I needed off eBay for a fraction of the price of a new Sleep Number. I’m in the process now of combining these with my own latex comfort layers to build the bed. This will allow me to adjust the air mattress firmness for alignment and also tailor the comfort layers to both mine an my wife’s needs independently. I’m still in the process of building it but I will post photos when I get it all finished. Anyway, I thought those that find this thread might be interested since it’s not fun waking up with a sore lower back/hips every morning.

It’s been a long journey to figure out what works best to get rid of the pain in my lower back/hips and more recently my shoulder as well. I can say I finally figured it out and it’s been a godsend to allow my body to start healing again. As I indicated in my last post the pocket coil layer just wasn’t working for me after trying to make 2 different designs work. So I scrapped the entire idea and decided to look at other options. After experimenting with an air bed I was able to get some immediate pain relief so I decided to go that route for my latest build. I also figured that having an adjustable layer would help tremendously in making the solution work for both my wife and I (since we are very different sizes) and this turned out to be key for a few reasons. It certainly took a while to source all the parts since I’m in Canada and obviously Covid makes it harder to get them across the border. Anyway, here’s my final design and I’m very happy with it.

The comfort portion of the mattress has 2 separate layers of Dunlop latex, a 2" layer of firm (ILD 44) that goes across the entire king bed and a 3" layer that is medium (ILD 30) on my side and soft (ILD 20) on my wife’s side. I got them all from Sleep on Latex but I did have to go through a few combos to figure out those worked best for our needs.

The base layer is essentially a Sleep Number setup with a custom foam border. The Sleep Number materials (air chambers, air pump and remote) all had to be bought used because SN does not sell new parts to anyone unless you already own one of their beds. Also the new SN 360 beds don’t have the hoses in the right place (since they now want you to buy their bases too) so you need to buy older parts to make this all work. If someone was doing this from scratch it might be easier to buy a used P5 (10" height) or P6 (11" height) to give you the parts you need to build the bed. The foam surround came from www.airbedrepair.com and I got both the surround as well as the foam that goes in between the two air chambers. The foam surrounds they offer are a much better design than what SN puts in their beds because it solves 2 important problems, lack of firmness and sides bowing. Their design is very firm and there’s no issue with the sides bowing because they are connected with fabric. You will need to make a hole in the fabric for the hoses to pass down through the bottom of the mattress near the headboard on each side. I just used a cutting board (protects the box spring below) and a sharp knife to slice the fabric/cover for the hoses to pass.

This shows the foam surround and one of the air chambers

Here’s the remote to control the pressure in each side

Now I sleep perfectly well all night and don’t wake up with anymore pain in my joints (still a bit stiff as I’m still recovering from being in pain so long). One big thing I noticed was that the settings I used for the air mattress are different when I’m on my back versus on my side. Most of the night I sleep on my side but in the morning if I want to look at my phone I need to adjust the bed to be comfortable in that position. I hope this writeup helps others to get to a place where they don’t experience pain anymore either.

Hey Mattrebuild,

Welcome back to the forum and thanks for your updates :slight_smile: !

For brevity, only the final paragraph of your post has been quoted here for comment. Excellent work on your DIY mattress, Mattrebuild! It sounds as though your patient process of trial and elimination of different materials and layerings have finally paid off; congrats on achieving a pain-free nights’ sleep :slight_smile: . Thanks for carefully documenting and sharing your process with product specs and pics, as well as details of the resulting efforts along each step of the way. You have demonstrated a good example of how performing extensive research, consulting reputable manufacturers (thanks @KenHightower AZ Premium Mattress for your support), and using a little creativity and patience finally paid big dividends in finding the balance of comfort and support you seek. Thanks too for your mentoring of other TMU DIYers as you have set a good example of how to comment using fact-based outcomes of a process rather than using emotionally -charged generalizations that don’t add value. Your DIY has been a year+ in the making and that’s a great deal of work; hope you enjoy many restful nights of sleep for your efforts :wink: .

Drop in with updates when you can, it would be nice to have an ongoing account of your project.

Thanks,
Sensei

Hi Sensei,

Glad you and others have enjoyed the build and hopefully others will also benefit from all the experimenting I did along the way. Funny you mention updates as just last night I made one more tweak to the bed on my side. It still felt a bit too firm on my side (I was still waking up somewhat stiff, it was not healing my hip/back as fast as I thought it should) so I tried my wife’s side two nights ago and it seemed to be just right so last night I decided to change my side to match hers. I did have to reset my Sleep Number again but after that I slept perfectly and woke up with no pain or stiffness. So now the bed has a comfort layer of 2" firm (ILD 44) underneath and a 3" soft (ILD 20) on top across the entire bed. If I make any more changes I’ll definitely be sure to update the thread but I think that last little change will likely be about as close to perfect for us as I can get under normal gravity.

