Mattress durability guidelines ... how long will a mattress last

Determining Mattress Durability

One of the most frequently asked questions when consumers are buying a new mattress is “how long will this mattress last” and even though this is one of the most important parts of the value of a mattress purchase there are very few sources of information that will provide a reliable answer to this question.

When you sleep on a mattress the upper layers will compress and deflect more than the deeper layers or components partly because the upper layers are usually made to be softer than the deeper transition and support layers or components of a mattress (and firmness/softness is also a factor in the durability of a material) and partly because they are closer to the sleeping surface and subject to direct compression without any of the layers above them absorbing some of the compression forces first. It’s this constant compression and deflection of the materials and components in the upper layers of a mattress that leads to changes in firmness or thickness which affects comfort, pressure relief, and the ability of the materials and components to support the weight of the body with the spine in its natural alignment.

Most materials and components will become softer as they break down over time (especially under the heavier parts of the body such as the hips/pelvis) while fiber materials will compress and pack down and become firmer and less “fluffy” over time. This is why the durability of the upper comfort and transition layers (the top 3" to 6" of the mattress) are especially important when you are assessing the durability and useful life of the mattress as a whole because they will usually be the weakest link in the mattress in terms of durability and the materials and components that are closer to the bottom of a mattress (the support core of the mattress) won’t normally be the weakest link in the mattress.

Durability will also be affected by the body type of the person that sleeps on it because higher body weights (or more specifically a higher BMI) will compress the layers in a mattress more deeply than lighter body types (or a lower BMI) so they will generally need more durable and firmer materials and components in the upper layers than those that are in lower weight ranges for the mattress to maintain its comfort and support for a similar length of time.

There are also many reasons such as health conditions, age, flexibility, or just normal differences between people that some people may be closer to the “princess and the pea” end of the range and are more sensitive to changes in the mattress than those that are closer to the “I can sleep on anything” end of the range that may continue to sleep well on a mattress that more sensitive people would no longer sleep well on and would need to replace.

If a mattress is close to the edge of the comfort/support range that would be too soft for a specific person when it is new then even relatively small changes in firmness may be enough to take them outside of the comfort/support range that would be suitable for them as well and the useful life of the mattress would likely be much less than a mattress that was more in the middle of a suitable comfort/support range for that person (see post #2 here)

Important information about mattress reviews and warranties

A Note About Mattress Warranties

It’s also important to understand that mattress warranties have little to nothing to do with durability. Warranties only cover defects in a mattress which are generally defined as visible impressions that are more than a specified amount when there is no weight on the mattress (normally from .75" to 2") and don’t cover changes in the firmness of the materials and the loss of comfort and support which is the biggest reason that you will need to replace a mattress.

A Note About Mattress Reviews

In other words, because of all the many variables involved that can affect how long a mattress will maintain its comfort and support relative to any specific person, the most meaningful definition of durability is:

“Assuming that you sleep well on a mattress when it’s new … durability is the length of time you continue to sleep well on a mattress before changes in the materials and components in the mattress caused by changes in firmness or the normal wear and tear or breakdown of the materials over time lead to a loss of comfort and support to the degree that you no longer sleep “well enough” on a mattress and decide to replace it.”

Assessing mattress durability and quality

While there is no way to specifically quantify or predict how long any mattress will maintain it’s comfort and/or support for any particular person for certain or how long it will take before they cross the thresholds between sleeping well on a mattress to sleeping “OK” to tolerating a mattress to finally deciding to replace it because it is no longer suitable or comfortable for them (because this is the only real measure of durability or the useful life of a mattress that really matters) and because there are too many unknowns and variables involved that are unique to each person … if you have confirmed that it meets the minimum quality/durability specifications relative to your BMI that are suggested in these guidelines then it would be reasonable to expect a useful lifetime in the range of 7 - 10 years and with higher quality and more durable materials than the minimum guidelines suggested in this article like latex or higher density memory foam or polyfoam (in the upper layers especially) it would likely be in the higher end of the range or even longer and the chances that you would have additional “bonus time” beyond that would be higher as well.

In order to make a reasonable assessment of the durability of a mattress and bearing in mind that because of all the many variables involved that no set of guidelines will be 100% accurate … and to greatly shift the odds of buying a mattress that will maintain its comfort and support for many years in your favor … this is how to assess the durability and useful life of a mattress based on the materials and components inside it regardless of how long the mattress has been available for sale or the name of the manufacturer on the label.

Step 1. Calculate Your BMI

Calculate your BMI or Body Mass Index. BMI is based on your height and weight and you can use one of many online BMI calculators to find out your BMI.