I promised to keep updating this thread until I have found the magic sweet spot for both my wife and I so we can both get that perfect night’s sleep. She seems to have a low enough BMI that she doesn’t have any issue with almost any of the combos I tried for her since I switched the base to an air bed type. I must say I have been very happy with the ability to adjust alignment using the air mattress but the issue I’m still running into is the comfort layers. As a big curvy side sleeper no matter how I arrange the latex layers right now it just doesn’t seem to cradle me enough to get rid of all my hip/shoulder pain. I recently switched to a 3" soft (20ILD) over a 3" medium (30 ILD) and it feels great when I just lie on the bare latex but as soon as I zip up the mattress it seems to not conform as well and I end up with pressure issues again. If I let enough air out of the base to allow it to conform properly, then it starts to give me alignment problems which I feel again mostly in the hip area.

So at this point I can really only think of two possible ways to tackle it but I’m not sure at this point if the problem is the mattress ticking (cover) not stretching to allow the materials underneath to conform or if the latex comfort layer is just not conforming/supporting enough. I have been looking at the design of the Purple beds and I wish I could find someone with a used one that would let me experiment with that purple gel grid layer as well as their super flexible ticking (if Purple sold a mattress topper that would be ideal, but they don’t…at least yet). I also noted that Purple even sells special stretchy sheets and mattress protectors which some people have commented that it does make a difference. If Purple is THE most conforming bed and they feel it’s important to carry this stretchiness through all their layers, it really makes me think that maybe the upper layers (pillow top) on my bed are stopping it from conforming too. I also considered changing the upper comfort layer to a heavy duty memory foam (in either 4lb or 5lb versions) or possibly HQ polyfoam but I sleep so hot already I’d be very concerned about going that route. I also have not tried different ILD talalay latex layers (I have a very soft 2" talalay toper but not currently using it since it takes almost nothing to compress it) so that could be an option too. Obviously it gets very expensive to try lots of talalay latex combos since up in Canada it’s hard to return stuff to the US right now so I’d like to see if I can narrow down exactly what’s going on and find a targeted solution to the problem. I even looked at buying a body pressure monitoring system so I could visualize the problem but unless you are in the business of selling mattresses the prices are out of this world.

So does anyone know where to buy the stretchy knit mattress ticking you see on all the new mattresses (Purple, Tempurpedic, etc)? Looks like it is various compositions depending on the manufacturer but primarily it seems to be made of polyester, viscose (Rayon) and lycra (Spandex). I found alot of them on Alibaba but I don’t want to buy 200-500 meters of fabric just to experiment with. I thought about maybe buying a topper that comes with matching mattress ticking (such as what Layla sells) but that seems like a bit of an expensive option too.

I’m all ears if anyone has suggestions on what might work best since this thing is quickly becoming a full blown R&D project.

[quote=“Mattrebuild” post=86878]I have been looking at the design of the Purple beds and I wish I could find someone with a used one that would let me experiment with that purple gel grid layer as well as their super flexible ticking (if Purple sold a mattress topper that would be ideal, but they don’t…at least yet). I also noted that Purple even sells special stretchy sheets and mattress protectors which some people have commented that it does make a difference. If Purple is THE most conforming bed and they feel it’s important to carry this stretchiness through all their layers, it really makes me think that maybe the upper layers (pillow top) on my bed are stopping it from conforming too. I also considered changing the upper comfort layer to a heavy duty memory foam (in either 4lb or 5lb versions) or possibly HQ polyfoam but I sleep so hot already I’d be very concerned about going that route. I also have not tried different ILD talalay latex layers (I have a very soft 2" talalay toper but not currently using it since it takes almost nothing to compress it) so that could be an option too. Obviously it gets very expensive to try lots of talalay latex combos since up in Canada it’s hard to return stuff to the US right now so I’d like to see if I can narrow down exactly what’s going on and find a targeted solution to the problem. I even looked at buying a body pressure monitoring system so I could visualize the problem but unless you are in the business of selling mattresses the prices are out of this world.

So does anyone know where to buy the stretchy knit mattress ticking you see on all the new mattresses (Purple, Tempurpedic, etc)? [/quote]

You can purchase a zippered mattress cover directly from purple, just tell them which one you want. I have bought the purple hybrid premier (.4) cover from them. It was $181 in the twin xl size and it fits a 13" thick mattress. You could get the original 9", purple hybrid 11", hybrid premier (.3) 12".

Intellibed makes a topper which is made by edizone llc which is owned by purple so purple sort of does make a topper. I have it, it was $762 but this was the older cal king topper without the 1" serene foam on top. I didnt want the foam on top to maximize breathability. I cut it down w/an electric knife to fit my twin xl bc I didn’t all the polyfoam that surrounds the grid. The polyfoam does serve a purpose though it gives the topper edge support. That’s why I left a little on both sides. I’ve been reading up on serene foam & it’s supposed to be more open cell than regular polyfoam & more breathable so maybe the new style “luxury toppers” from intellibed don’t sleep too hot. I know the new version in twin xl is $699+.

If you want to experiment with the purple grid from purple mattresses you can find many trial returns on eBay for a fraction of the cost of a new one. I decided I wasn’t comfortable buying used bedding so I bought 3 new ones (two hybrid. 2’s) and one original. You can pull the grid out of a brand new one quite easily & experiment with it.

The intellibed topper is phone order only btw, it’s not listed on thier website. Just know that unless you buy a bigger size than you need and cut it down there will be a lot of foam surrounding the grid. Its 12" at both head and feet and 6" on both sides.