BMI Calculator for Adults, Children, and Teens
BMI Calculator for Women ~ tailored to women’s needs and biology. Measures things that older tools miss out on.
NHI BMI Calculator (more general)

Step 2. Become Familiar with the Mattress Components and Materials

Find out the information that you need to know about the materials and components in a mattress you are considering listed in order from the top down or the bottom up so you can make sure they add up to the total thickness of the mattress and nothing is “missing” (see this mattress specifications article which you can print and take to the store). Most retailers or manufacturers that are knowledgeable about mattress materials and components and understand the importance of using more durable materials and components in a mattress will be happy to provide you with this information because it will differentiate their mattresses from the majority of mattresses in the industry that use less durable materials. If for any reason a retailer or manufacturer is either unwilling or unable to provide you with the specific information that you need to identify any lower quality materials or weak links in the mattress then I would assume that it contains lower quality and less durable materials and I would pass the mattress by because in terms of durability it would be a risky purchase. Many mattresses use foam or fiber materials that are quilted to the cover that can soften the “hand feel” or surface feel of the mattress. The quilting process will compress the quilting materials and improve their durability so as long as there are no other lower-quality or unknown quality materials in the upper layers of the mattress and the quilting material is “about an inch or so or less” (in practical terms I would use 1.5" as a maximum in a quilting layer) then the quilting layer won’t have a meaningful effect on the durability or useful life of the mattress so it’s not necessary to find out any additional information other than the type of material and the thickness of the quilting layer. If there is a lower quality or “unknown quality” material in the upper layers of a mattress other than the quilting layer and there are no other lower-quality or unknown quality materials in the upper layers of the mattress (including any quilting layers) then as long as it’s only an inch or so or less then it also wouldn’t have a meaningful effect on the durability or useful life of the mattress so once again it wouldn’t be necessary to find out any additional information other than the type of material and the thickness of the layer. There are many different names that are used in the industry for the same type of material so here is a list of the most common materials that are used in mattresses so you can identify the type of materials and components in the mattress regardless of the name that any specific manufacturer may use.

Materials and components that can have a significant effect on the durability or useful life of a mattress depending on their quality/density or thickness:

  • Polyurethane foam (often called polyfoam)
  • Memory foam (or gel memory foam) Natural fiber batting (cotton, wool, silk, horsehair)
  • Semi-synthetic fiber batting (rayon made from bamboo or other cellulosic materials or PLA made from corn starch, tapioca roots, or sugarcane)
  • Synthetic fiber batting (generally polyester fibers)
  • Firm densified polyester fiber

Materials and components that are all high-quality materials that are very unlikely to reduce the durability or useful life of a mattress:

  • Latex foam (either Dunlop or Talalay made with natural rubber or synthetic rubber or a combination of both)
  • Soft solid gel layers (where the gel isn’t mixed inside a foam material)
  • Buckling column gel
  • Rubberized coir
  • Microcoils or mini coils (thinner versions of pocket coils that are used in comfort layers instead of the support core in a mattress)
  • Innersprings (Bonnell coils, Offset coils, Continuous coils, or Pocket coils used as the support core of a mattress)

Step 3. Identify the Weak Links

Once you know the type and thickness of all the layers and components in a mattress then you can identify whether the mattress has any lower quality materials or weak links that can compromise the durability and the useful life of the mattress by comparing them to the following guidelines.

Polyurethane foam (often called polyfoam): If your mattress is one-sided then I would make sure that the density of any polyfoam is at least 1.8 lb per cubic foot or higher. If the mattress is two-sided then I would use a minimum foam density of 1.5 lbs per cubic foot or higher.

Memory foam (or gel memory foam): If your mattress is one-sided then I would make sure that any memory foam is at least 4 lb per cubic foot. If the mattress is two-sided then I would use a minimum density of 3 lbs per cubic foot.

Natural, Semi-Synthetic, or Synthetic fibers: Fiber materials are usually used as a quilting material in the cover and will tend to pack down and form impressions to some degree over time (although these will also tend to even out as you sleep in different parts of the mattress) so I would tend to make sure that any fiber layers are only “about an inch or so or less” (again in practical terms I would use 1.5") to minimize any impressions in the mattress to a level that won’t have a meaningful effect on the comfort and support of the mattress. Firm densified polyester fiber: This is often used as a foam substitute because it is even less costly than polyfoam (which in turn is less costly than specialty foams such as memory foam or latex) and you will generally find it in low-budget mattresses or in institutional mattresses where cost is a more important consideration than durability. I would avoid any mattress that uses more than an inch of this material in the upper layers but it can sometimes be found as a stabilization layer in the bottom of a mattress under an innerspring support core where it will have much less effect on the durability or useful life of the mattress and would be appropriate as a “cost/durability” compromise" for a mattress that is in a lower budget range. All the other materials and components on the list: These are all durable materials and components that wouldn’t be a weak link that would compromise the durability or useful life of a mattress.

Other factors that can affect the durability and useful life of a mattress.

Firmer materials will tend to compress less and last longer than softer versions of the same material so if you are choosing between two mattresses that are both a suitable choice in terms of comfort, firmness, and PPP and one of them is slightly firmer than the other and there are no other significant differences between them that would affect Durability then I would choose the one that is slightly firmer.

Foam or fiber that is quilted to a cover will be compressed by the quilting process and would be more durable than the same material that isn’t quilted to a cover.

Inner tufting is a method of construction that secures the layers and components in a mattress together by compressing the mattress and using a cord or tape that goes right through all the layers of a mattress at regular intervals and is secured or anchored on either side with some kind of padded button or felt washer. It pre-compresses and holds all the layers and materials together and prevents shifting and gives the product the unique tufted look, will create a firmer mattress, and will greatly increase the durability of a mattress even if it uses materials that would otherwise be a weak link and reduce the durability or useful life of the mattress if they weren’t tufted.

Deeper layers or components are less subject to compression forces than layers that are closer to the surface so if you need to make any compromises in the quality and durability of the materials in a mattress because of a restricted budget then lower quality and less durable materials that are deeper in the mattress would have less effect on the durability and useful life of a mattress and be less risky than the same layers that are closer to the sleeping surface

Convoluted layers are less durable than a solid layer of the same material so if there are convoluted foam layers in the upper layers of a mattress and the material is also at the minimum Foam Density range for your BMI then it could have some effect on the durability and useful life of the mattress and I would lower your expectations slightly. I would also make sure that there isn’t more than one convoluted layer. If the convoluted materials are higher quality and more durable than the minimum guidelines for your BMI then it wouldn’t be an issue.

Assuming that you flip and rotate it on a regular basis (see post #2 about flippable mattresses here) … a two-sided mattress will be more durable than a one-sided mattress that uses the same comfort layers and components on only one side of the mattress. There is also more about the pros and cons in post #3 about one-sided vs two-sided mattresses here.

Some mattresses (most commonly latex mattresses) have individual loose layers and a zip cover where each layer can be removed and replaced. Some local manufacturers will also open up the cover and replace individual layers in a mattress. Because a mattress will normally soften and break down from the top down this can be a benefit in terms of durability because a single layer that has softened before the other layers and components in a mattress (usually the upper layer of a mattress) can be replaced without having to replace the entire mattress. A sleeping system that has a mattress/topper combination would have similar benefits that allows you to replace the topper without replacing the entire mattress.

Many innersprings that have a lower coil count and are linked with helical coils (rather than having the coils inside a fabric pocket) will need an insulator above the coils to even out the feel of the innersprings and make sure that the layers above the innerspring don’t compress and pocket into the innersprings which can lead to a mattress that feels lumpy. These are usually some type of non-woven material such as densified or bonded polyester or cotton fibers or resinated textile clippings or coconut coir or a flexible mesh material and without this layer a mattress will lose it’s comfort and support much more quickly as the padding compresses into the coils. Mattresses that use pocket coils with a higher coil count that are surrounded by a fabric don’t generally need an insulator (although some may still have one) to prevent the padding materials from pocketing into the coils.

Many innerspring mattresses have an edge support system to create a firmer edge for those that tend to sleep with most of their weight concentrated on the outer few inches of the mattress to prevent roll off, make it easier to get in and out of the mattress, or for those that often sit on the side of their mattress. One of the methods that is commonly used for this is a polyfoam surround which glues a firmer polyfoam layer on the 4 sides and bottom of the innerspring and if you are one of those that sleep on the edge or sit on the side of your mattress on a regular basis then I would use the minimum polyfoam guidelines for your BMI for the foam surround as well.

If the materials or components in a mattress are sourced in Asia or China and are compressed during shipping or storage in a warehouse for more than a few weeks then the durability of the materials would be more uncertain because longer term compression can reduce the durability of the materials or components in the mattress and there would be a higher chance of experiencing durability issues over time (see post #6 about mattress compression and durability here).

While I would want to know the specifics of an innerspring in a mattress to be able to make more apples to apples comparisons between mattresses and I would want to know the thickness of the innerspring so you can add up all the layers and components in a mattress to make sure that they add up to the total thickness of the mattress and confirm that you aren’t missing any layers … more detailed information about an innerspring isn’t usually that important in terms of durability because innersprings aren’t normally the weakest link of a mattress and will generally last longer than the padding layers above the innerspring. For those that want more information about the pros and cons of different types of innersprings for reasons other than durability, there is more information in this article about innersprings and in post #10 about latex here.

There are also other variables that can affect the durability and useful life of a material such as the specific chemical formulation of foam material, the cell structure of the foam, or some other more “arcane” and less significant factors but in practical terms, these aren’t as relevant or important as the other variables that are discussed in this article which will be enough to make sure that the odds of buying a durable mattress that will last you for many years are very high.

While it’s not a durability issue … I would also make sure that the foam materials in your mattress have a reliable safety certification as well so that you can have some confidence that any harmful substances or VOCs are below the testing limits for the certification which for most people would be “safe enough” (see post #2 with information about reliable safety certifications here).

It’s always more realistic to think of about 10 years as a maximum reasonable expectation for any mattress no matter what the quality or durability of the materials and then treat any additional time after that as “bonus time” because after about 10 years the limiting factor in the useful life of a mattress will often be the changing needs and preferences of the person sleeping on the mattress and even if a mattress is still in relatively good condition after a decade … a mattress that was suitable for someone 10 years earlier may not be the best “match” any longer.

Having said that … if a mattress only uses the highest quality and most durable materials and for people whose needs and preferences or physical condition or body type haven’t changed much over 10 years then “bonus time” or even “extended bonus time” with more durable materials such as latex, higher density memory foam or polyfoam, natural fibers, or other high quality and more durable materials that soften, compress, or break down much more slowly is much more likely and you will find some people who have slept well on some of the most durable mattresses and materials for several decades but these are the much more the exception than the rule.

I love bonnell coils mattresses breathability but I’m concerned about their durability. All I can find is mattresses with an insulating synthetic felt and a foam layer (in Italy at least), like this
How durable is the felt layer? And are there hybrid alternatives without the foam (non Pocket coils)?
If the felt is more durable than the foam layer, I might buy a mattress without the foam layer and add a latex topping, is it a bad idea?

Hi Arzack,

Welcome to the Mattress Forum! :slight_smile:

There are some very durable Bonnell spring units available. Like any spring unit, it would depend upon such things as the actual design, profile, turns, gauge of steel, tempering and number of springs.

This depends upon the thickness, bonding and density of the felt layer. Generally, a felt (insulator) pad is made from resin bonded recycled fabric trimmings for weight balancing, evening out the feel over lower spring counts, minimizing the feel of the coils, and preventing materials from compacting into the innerspring unit.

I’m not sure what you’re asking here. A hybrid mattress is meant to describe a mattress using a pocketed spring unit with various foam layers on top, usually polyfoam, memory foam or sometimes latex. I’m not aware of a mattress made using just a Bonnell spring unit and a felt pad on top, although I guess there certainly could be one produced somewhere. Your best bet for something like that would be from a local small mattress manufacturer who could customize an order for you, or form purchasing individual components.

A high quality felt pad can be quite durable, but it ultimately would depend upon the use within a completed sleep system. If you were considering using latex on top of a Bonnell spring unit, a felt pad certainly would be desirable, as you’d want a flatter surface so as to not feel the springs through the latex.


Hello. I have read this and the mattress specs article, but I am still unclear: What are the best measurements to look for when shopping for a latex hybrid mattress? In other words, how thick should the various layers be? Are there any components which should be considered red flags? I am trying to formulate a checklist to rule mattress in/out. Thanks so much.

Hi nascarnole,

Regarding the latex in a latex hybrid mattress, as mentioned in the mattress durability guidelines listed at the beginning of this thread, any latex (Dunlop or Talalay – synthetic, blended or natural), would be considered a high quality material and unlikely to reduce the useful life of a hybrid mattress.

Both Dunlop and Talalay have their own unique comfort characteristics, and the differences between them are summarized in post #6 here. The preference of choosing one type over the other would be a personal, and not a quality, choice, and the ability to be able to test something similar in person (if ordering online) would be the best way to determine if you had an affinity for one version of the latex versus another.

Regarding the innerspring support unit, this would most often be some version of a pocketed spring unit in a latex hybrid mattress, and again this usually isn’t the “weak link” within a mattress. Some manufacturers will offer a few different pocketed spring options (often something adding zoning or perhaps a firmer spring unit) that they might recommend for different sleeping posture, BMIs or personal preferences.

The best advice I can provide when you can’t test a mattress in person is always a more detailed phone conversation with a knowledgeable and experienced retailer or manufacturer that has your best interests at heart and who can help “talk you through” the specifics of their mattresses and the properties and “feel” of the different latex materials and spring units and the options they have available that may be the best “match” for you based on the information you provide them, any local testing you have done or mattresses you have slept on and liked or other mattresses you are considering that they are familiar with, and the “averages” of other customers that are similar to you. They will know more about “matching” their specific mattress designs, options, and firmness levels to different body types, sleeping positions, and preferences (or to other mattresses that they are familiar with) than anyone else.

As for thickness, the thickness of a mattress is just a side effect of the design and by itself isn’t particularly meaningful because whether a thicker or thinner mattress would be better or worse for any particular person will depend on the specifics of the materials (type, firmness, etc.) and on all the other layers in the mattress. Thickness is only one of many specs that are used to make different mattresses that perform and feel differently and that makes a mattress suitable for one person and not another. There is more about the effect of thickness in post #14 here. Regardless of how thick or thin a mattress may be, the most important part of the “value” of a mattress is how suitable it is “as a whole” for your particular body type, sleeping positions, and preferences in terms of PPP (Posture and alignment, Pressure relief, and Personal preferences) regardless of how thick it may be.

I hope that helps makes things a bit easier to understand.


So, if my husband has a BMI that is 34 and he is a back sleeper and my BMI is 19 and I am a side sleeper, I assume I go with materials best for him?
I have been reading for hours and I am still so confused. I do believe I am to the point of overthinking this purchase. However, our current bed situation is so bad and has been for so long I don’t want to make the same mistake again!

Hey amyvols93,

Something that is suitable for someone petite such as yourself and being a side sleeper generally wouldn’t provide enough support for someone of a higher BMI such as your husband, so you may wish to defer to something appropriate for his BMI and then perhaps using a topper on your side of the mattress (if necessary) or perhaps consider a split mattress configuration (here’s a sample from SleepEZ). Defer toward alignment/support first, surface comfort second.

Jeff Scheuer, The Beducator
Mattress To Go

With a really tight budget it’s impossible to just “choose another”. There’s a bit of a necessity to go with something that is within budget even if the company won’t expose the specifics of materials used. Because of that I’m wondering if someone could make an educated guess on what the quality of certain mattresses are or how well they’d hold up for someone with >30 BMI.


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Or if you could recommend other Queen size beds that won’t get hot and should hold up well for this BMI within a budget of $400 max I’d appreciate that.

Related to this, are there mattress types that avoid “middle dip” longer than others? My husband and I bought a traditional pillow top / spring mattress about five years ago and picked one that was actually firmer than we liked, specifically because we thought the firmer material would hold up longer over time. It’s not been the case though - the mattress now dips in the middle to the point where it causes back pain for one of us (we can rotate the mattress so the worst of the dip is on one side and thus share the pain a bit).

Reading here I see how our thinking was flawed by avoiding the material we liked and thinking firm equates with durable, but I’m worried about how to avoid this “middle dip” again since all our mattresses seem to wear out that way first. Would a split mattress help stave off the “middle dip” problem better? Or are we doomed because we end up cuddling too much in the middle? (I married a living furnace so usually this only happens in winter). My husband is 6’4" and only 150 lbs whereas I am 5’4" and 175, so our BMI’s aren’t really close either (although the side that has the worst part of the dip was actually his).

I was thinking about a latex or hybrid mattress if we try one out and like it, and also possibly getting a multi layer solution where we can swap the top layer as described above, that sounds lovely. Thank you for this thread of ideas!

I’ve contacted a handful of companies regarding mattresses. They’re all “budget companies”. Some companies didn’t really reply and others didn’t pay attention to what I said (they seemingly can’t comprehend English) and gave me a completely irrelevant answer. Others gave a simple response which didn’t really answer the question.

One company has been pretty responsive and I’ve been having a back and forth with them. They suggested based on my needs two mattresses that I was actually already considering.

I asked them various questions including information on the foam. They tried to resist at first but because of the wording they chose to use I was able to ask them to tell me the specifics as per what I was told by their agent.

Since they don’t normally give the information away I think it’s only fair to respect that they don’t want it shared, even though I disagree with it in general. Consumers have the option to grill the company just like I have in order to get this information for themselves. For that reason, I’m being careful not to expose the company’s brand name.

With that said, not only is this company doing a good job actually speaking English and following up with my concerns, but they’re doing it the best out of any of the companies who I’ve contacted so far. They did answer the question on their foam(s).

They told me 4.4 lbs per cubic foot and 18 ILD. I asked them which foam they’re referring to and was told they’re talking about the top-most layer (excluding quilt of course), the latex foam. The thing is, they have Latex, Gel memory and other foams.

UPDATE: They got back to me with the specs on all other materials. All OTHER foams are 1.8 pounds per cubic feet in density. So 4.4 lbs/cubic feet for the latex foam and 1.8 lbs/cubic feet for the gel memory foam and other foams.

For one of the beds I’m considering it’s a 10" with 5.5" springs, 1.5" gel memory foam, 1" latex foam and 2" of other foam. It also has edge support foam.

I was told that they don’t have the information on-hand regarding the specs on the other foams, only the latex. They said they would get back to me on that (along with another question I had related to the return policy).

So I guess for one my point of this reply is to encourage people to pressure companies. Be polite but be firm and pay close attention to the wording you use and the wording they use so you can catch them in a logic loop if they deny a request and sort of “pressure” them into telling you information.

My second reason is I’m hoping with this information someone might be able to make some presumptions based on the data I DO have about the quality and worthiness of the bed for someone of >30 BMI. Keep in mind I have a tight budget constraint here along with a 10 year old, used when I got it, 6" innerspring with sags and springs poking through the mattress on both sides.

Hi mattress310.

Welcome to our Mattress Forum! :slight_smile:

Thank you for sharing your shopping experience and for your caution and “encouragement” to pressure companies to disclose the materials used within their mattresses. I completely agree that a mattress is only as good as the quality of the materials inside it regardless of the name of the manufacturer. More than anything … this site promotes transparency and the ability of consumers to find out information that validates the claims that are being made about a mattress that they can verify for themselves. Smaller mattress manufacturers and better retailers and sleep shops in general tend to be much more open and transparent about the materials they use than the largest manufacturers … and for those that do this their quality and value is self-evident to consumers that have learned some basic information about the quality of foams and other materials.

Along with the newer “bed in a box” explosion …the drive for corporate profit at the expense of quality is what drives the industry even though there are literally dozens of smaller manufacturers who continue to build higher quality mattresses that cost less than their competition’s lower quality and less durable products. Smaller manufacturers and like-minded retailers that maintain quality standeards offering better value products control so little of the market that they remain mostly hidden under the wave of advertising and marketing stories. Most consumers literally don’t know that they exist, even if they are within the same city or general area … they are buried or lower in the search engine results and … even if they did come to consumer’s awareness … most of them tend to believe that the “brand names”, reviews, and the “stories” that they hear advertised are somehow better than a local alternative who are completely transparent about the materials they use and very often take the time to educate and inform the consumer. This is a big part of the reason why so many smaller manufacturers have disappeared over the last decade.

There are more detailed comments about some of these unfortunate trends in the industry towards lower quality materials and mattresses in post #3 here and in post #12 here and in post #404 here.

Hopefully, your post will inform others and add a deeper perspective to the mattress shopping process in general.


I am following up on this question rather than answering it. I am wondering about 2 things mentioned in Bigspoon’s post.

Thing #1: middle dip: In my experience when a mattress wears out it gets this “middle dip” you speak of where the middle sags. Since I am a stomach sleeper a sagging middle tends to overextend my low back and I wake up in a lot of pain. A really soft mattress also seems to cause this problem. So I am looking for a firmer mattress that is durable (won’t start to sag in the middle).

Thing 2: “Split King” My significant other prefers a very soft mattress. So I was looking for a solution where one side can be firm, and one side can be soft. Particularly though, I would like one that has a continuous top layer (so there is no gap in the middle). When I have done a Google search for “split king” most of the mattresses I see look like 2 twins side-by-side with a gap in the middle of them. I was hoping to find a bed that looks like a continuous mattress. I found the Sleeptek Kama Flex Lift ($5,039) which is the concept I am looking for but it is out of my price range. Any help on anyone else who sells a mattress of this style for a lower price would be appreciated!

Hi TXScout2.

Welcome to our Mattress Forum! :slight_smile:

[quote]Thing 2: “Split King” My significant other prefers a very soft mattress. So I was looking for a solution where one side can be firm, and one side can be soft. Particularly though, I would like one that has a continuous top layer (so there is no gap in the middle). When I have done a Google search for “split king” most of the mattresses I see look like 2 twins side-by-side with a gap in the middle of them. I was hoping to find a bed that looks like a continuous mattress. I found the Sleeptek Kama Flex Lift ($5,039) which is the concept I am looking for but it is out of my price range. Any help on anyone else who sells a mattress of this style for a lower price would be appreciated!

SleepTech Kama Flex is a 10” all latex mattress using 2” + 4" + 4" latex layers with a top 2” comfort layer being a continuous “Float layer”. The split left/right configuration would certainly prove useful in your situation as it can accommodate both a stomach sleeper and a side sleeper partner preferring plush comfort options. As this may present a few special challenges I’d recommend that you review the guidelines in this [url=Your sleeping style, preferences, and statistics - Your sleep positions - The Mattress Underground] Sleep Positions Article [url] so that you avoid hyperextension in a swayback position that can cause back issues.

While you can certainly find better value mattresses with continuous/float layer on top of split layers, I’d make sure to you to reach out to the manufacturer/retailer of any mattress you are considering and ask for their guidance because of the large variation needed between the comfort configuration on each side of the mattress that you and your SO may require. Depending on your body type, weight and other personal specifications as a stomach sleeper you’d certainly need a firmer layering configuration which will not be suitable for someone requiring a very plush comfort option.

At a quick glance here is a listing (in alphabetical order) of some of our Trusted Members that have split king configuration options. You can contact them either directly or through the Ask An Expert section of the site to get guidance.

[indent]Arizona Premium Mattress here can guide you to a similar mattress of a DIY build.
Arizona Sleep EZ has 2 to 4 layer configurable natural mattress here and organic here
Flexus Comfort has an organic line here and a Natural here with different mattress thickness split configuration options.
FloBeds has also split & zoning configuration options here
Foam Sweet Foam’s Urban Green is also offered with split/side-by-side configurations. They recommend using 2" or 3" continuous top layer and even the support layer depending on the case, with the split applied to the middle layer and depending on the firmness differential to the bottom layer as well
MFC ~ for Canadian consumers ~ carry Presto customizable organic latex mattress with split/side-by-side configurations which also can be ordered with or without both 2" or 3" continuous top layer.
Sleeping Organic also has both organic & natural versions here side by side configuration
Urban Natural has Savvy Rest’s Serenity here with side by side customization[/indent]

I hope this gives you a good start…let us know if you have additional questions.


Not sure if this is the right place to ask, but I’m really drawn to the new Sleepovation mattress (700 tiny mattresses), but am concerned about durability. With a product this new, is there any real way to tell?
I just sold my Essentia mattress as it’s been too firm. I’m 5’ and about 130. By the time I get the sleepovation into canada I’ll be in for a couple thousand, but their “science” aka advertising really appeals to me.
thanks for the great site - there’s a ton of information here :slight_smile:

Hi rjtj.

I moved your post to a new thread to open the topic to any questions about the product. It took me a while to get to it as it required a bit more research as the company and product are fairly new.

Welcome to our Mattress Forum and congratulations on your mattress purchase! :slight_smile:

SleepOvation mattress was launched Sept 2017 and funded through a Kickstarter campaign. Setting aside the gimmick video on their website, the cushion pocket spring design of the mattress called “Tiny Mattress technology” has some interesting features. The 3" top layer of the mattress consists roughly of 700 foam rectangular prisms 2 ¼” x 2 ¼” x 3" encased in a fabric pocket. The site states that the foam is optimized high-density but they do not state the density of the foam which is the single main factor in assessing the durability of the mattress. While the design itself may work for some sleepers, especially side sleepers, I’d regard the lack of transparency of foam density, coil gauge, etc as a red flag despite any big words used to describe this mattress and endorsements they may have. There is some information on their site regarding their construction that appears to be incorrect here (See attached screenshot). Generally, the mattress appears to be fairly soft, with the cushion pocket spring ability to adapt to the body shape, and a design that allows for air to circulate.

To add to the durability concerns, a great deal will also depend on the quality of the assembly process that attaches the 2 layers of pocketed cushions to the pocketed coils. Ultimately the company offers a 10-year warranty but I’d take note that the refund policy will cost you $180 (USD) if you opt to return it in the 100 day period here :

From SleepOvation return policy

As you’ve already made the purchase… I’d be interested to find how it works out for you once you have a chance to sleep on it for a while and let us know how you are liking your new mattress.


I was going to ask about this mattress too! I have pressure points that nmeed to be adddressed so this appeals to me. At the same time, I question the durability and the ability to move around on this mattress! I see this thread is from 2020. How are you doing with the mattress?

BBB gave SleepOvation a C+ rating because it failed to respond to 1 customer complaint. Average customer reviews is ONE STA. Here are the complaints from the BBB website:

  • Review from

  • Debra M.

  • 1 star

  • 01/02/2022

  • They agreed to replace our mattress under their warranty. However, they picked up the defective mattress on Dec 20, 2021. But, we still don’t have a replacement mattress on January 2, 2022. We have no other bed. We told them and they still have not shipped the replacement mattress. There is no excuse for taking the defected bed before shipping the replacement. I have slept in a recliner since Dec 20th.

  • Review from

  • Whitney B

  • 1 star

  • 07/23/2021

  • ************** purchased for ******* March 2020; we did like it for 6months then noticed the sagging & dug further to figure out why a brand new product was already wearing out-the innerlayer that encompasses every tiny mattress(bet there isn’t really 700 of them lol) is the same fabric type material that’s used in shipping. Like the paperfeel-thin see through stuff that would be wrapped around fragile items for sending through the mail. No wonder now there’s a 2ft divot from hip to ankle area on the right section of our mattress! The left side is doing the exact same thing. Contacted customer service with the 10 warranty thing as we were using it like normal & no answer back…only crickets chirping. Email & live chat support. Our local furniture company offers better deal than that place at 50% less that *******. Scam artist business this place is!!

  • Review from

  • Kwaku1331

  • 1 star

  • 02/20/2021

  • I bought this mattress back in Nov 2019. I purchased a king size to upgrade from my queen size bed. A friend recommended it because I sleep hot and this bed is supposed to be cooler than the memory foam mattress and the sleep by number beds we currently had. We placed the order and 16 days later we received the mattress. We had purchased and setup a platform base for the mattress, once we laid the mattress on the platform we noticed it was quite smaller than the base, we then put on the sheets, also baggy but we didn’t think too much at first, it was much bigger than our current bed after all. The mattress was great, so great we recommended it to another friend and they purchased one as well. They got the same size as their current mattress and they said the sleepovation was smaller than their previous mattress, which made me realize maybe our mattress was also smaller than normal king size bed. This is where the problem started, about a month or 2 after the 100 day trial the mattress started to sag really badly where I lay and I started having severe back pain. I reached out to customer service to see if I could return the mattress for a refund or at least get a replacement and was told I needed to send a video showing all these different things for a replacement to be sent. Quite honestly I want a refund so I can purchase a better quality mattress, not get a replacement that will last me less than a year. Since I did not feel like jumping through hoops for a replacement without hope of a refund I ended up buying a $400 mattress topper to basically reinforce the bed to where I can somewhat comfortably sleep on it, but I am back to sleeping on memory foam which is much less comfortable than the $350 mattress I bought at Costco for my spare room. Also my friend who recommended the bed is having the same sag issue now. So we paid a boat load of money for a mattress that is not true to size and sags like a hammock with no recourse to get my money back. I recommend to avoid at all costs!

  • Review from

  • Liana N.

  • 1 star

  • 05/19/2020

  • We are so upset with our experience with Sleepovation :frowning: We were finally able to afford some pillows that could possibly help with our severe back pain, and that was only because of the coronavirus stimulus checks we received. We were so excited to purchase from Sleepovation because the pillows looked like they could really help us with our pain and they had a lot of supposed endorsements from “respected” doctors and athletes. Well, we opened the pillow boxes immediately upon receiving them and they were all rolled up and compressed. We let them sit for several hours and they didn’t really rise much at all, and one was taller than other. No big deal! We used them that night and it was not what we expected at all. Let me start by saying, nobody goes in buying a mattress or pillow planning to return it, but their advertising about the “100 NIGHT GUARANTEE” all over the place on their website makes you feel better about your purchase and to not worry (in the back of your head), in case something really does go wrong. Honest people don’t read return policies before purchases!! With that being said, the pillows were an awful experience for both myself and my husband. First, the pillow is not supportive of your head or shoulders, whatsoever. Your head lays at an angle, not sinking at all into the middle of the pillow. You have to set your neck and shoulder sandwiched around the pillow for any support at all, which in turn, puts pressure on your throat restricting air flow and making you feel like your choking because the pillow is so thin and not a supportive thickness at all. We both woke up with worse back pain than before we bought the pillows!..I have piriformis issues (hip), and my husband has bad back and shoulder issues. We have a pretty good mattress, but we were just looking for that extra support for our head to ease the pressure and pain of a misaligned posture at night. This pillow does not do what it is advertised to do, it does not look the same as the pictures, nor does it feel like it says it’s supposed to. I do not see any individual “pillows” in the pillow, nor do I feel that whatsoever. Now getting to the main reason for my review; of course we wanted to return the pillows after our bad experience, we tried 3 nights in a row with the pillows and feel worse than ever. Now in order to return, you have to email the company proof of receipt and you have to also pay return shipping, okay fine… not ideal, but we will do it. I get an email back saying that we can only return ONE PILLOW PER CUSTOMER back…Really? Well the “100 day money back guarantee” flashing all over the place did not mention that fine important detail…And nobody goes and looks at the fine print of a return policy because we never PLAN to return an item…Sleepovation also didn’t go out of their way to make sure you know you can only return one pillow either! (Deceitful company practice!) So the marketing scam was successful by Sleepovation, because they advertise all over the place the “100 night guarantee”, because who the hell would think to look and verify that BOTH pillows would be included in this guarantee??? If this was a company that was honest and not trying to scam people, they wouldn’t have such a ridiculous stipulation on only one pillow being able to be returned in their “100 night guarantee”. What a huge disappointment this company is! Go with another company if you don’t want to deal with hidden surprises that are absolutely unfair and deceitful! We don’t make much money at all and now we’re not able to purchase another pillow brand because Sleepovation won’t let us return both pillows that are faulty and did not perform as promised! Even with their “100 day guarantee”, and even with us having to pay return shipping! Stay far away and spend your hard earned money on an honest company product! AGAIN, an honest person with no intent on returning a product does not look at the fine details of a return policy! Shame on Sleepovation!!

Hi gregtames,

It’s unlikely that @rjtj has notifications turned on on this 3 year old post, so I’m quickly stepping in. Thanks for pasting those reviews, these customer comments only confirm the durability issues @Phoenix raised . I will say however, that BBB reviews are not as impartial as may appear. the BBB has been known in the past to be partial to their paid members, ‘scrubbing’ poor reviews for them, while leaving up bad reviews (even after satisfactorily being resolved) for non-members, so look at these reviews with informed, open eyes.

~ Basilio

That may be, but when I read such scary reviews I take them into consideration. I am not surprised at failure of this mattress, when the comfort layers are divided up into such small pieces. How can that provide stability for an extended period of time?

There are some alluring innovations in mattress construction these days. Even with all the advice on Mattress Underground my head is spinning with information overload. I was shocked to find out how much a quality mattress can cost these days. It feels like walking a tightrope trying to make the right selection.